Tommy Vercetti

Thank you. 3d printed it myself.

Well the bucephandra tissue culture was promptly eaten by the small army of red Rili Shrimp the inhabit my aquarium. I guess I will need actual plants going forward.

My wife found them at bulk reef supply. They are called "Mur-Lok Valves".

I think they are called Murdock valves. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks for your help.

Tried that, no luck. I mean of course I googled it before posting this.

Jimmy filmed a fantastic and helpful video of Dean's Brine Shrimp 101. I am trying to find out where I can get the valves used on Dean's Brine Shrimp hatching bottles. In that video Dean's Brine Shrimp hatching bottles have a valve attached to them. I need help sourcing this exact valve. Thanks for any help. at 6:40 in the video Here is my current setup:

In my last set up, I had a thick Monte Carlo carpet, grown from one ACO live plant, but it was Co2 injected. https://youtube.com/watch?v=-AfGppKRe6Q&feature=shares

I love the tank and stand have fun get inspired for the hard scape bu goggle image search and youbtube aquascape videos. Here is a picture of my 40cm cube.

Thank you so much. What really surprised me was how many left over plants I had. Literally a 5 gallon bucket full of plants that did not get replanted.

Day 7, added some Bucephelandra tissue culture. Hopefully that grows in nicely.

Thanks. I used cotton balls and super glue to make the scape. I used the dust from the dragon stone to color the cotton balls to match the stone before gluing it.

You can add them now. Test daily and 50% water change if ammonia or nitrites spike.

So even with my cycled canister filter installed, it still required 3 days to cycle with new UNS controsoil for substrate. I performed two 50% water changes, daily, for the first 3 days. One water change in the morning and the other at night.

Thanks. That is Rotala in the back left side. i am not sure but some have suggested that is looks like rotala orange juice or H'ra there is also alternanthera reineckii mini, in front of that. The substrate is UNS controsoil and it is sloped up quite a bit in the back of the tank.

Before: After

I have this exact tank. Panda corydoras, one honey gouramy, cardinal tetras, guppies, coydoras habrosis, rili shrimp and cherry barbs.

I am sure that you know this already but it is worth repeating: use tank water to gently clean a sponge filter or any biological filter media. Tap water can easily kill beneficial bacteria because the chlorine that is in the tap water is antibacterial.

I would test for ammonia and nitrites daily and wait it out 3 to 5 days. If I detect ammonia or nitrites I would then decide if I want to water change 50% or dose seachem prime. As an example if I detected 0.25 ppm ammonia I would dose with prime. Conversely, if I detected 2.0 ppm ammonia then I would do a 50% water change and dose with prime. I do also use seachem stability on new setups but I have noticed that it causes cloudiness that will stay until mechanically filtered out. Also I don't see any benefits of adding seachem stability if I have 0.0ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrites because this means that the beneficial bacteria in the tank are able to handle ammonia and nitrite enough to make them undetectable and Prime can easily detoxify ammonia and nitrites at lower levels while I wait for the beneficial bacteria that is floating in the water column (cloudiness) to become attached to the filter media and other surfaces of the aquarium. I feel that a water change, while sometimes necessary for the well being of the livestock in the aquarium, will also prolong the process of building beneficial bacteria. As you have already become aware over cleaning your filter can cause a mini cycle and bacteria bloom. But what you may not know is that gravel vacuuming is a commitment that requires that you doing it regularly (I recommend once a week) or never do it at all (this is the method I use) so as to not suddenly introduce a large quantity of decaying organic material into the water column. One other consideration is overfeeding. It is very common for new fish keepers to overfeeding the aquarium and this will result in bacteria blooms, ammonia spikes and ultimately high nitrates.

20 gallon long is on sale right now at petco, this weekend for $25 . I would think that would be large enough without a divider. Good luck! We live in Las Vegas too.

My Pepper Corydoras are breeding in PH 7.4 and hard water 19 degrees GH (Las Vegas, NV, tap water). Water temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. With weekly 50% water change on Sundays. They almost always lay eggs on Monday and/or Tuesday.

Your canister filter is that good. I have a few aquariums set up with sponge filters and one with a canister filter. The aquariums with sponge filters (corse and fine sponges) always have a significant amoint of detritus when squeezed once every 2 weeks.