nabokovfan87

It's unfortunate, but CAEs are commonly going to do that. I wish you the best resolving those issues. Tank looks good.

A lot of people do it by feel. I would agree with your logic that slightly cooler is better than slightly warmer. I remember using a python and sitting there for a few minutes on the sink we had to get it right. I'd turn the flow off, then turn it back on, feel the temp on the output of the python and run back to the sink to adjust it. Sometimes I'd literally be tapping it to move it slightly. Cory and others have shown off the thermometer tool they use on their hoses.

Very sorry for what you're going through. I would add an airstone if you can. As with what you said above the concerning thing is the redness on the gill section. Salt might be a good idea as well. I think what your doing is correct with the Maracyn / Ich-X. I don't know if the best thing is to see how added aeration helps and monitor for another 24-48 hours. I definitely wish we had a hotline for issues like this 😞 . I would scrape the front glass as well, just to make it easier for you to see things when sharing photos.

It's difficult to see, but I have no experience with this type of issue.

Yeah I would just remove the heater guard. They are likely on it because it's next to the sponge.

The prime will help with the ammonia, it's likely chloramines showing up. Definitely keep an eye on your water and conditions from the tap. I think it was Colu had mentioned in another thread, to get a container, put some lava rock or something in the bottom and then go ahead and add a pump so the water can stay agitated, then you'd condition your water so it can remove the ammonia and such before you use it for water changes. Have it ready to go beforehand. Unfortunately, a lot of hobbyist have to do that. I think getting him out of the 55 is going to be critical. Maybe you can move him to your 10G but there's a Betta in there and they will likely stress him out. Unfortunately, it seems like the only place is a tub with water from the 55 (can do it in the flex also) and removing the ammonia water and getting him somewhere asap. Then the issue is trying to make sure the 55 doesn't have issues with water being added.

Probably was what happened then. When I had issues with rasboras they had little silver/white patches on them. It was some sort of disease where they just slowly started to deteriorate over time. Very pale and then they started to show issues and struggling. Hopefully someone else has some experience with rasboras that can speak to temp specifically.

They might end up on the heater as a result instead of the guard. Are they going on it because it's shady? Because the flow? Because of the food stuck in the grate? Because there's not other surfaces for them to graze on during the day that is shady? Shake out the filter in your tank and see howuch gunk comes out. If it's bad I usually unplug it, wait 20-30 minutes for it to cool and then take it to a sink and deep clean it. If you're not sure about the scape, just send a photo and we can check it out. I still owe you a video.

Could be. It was a low %, but some species are very sensitive to temp. Temp usually is?

I think the ziss bubble bio or moving bed filter might explain it better. Sometimes the media gets clogged and the bacteria can't function, that's one reason. I would guess that another reason is because it just gets outcompeted by other bacteria until it can no longer function. Even something like doing a water change, you forget about that sponge or something and it dries out, that might be all it takes. I'm sure there are more experienced and people here with experience scientifically here that can really give you a solid answer.

What does your water test after 24 hours with aeration? Kind of unfortunate to have the ammonia in there. I wonder if it can just be off-gassed. From briefly looking online it sounds like the culprit is probably chloramines in the water that show up on the ammonia test. From what I read they also cannot be off-gassed. I really hope you have something to filter water for cooking or drinking. They sell under sink systems that might be a good investment for you to filter that out. I agree, having a container to condition water is a good investment for water changes. They do sell 55G trashcans that you can put on wheels. It's very common use for maintenance companies at well so they don't have to carry buckets in places that don't have water access.

Nicely done. Looks good!

I found an interesting tidbit when Cory was doing a tour. I'll have to find it, but it's very relevant to the conversation. The concept of having what the fry need (cover) as a spawn trigger. Secondly, I re-found these. From my last spawn on the black corys. I had all sides of the glass with clusters like this, an amazing spawn. It was also on floating anubias and some other spots but no photos amongst the excitement were captured. The floating anubias was standard size, as well as nangi and coffeefolia varities. These were the glass opposite the HoB flow. EDIT: On the living room panda horde, I'm seeing them continuously hanging out in the Anubias nana bush. I think if it was bigger, they'd spawn in it, but I really am expecting to lift up one of these and see it there. Main tank is full of algae yet again... trying to get the plants to grow in and see where they lay.

