Mmiller2001

My personal choice is dry fertilizers, but the simple options are Easy Green Nilocg Thrive APT If you use all in in one fertilizers, you will have to adjust the Flourish dose.

Ah, you are not dosing enough macros (NPK). Those plants look deficient and root tabs are misleading. I would add a NPK source along with the Flourish. When you get the water column dosing correct, you can discontinue root tabs if you want.

They will not recover. All efforts should focus on new growth. I would use up the equilibrium and after use CaSO4 and MgSO4, can be bought at aquarium fertilizer shops. I would spread it out over the week. However, life can alter plans so just be sure you get it in the tank. Twice a week is solid option. And thank you! Also, adding more plants really really helps.

How much fertilizer are you adding and which kind?

It's possible too that maybe you have a bit more chlorine/chloramine than your dechlorinator dose can handle. Maybe dose 2x dechlorinator. Interesting mystery you have going here.

No, I have low TDS because I use RO/DI water. This water is 0 TDS and I build my water to specific parameters. Tap water contains all sorts of things in addition to minerals we want. I simply add Ca, Mg, N,P,K and trace elements. I also make my water on the softer side. This takes very little Ca and Mg. Also, running 0dKH really helps.

PH swing isn't causing this. Whats the TDS of your source water and the TDS of the tank/s? Tap water can have quite a bit of CO2 in it coming from the waterworks. I would try filling a large water container and running a pump or air stone 24 hours ahead of time. I would dechlorinate at that time too

I run mine 24/7. It's probably the best device I put on my high energy tank.

If this was me, I would discontinue the use of crushed coral and Easy Carbon. I would raise GH to 4.5dGH (Equilibrium is just okay, there are better options) and I would leave KH alone. Having 1 or 0dKH is not a problem especially with software fish. I would increase water changes to 50% per week and dose EG at 18 pumps a week. Possibly more. I would remove as much of the old necrotic leaves as possible while making sure it has a few leaves for energy. As new healthy growth appears, I would remove the remaining necrotic leaves.

You are not dosing enough fertilizer. Is your GH still 3dGH with the crushed coral?

I would increase to 50% for sure then. And drop to 6-7 pumps of EG.

I would do 9 pumps of EG and 1 pump EI weekly. You can do it all at once or split the pumps up over the week. My recommendation is to do 50% water changes a week. If you do less, keep an eye on nitrates and you might have to reduce EG a bit.

At least once a week and every plant needs Iron. How many gallons is the tank?

Are there nitrites in your source water?

You are going to have to dive into RO/DI, Belem only like 6.0 or below!

No, those water parameters are fine. Stress or they had a bacterial infection from shipping.

Looks real nice. Well done.

It raises KH. You will just have to test and see how much it raises it.

How did you acclimate them and what are you KH and GH?

The first group of numbers are for CO2 injected tanks FYI. These are CO2 numbers

If you are seeing new GSA, I would double the dose of PO4 (this is what I do up to 6ppm a week, after 6ppm I move up by 1ppm). Plants love PO4 and it doesn't cause algae. Just don't neglect your other nutrients too. I've been as high as 10ppm and never saw any problems, I also didn't see any improvements so I dropped it back down to 8ppm. These are the relative ranges of EI dosing. Tom Barr recommends 1/4 to 1/3 EI for non CO2 injected tanks: NO3 - up to 20 - 30ppm PO4 - up to 5 - 7ppm K - up to 20 - 30ppm Fe/traces - up to 0.5 - 1ppm @1/4 NO3 5-7.5ppm PO4 1.25-1.75ppm K 5-7.5ppm Fe/Traces .125-.25ppm @1/3 NO3 6.6-9.9ppm PO4 1.65-2.31ppm K 6.6-9.9ppm Fe/Trace .165-.33ppm The only time I see a problem is when I push Nitrates too high. I find GDA starts showing up. It's usually up towards the light first then comes down the sides of the glass. I suspect it's too much light at a relative NO3 level. Once I see GDA, I drop NO3 a bit and I've found my sweet spot. Hopefully my math is correct 😁 If you only dose the incoming water to 1ppm, the tank can't have more than 1ppm. I see your thinking, but I would try increasing your total to 1.5 or 2ppm. I would go a straight 2ppm if it was me. But for learning purposes, go in .5 increments if you choose to increase.

I've found that dropping nitrates to about 12ppm a week, and doing 50% water changes stops GDA. Also, when the plant mass fills in the tank, GDA seems to just disappear.

I have been using 15ml per 10.gallons. Turn off pumps and let the water become still. Then paint the BBA with the hydrogen peroxide (using a syringe) Let it sit for 20 minutes and then turn your pumps back on. You can repeat this every 24 hours. You can use Seachem Excel too, but it can be harsh on plants and animals.

That is black Beard Algae. Most people agree it's caused by fluctuating CO2 and elevated levels of dissolved organics. You will also see it favor high flow areas. My go-to method is increasing water changes, lightly gravel vacuuming and now I prefer spot dosing hydrogen peroxide to kill it.

Okay, I would also get the iron supplement Seachem Iron. Easy Green is EDTA chelated and Seachem is ferrous gluconate. So the iron is being mostly locked out from Easy Green.