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Hemali

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  1. Hi, I have 30 corydoras, 16 rummy nose tetras, 8 otocinclus, 9 very young Chili rasboras, and a few Amano shrimp in my 55gal. Just got 15 corys about 4 days ago and the other 15 corys 2 weeks ago. Water parameters: 0:0:10-15, ph: 7.4 temp: set at 76 drops to 72.5 at night because of environmental temperature. I just noticed a few corydoras have these white little string clusters on their fins. Its not on their body and isn't little whit spots like ich. Any idea what it is? About 10 have a little. Only the corys have this stuff and they're acting and eating fine. Also, my corys sometimes flash after sifting the really fine sand through their gills, only my corydoras are flashing. Is that normal for fine sand tanks and corys? I'm thinking its a fungal thing caused by a combination of not having gravel vacuumed the sand at all and stress from being new to the tank. Im thinking of gravel vacuuming then doing a 30% water change and seeing how this go. If it doesn't go away, Im thinking of quarantining them and treating with api fungus cure. My worry with medicating is that the medication will be too strong for the younger little corys and I only have a 5.5gal quarantine tank.
  2. I am using tap but this apartment has really old piping I think. When I compared the parameters of warm water from the tap to cold water they were really different. For example the warm water had really really high ph. Is this normal? Ive heard old pipes can leach more into the water when its hot water. Our water also comes out brown for the first bit (I think its rust or something. It stains the tube where it drips from
  3. This may be a dumb question, but does the wattage matter if I'm just getting the heater to heat the bucket of water to do water changes? I'm asking because I've read high wattage heaters get hot quick and am worried it might shatter being in such cold water with a quick change in temp when it heats up. 😅
  4. Just got a whole bunch of different fast growing stem plants and floating plants! Also, 8 otocinclus.
  5. I had the exact same problem until i realized its not just how long they get light but how strong the light is. Once i got a weaker light and dropped the time to 6-8hrs (depending on the tank plants). My spot algae and diatom problem was all but gone. Ive also got ramshell snails and a assasin to keep them in check. Hope this helps ^_^
  6. Hi, Im pretty sure amazon swords are primarily to entirely root feeders. Try puting a root tab betwen them. Hope this helps ^_^
  7. Hi, I have some red root floaters, spangles, and frogbit that I want to move from my 10 gallon to my 55 gallon, but my 10 gallons infested with hair algae. Is there any way I can 100% insure the hair algaes dead on the plant before moving some of them to my 55gallon? Also, I have a bit of surface disturbance from a spray bar in my 55gallon, are there any floating plants that would thrive in that? I need some good plants to absorb nitrates since my tap water reads at 20<. What if I take the floating plants and put them in a seprate cup filled with tank water with an over dose of flourish excel or easy carbon for about 2 or 3 days?10 gallon10 gallon floating plantssuface disturbance in 55gallon. Theres a floating leaf to show movement.
  8. I didnt know this, thank you! I think I'll get blue velvets and sakura orange then. I though all shrimp needed extremely "clean" water. Im glad i can still have shrimp in my waters.
  9. I dont think the tap here is on well, but i did the tests on water that was sitting our for over 24hr and straight out of the tap with sadly the same results 😕
  10. Thank you everyone! Ive recieved a lot of helpful advice! I feel so much more confident going into fixing the issues with this tank. Definitely doing another large water change to get the nitrates down a little more, adding a lot more plants that take nutrients from the water column, adding floating plants (thinking red root floaters from my other tank), stopping fertalizers until my plants are fully established. Also, i realized I mixed up the instructions from the easy green and easy carbon. One suggests once a week and the other every other day.
  11. After my newly set up 55gal unstocked planted aquarium was reading at 40~60ppms, I checked my faucets parameters. This is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change? Are there any products that are shrimp and scaless fish safe to adjust the water during water changes? Im currently using prime to dechlorinate. Im getting a reverse osmosis system for my sink for drinking water. Should I use that water instead? Im hoping to have shrimp in the tank
  12. Its from our tap unfortunately. I really want shrimp in the tank and some more sensitive fish species, so Im getting a reverse osmosis system for the sink for both the fishes health and mine. Thank you for you help!
  13. Theres no livestock. The other plants are 6 anubias nana petite, 4 anubias barteri nana, 3 amazon sword, bought two containers of staurogyne repens, 12 ludwigia natan stems, and 7 containers of monte carlo. Ill get on that 50% water change today and update tomorrow. Update: I just moved into this new apartment thats a few blocks away. I assumed the water was the same. However, this is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change?
  14. Theres no livestock. The other plants are 6 anubias nana petite, 4 anubias barteri nana, 3 amazon sword, bought two containers of staurogyne repens, 12 ludwigia natan stems, and 7 containers of monte carlo. Ill get on that 50% water change today and update tomorrow.
  15. Im so confused! The tank details: I just set up this 55 gallon. It has a fluval fx4 with a heater, bubbler, prefilter, and spray bar. I added the monte carlo about 3 weeks ago and the other plants about 3 days ago. The monte carlo was a tissue culture, so all the terrestrial leaves are melting and new ones are growing in, as well a new roots. Ive added easy green and easy carbon around every other day for the last week and a half. I also added cycled media from my old tanks and beneficial bacteria starter liquid. Now for the problem: I just checked my nitrates and the its sitting really high, around 40-80ppm (i cant really tell which color it is based on the chart). The ammonia is at 0ppm and the ph is around 7. I think it maybe all the melting from the monte carlo causing a spike in ammonia->nitrates. Ive never had this happen during a tank start up. Also, should I do a large water change. I have ludwigia in the tank and have read they dont like dramatic changes in water parameters. If I should, what percentage do you recommend? Update: I just moved into this new apartment thats a few blocks away. I assumed the water was the same. However, this is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change?
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