Mmiller2001

K-Potassium Fe-Iron

Upgraded RO/DI unit with booster pump.

Yes.

Cut off healthy top and replant the top. Toss lower portion.

Look for Nilocg Thrive.

Have amazon.com there?

Where are you?

It's BBA, and you are likely low on CO2. Your PO4 is fine but you are low on NO3 too. What amount of K and Fe are you dosing? You are also growing slow growth plants that don't need the amount of light you are giving them. GH boosters contain extra K, and should not be used. I would just use magnesium sulfate and calcium sulfate to set GH. If your livestock allows, drop GH to 5dGH at 2:1 Ca:Mg. I would thoroughly read through all of this to better understand what's going on. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why Here is how I'm currently dosing my tank. Notice the PO4 dose.

Surface skimmer. Eheim makes a nice simple one.

I just keep mine in the fridge and only the Micro solution. It has never developed mold. I would look at EI vs PPS Pro, not many tanks are that successful on PPS Pro. I've also found that just dumping the dry fertilizer into the tank is the easiest way to dose. And better yet, is to front load Marcos via water changes.

They are quite. The spray bar is the output and provides superior surface agitation.

Eheim AEH4004310 Spray Bar Set 494 Canister Filters Parts for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014FIOQC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_P81XBHAH05BRBA7NPWNA JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe Inflow with Surface Skimmer for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H1VGJ8Y2K863DKSQT2K6?psc=1 Eheim AEH4004412 Double Tap Connector 494 Canister Filters Parts for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004132FGO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D7ZRDR6WTCZC2HPWDEZ0 This is what I use. If you buy Eheim Classic canisters, most come with double taps. And make sure the sizes match.

Why do you want this particular substrate?

The poop looks normal, but flashing is not. I would Paracleanse for 2 weeks per directions. Rest one week and then dose a third week per directions.

That would make you low on CO2 then. Something else is going on.

I'm wondering if you are going to be low on light. What kind of plants do you want to grow and what are the dimensions of such a beast?

For a new colony, maybe ever 2nd day. Bacterae and baby shrimp, once a week. I always drop in Catappa leaves for a constant food source.

I believe that soil is a buffering soil and it's going to consume your carbonates for a good long while. Maybe for the next several months to 2 years. A long term battle with KH is not ideal. That said, and personally, I would keep the soil and try the CPDs. I keep all my tanks at 0KH. I wish I had your tap water, my life would be easier. Keeping GH and TDS stable is what counts. 6.8ph at 0dKH and 4dGH is really really nice. FYI my Harlequin Rasbora are kept in 0dKH at a 4.85pH.

I use Glasgarten Bacter AE and their Baby Shrimp. I will drop in high protein pellets also.

Those GLA reactors are very efficient. If you're injecting at the same rate as before, you could be gassing the fish. How are you measuring CO2 levels? What is your KH and pH with CO2 on? This is what fish look like when CO2 is starting to get too high. After this, they will begin passing out then die. Did you quarantine the fish and or medicate the fish? Is the tank cycled? Is this a new tank? What is the GH? What is the TDS of the tank?

Leafzone is not a comprehensive fertilizer. I would look into something else or something that could be dosed along with it that fills in the gaps. Nitrates should not be zero unless you have an aqua soil. Even then, you still need nutrients in the water.

Do you just need the intake and return equipment?

Awesome, thank you.

Should I shift the base of the street a bit left along with the Nymphaea? And it's okay to have the pink color of the Wallichii mostly center? Waiting on this algae problem to resolve, then I will start it.

I think that's just from being moved too much. But being covered in dust can't help, right!