@Fishtanker22Welcome! So there's a few things we need to do in order to narrow down what is the ultimate cause here. Especially because of how rapidly you're seeing the drops I am thinking it's more of a water parameter issue than an issue of the hardscape, but let's investigate! 1. Take a sample of water from your tap, report back test results for KH, GH, PH. 2. Take that same sample of water, put in an airstone and aerate the water for 24 hours. Then re-test and report those results. 3. On your tank itself, what is the KH, GH, and PH? https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh You also have things in the water besides plants that are going to use up some of the available calcium and could lead to changes if your KH is particularly low or on the edge of being too low.

awesome stuff. Should do really well and have good bacteria already. If you need to, use old tank water and just rinse it then put it back into the flex. You can do a WC, you can change as much as you want if nothing is in the tank.

1. Gravel Vac the bottom when the bucket is 1/2 foll I take the sponge off and put it into the bucket and continue to vacuum. 2. I usually use two buckets. One of them for sponge, the other is to get the % of WC I want. I usually clean the sponge as best I can, then move it to #2 for a second clean if need be. Everything goes into the "clean bucket" 3. Dump the water in the plants outside and then the remainder is in the yard. I rinse it out, put everything back in the tank and then I fill it with new water. On a deeper clean, before re-filling, I'd take the filter apart, clean the pump and everything else that I need to.

What kind of a scape are we talking? Planted? Rocks? Wood?

Because of the skimmer, when feeding floating food. Yes. It's very common for me for the food to literally go right into the intake. Kasa/TP-Link wifi Outlets. Timer function is awesome for this.

Call the store, take it back. They made the mistake and they have to be aware of what on earth they are selling.

If you're saying you put something like this in the filter: I could've just been full of waste and that caused the spike. That media is often used for something like diffusing flow (slowing it down) so that the big muck gets trapped inside of that instead of the "good media" This is the media that I believe is what you have. You'd put some of that into the flex to start it cycling and then it may have chunks of waste in the center as well. You can rinse them in tank water and should be fine without causing any disturbance to the bacteria.

nice work!

What do you think is best to do for the redness in the gills. Airstone, salt? @Colu @Torrey ?

Can you test the other tank as well? You moved some gravel into the tank? Besides the media what is in there from the old tank? Salt will help a lot to ease ammonia burn as well. The only thing that explains high ammonia right now is ammonia from the tap or from the old tank so we need to isolate where it's coming from. If you're seeing ammonia that high in the old tank, it explains some of the issues.

The issue is right now the Betta is in a 55g with extremely higher flow than desired. Take some media from the canister and put it in the flex. Take the media that came with the flex and put the little bag into your canister. Then you should be starting with a cycle going partially. I will say yes. Correct

😂 I am sorry if that photo causes a hint of fear response. I understand it, but they are definitely one of the most misunterstood animals in the world. There is a documentary that you've reminded me of, and I would love for you to check it out! It's on disney plus and other places "Playing with Sharks" and it's about the woman who worked on and was pretty critical to the success of Jaws. She didn't view it as a realistic movie in any capacity, others have this innate fear because of how good the movie is. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/07/27/movies/valerie-taylor-jaws-shark.html This better? I was trying to find the one he had of an Oceanic Whitetip but it's so difficult to find some of his work. I highly recommend checking his stuff out on Instagram if you like Photography. I don't have one, but that's about the only place he posts stuff. I had to 😩 when I got to the end of the article. Their study showed at 133 db the sharks had a very strong response against the noise. At 135+ they suffered hearing damage. So they decided to design the enclosure for 133 db. Not something with buffer like 110, 120, etc. Just weird to me. Anyways, yeah, it's an interesting topic but I wanted to share it because I know so many people (and myself) struggle with breeding and some species don't have high spawn rates. It might make a difference in efforts, it might not, but it's something cool to note. I have noticed fish behavior being... unhappy when I have the TV next to a tank or music on in the room. They tend to hide and tend to show some negative signs. I do as a result of that turn things down or go to other rooms to listen.