Tommy Vercetti

Okay here is what I know. 1. I can 3d print the this file. 2. I have no idea what this this is supposed to do, therefore I can not test this print when finished 3. It will print at any size I choose. Therfore we need to use a universal size pipe so that I can be sure it will fit when assembled. 4. I can mail it when finished to you via usps in a small box (6"×4"x3"). First class mail should be in the range in $4 to $8. 5. I am willing to help if you are willing to as well. 6. The print will be the grey part in your photos. So you would need to make the rest (likely from PVC pipe). Let me know.

Hmmm, well the link is 404 not found. Can you check the link for me? Fixed based on your screenshot photos: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/turbo-exhausteur-wikeee Checking it out right now, standby.

I have a 3d printer. Do you have an .stl file?

I use EI dosing as well (which is over-fertilizing). It works well for me. I liked easy green but could not get my phosphate level to my targeted 1.5ppm so I switched to EI method and mixing my own fertilizers from powder. If you get those plants growing strong, there is almost no chance of algae growing on them.

I can almost guarantee that your acrylic lid will a warp. At least that is what happened to my diy acrylic lids, before I replaced them with glass lids.

I agree that ten hours is too long of a photo period. I run mine at 8 hours and have seen my fair share of algae with that setting.

Based on a recommendation from @Mmiller2001 I do this: CaSO4+2h2o (Calcium sulfate/Gypsum) (4.2 dGH) 5gal water add 2.44 grams (30ppm) MgSO4 (Epsom Salt) (2.31dGH) 5gal water add 1.92 grams (10ppm) K2CO3 (Potassium carbonate) (1 dKH) 5gal water add 0.466 grams Tested, after 4 hours mixing: dGh 7 dKh 2 Ph 8.4 TDS 142ppm Ca 80ppm When this is added to my aquarium the PH always tests at 6.8, with UNS control soil substrate. I am sure that if you have an inert substrate that your Ph will be around 7.2 to 7.8

I 3d printed this for a different powerhead.

We keep them (the large Pepper Coydoras) at 75 f and they are breeding like rabbits. I also have some Corydoras Habrosis (Some people call this dwarf cory "Pepper Corydoras") in another tank at 80 f.

Update: the Rams are still doing well though no eggs hatched. Tomorrow is water change day, so I thought that I would share my aqurium test numbers from today (before the water change): Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 30 ppm Ph: 6.8 GH: 12 dgh / 215 ppm Kh: 4 dkh / 72 ppm TDS: 365 ppm Ca: 60 ppm Phosphates: 0.5 ppm Temperature: 79.9 F

I don't know for sure because I live in the Desert of Nevada (I forgot what rain looks like). But fish in nature seem to like rain water. I think as long as you can consistently collect enough for water changes, then it should be an excellent source of clean soft water for your aquarium. I have heard that many people use rain water to get their corydoras to spawn.

First let me say that I love the aqurium test strips and that I use them often. But I have noticed that the gh is wildy inaccurate and always indicates much higher than what it should read. I have verified this using remineralized RO water and testing that against TDS meter and api liquid tests.

Not a problem for me. I propagated a lot of red root floaters in my high tech tank a few months ago. After that, I removed them and placed them in my low tech tanks, no problems at all.

Here you go (shrimp safe), enjoy: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/easy-iron

@JettsPapa is correct and has put it in such succinct terms, I don't see how his explanation can be improved. 100% impressive. It is possible to have ots and have kept up with water changes. PPM counts, of some dissolved solids, plotted on a graph will roughly double over time (compared to the source water). Even with weekly 50% water changes.

It's been a long time for me, but if I remember correctly, most under gravel filters were powered by air stones. I see he has two pump heads in this setup. Carry on.

I add 1 2/3 Tbls of pure rock salt and a pinch of baking soda in chlorinated tap water to 1 liter of water in my hatchery. I keep the temperature at about 75f using an incandescent bulb.

I use the single input caps for that exact reason.

Hello Alabama! I think your stocking choices are really good for hard water. I keep all of those fish in declorinated Las Vegas, Nevada hard as a rock water. I keep 2 kuli loaches in hard water without issue, for the past 2 years. 23 dGH and 8dKH. Neocardina shrimp are breeding like rabbits in my hard water as well.

You forgot; water hardness goes up, ph changes over time and onset of old tank syndrome.

I have my filter on a kasa smart plug. I made a Google home routine, when I tell Google "it's time to feed my fish", the filter turns off for 12 minutes, then turns itself back on.

This is a topic that I disagree with myself on. I understand that testing for nitrates should dictate how often and how much water should be changed. But I end up doing a 50% water change, every Sunday, on everytank. I know that is not needed because I have a fountain in the backyard with; corydoras, mollies, guppies (100's of guppies) and even large gold fish, and that gets a waterchange about once a year.

I am certified veteran of the Algae war, with 4 tours of duty. I am, at this point, a kill-all-algae-on-sight kind of soldier.

I would place it where it can get the most light. It has been my experience that if it does not get enough light then it will slowly die and get taken over by algae. Here is how I placed mine