Jump to content

nabokovfan87

Members
  • Posts

    11,085
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Oh yes. This is about half the Amano's in my black cory tank. They care not and they will have their food. LOL.
  2. If you get smaller ones, they should do better. Bigger ones have a harder time hiding and are much more "gutsy".
  3. I don't know if the angels will leave the shrimp alone 😕 I think I have 4-5. I have std "anubias", Coffefolia, nangi, petite, nana petite, and I'm REALLY eyeballing some others I've seen because I want to do a low tech only anubias tank in the front room. Someone had posted a pretty big rock scape and they just looped anubias around, breathtakingly awesome for me. That new variety the co-op has looks pretty awesome and I nearly purchased it. I opted to wait, but tempting for sure. I equate a new Anubias to a new variety of coffee to try, LOL. I can't have too many and they are so easy to maintain. I really, really hope I continue to push back this algae in both tanks and the anubias recovers. I want to propogate more rhizomes and re-plant. remove the damaged parts.
  4. Poor guy. Feel better little dude.
  5. Yes. I was also running two heaters, couldn't keep the tank warm enough. I have new equipment now to handle the load, but it gets VERY COLD in the winter here and VERY HOT in the summer here. Agreed.
  6. Good point. What substrate is being used? Sounds good. I don't think there's any issue performing those daily WCs to get the ammonia down while we figure how to stabilize the cycle.
  7. I'd grab some quilting mesh and zip tie it over the top surface. Then you have what amounts to an UGF in form and function. For the uplift tube you could replace the corner elbows with: If you want to find some clear pipes, be sure to look up PC (computer) water cooling parts. They do sell acrylic, they sell glass, they sell a lot of different sizes as well. "Rigid Tubing" water cooling parts.
  8. I just use a paper towel and take it to the sink if I have a lot of muck to clean up. If it's "bad" I have a dish sponge I use that is fish only for hard surfaces like that. Cannot recommend it enough, have a sponge and a toothbrush that is fish only. I use them almost every cleaning now in my tanks.
  9. It happens very often where the HoB has water and the impeller will not spin at power on.
  10. If you can, please provide what filter you have specifically so I can look into how to upgrade it and better support bacteria long term.
  11. Could not imagine running a tank without Anubias. I enjoy that plant way too much now.
  12. I would answer this with a bit of a comparison. This is a 20H situation and specifically not a 20L situation. For me this means I want generally smaller, less active fish. Something that wants a lot of horizontal space I would try to avoid as well. I think you can do some corys, but I would automatically prefer any 20G tank with corys to be a 20L tank. Because of this, I think only the pygmy cories make any sense for this tank. I think a ram is a great bottom dwelling fish here. I think a chili rasbora or WCMM or other upper level nano type fish is going to be a nice bit to add. Something also to consider is that because this is a 20H and not a 20L you want to have stem plants, taller plants as a result. Whatever nano fish you choose to add to the list, I would hope that they like to interact with that type of a plant in some way. Midwater I think you have to go something like a CPD, neon tetra, rummynose tetra, something with extremely nice coloration but something that likes to feel protected. Again, I would discourage something that wants to dark across the tank.
  13. Light spectrum can also affect how plants grow. Green, Blue, and Red spectrums. There's a study highlighted in this video. https://youtu.be/eUGybNktqQg
  14. I would do 30-50% WC daily until you see no ammonia. There is a few things going on so let's try to narrow down what could be the cause. A. What is your filtration? How is it setup? B. What is the test results for your water from the tap? What is the test results for your water from the tap after it's been aerated for 24 hours with an air stone? C. What is your feeding regiment? For nitrates, here is a guide the Co-op has put together. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/water-changes
  15. Given the state and use of the tank, I'd always run carbon in it. It helps with a lot of things and you can fill the basket with both media and carbon. From the video, it also looks like you have an undergravel filter in the middle of the tank. I would verify the setup, probably tear it apart and deep clean it, then set it up again. On the UGF, I'd just remove the little carbon cartridge. It's not needed, especially if you're running it in the canister. If you want to remove the UGF, Probably a good idea to just replace it with a bubble wall. Move the heater to a position towards the spraybar / output on the canister to make sure it has adequate flow as well. PH is almost non-existent. You have no KH as well. Nitrates are high. If you can, please test ammonia. I would continue with water changes, slowly, but constantly to get the water parameters back up. Maybe 30%, every few days is a good way to handle it so the fish can slowly acclimate to new PH. I'd probably run the Med trio when you do have them stable, but that's a ways off. I would likely suggest salt as well help their slime coat recover and breathing/respiration while they are going through this stress. Frozen foods or high quality foods just to make sure they have strength and such. Edit: Given there's no KH. I'd run Crushed Coral and Carbon in the canister compartment. I would not add the Coral until you have the PH increased via water changes and you really know what's going on with the parameters from the tap. Bottom Tray: Foam (Coarse, Medium, Fine pad) 2-3 Tray: Media 4th Tray: Crushed Coral / Carbon
  16. FINALLY found them. http://www.selectaquatics.com/Customer Care Page X. montezumae.htm Not his, but an idea of their coloration:
  17. With amanos in there, I'd keep an eye on KH as well. Agreed. They also just might have run out of food, specifically calcium. I would make sure once a week you're feeding Hikari Crab Cuisine (They have other versions as well for shrimp) so that your amanos and snails can get what they need. Feed it a few hours after lights out.
  18. General behavior, not growing, not eating, lethargy, and just really not energetic. Some irritation on one of the fish trying to pass waste. I found this, might help. I've had them for over a year, and just never got a feeling like this one particular fish is doing well. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/fish-parasites I also have two clown plecos, one of them is potentially having issues as well. Generally I feed a lot of brine shrimp/spirulina and they are (these two fish in question) slightly bloated.
  19. I really want to buy some of his fish when I get a rack. Very cool stuff he has.
  20. If it's your first time, it will likely be less than you think. You're building a relationship with the store as well. Something Dean has said in his video was that if it was his first time, to give a good impression on the store he didn't ask for anything. Simply said, "let me know if they do well for you and then we can discuss more."
  21. About halfway through Cory talks about dewormers. I highly recommend checking it out. Some species are only available wild caught and depending where you get fish, you're going to have a shared filtration system. Best practice is to just deworm them using the method co-op describes in the video above. I have fish I brought in, did the trio and observed. The fish have only ever been in their own 29G tank. I didn't follow up with a second treatment (or the second type of dewormer) and I'm going through it again because I'm still not convinced they do have internal parasites. 😞
×
×
  • Create New...