xXInkedPhoenixX

Treating with the med trio is entirely up to you @sweetpoison. Cory has proven this can be effective and this is what their site says: If you are treating new fish, make sure the quarantine tank is far away from your normal display tank, and do not let the tanks share any nets, siphons, buckets, or other equipment. Since droplets of water can travel on your hands to another aquarium, make sure to thoroughly wash your hands and arms with soap and hot water between tanks. If you are treating the entire display aquarium, do a thorough cleaning of the tank to make sure the fish’s environment is optimal and free of any stress factors before starting treatment. Wipe the aquarium walls so that you can easily observe the fish’s condition, clean out the waste in your filter, and use a siphon to vacuum the substrate and change the water. Remove any chemical filtration (such as activated carbon or Purigen), and turn off any UV sterilizers you may be using. Consider adding extra surface agitation (such as with a simple air stone and air pump), since some medications can change the water’s viscosity and hamper with the fish’s breathing ability. Do not dose according to the box instructions. Instead, add 1 packet of Maracyn, 1 packet of ParaCleanse, and 1 U.S. teaspoon of Ich-X for every 10 gallons of aquarium water. (Ich-X does not stain aquarium decorations in our experience, but be careful not to spill it because it can stain your skin or clothing.) Let the fish soak in the medication, and do not feed them or change any water for 1 week. (If you feel you must feed your fish, wait until Day 4 or 5, and only feed them very lightly.) You should keep the aquarium filter and heater on during this time. Also, aquarium lighting will not deactivate the medication. After 1 week has passed, change out 30% of the water in the aquarium. Resume feeding the fish, keep the water quality high, and watch for any change in symptoms. I got the above instructions from here (I put the name of the 2 meds you asked about in bold above so you can see which ones): https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/how-to-treat-sick-aquarium-fish If you get weak or sick fish, follow the link above for instructions on how to treat weak fish- as you won't be treating them with all 3 meds at once if they are weak.

QT is a MINIMUM of 2 weeks (personally I do 3-4 weeks) and that's only if they are not sick and you don't have to medicate (or if you choose to do the med trio, after treatment and no signs of illness). If they get sick or you have a death, as a general rule I won't take them out of QT for 2 weeks after treating illness or 2 weeks after the death whichever came last if I had both. Whatever container you use for QT make sure you can see through it well enough to observe the fish and light comes in. You'll be keeping an eye out for illness during QT

No, no heater usually needed especially in something that small, just make sure you're not putting it in a super cool area. You can use a sponge filter from the tank and put it in the QT (so you'll have to replace the sponge in the main tank. I usually keep at least one back up sponge filter so I can trade them out for QT tanks and put the back up sponge in the main tank to cycle and it starts all over again. Yes just the first time if you want to start with putting 12 in the main tank- keeping in mind that you may have to medicate the fish if they're sick (more gallons = more meds). After that only 6 fish in QT at a time to avoid overcrowding and ammonia build up (remembering water changes every day in smaller QT) All of these are GREAT places to start with the Salt. The first 3 cover a lot of bases. Have these on hand BEFORE you get your fish. I will always argue for 6- their bio load is next to nothing and they are shoaling fish- always do better in groups. NOW don't add these until you are WELLLL into an established tank! If you need some clean up crew before then I highly recommend 2-3 Nerites at most for the 20, but again wait until you get some algae- Nerites don't eat commercial foods! Corycats are great but again they need 6 and they are not algae eaters- they just eat the leftover foods and if you aren't a heavy feeder may need a little more set out for them- AND they also would need to be added last IMO

Just to update since I know these threads can be helpful for those who need help: This one is still doing fine, swimming normally- eating, not getting any bigger (or smaller) than when this all started.

(Verti is still kickin' - can't even tell which one they are!)

Could be swim bladder. I had a fish that was swimming vertically and I was able to get them better! This is what I did: Black Neon Swimming Vertically? What I've done so far.... Verti, I'm happy to report is still alive and swimming just fine.

Meh. I mess with my plants all the time. Not the best way or per some the right way- but it works. 🙃 Even when you add alll the plants sometimes you find you need to add more.

Exactly as @Tihshho says. Something about how I'm keeping the tanks gets them to spawn. It's not regular- I'm not trying- but others can see what I am and am not doing and work around that to see if that works. I've also successfully raised the fry to adulthood- raising fry isn't always easy- so my method can be copied and modified as needed- I have very few fry losses. I picked fish that "wouldn't breed" for my original tank so I just tripped into this whole Oto baby thing....

@Guppysnail is too kind. I wouldn't call myself a breeder- my Otos though have successfully spawned and I've mananged to raise over 60 Vittatus. People on here have mentioned they have done it- but nobody else has documented it here that I've seen. So my journal is just the story of my accidentally doing it (and hoping I can accidentally do it again- but honestly I'm ok if they don't!) 🙂

Ah, sometimes it's hard to tell with pictures. Wounds on tails and fins aren't uncommon- especially in guppies who constantly chase each other- I'd just keep an eye on it, keep the water clean while you're treating the tank for Ich. Watch for things like further fin damage or fuzzy looking wounds- that's when you might have to treat them for something. ...a lot of the time that kind of thing can clear up on its own- if that's what it is! 🙂

At the very least 2 weeks after the last death. The accidental deaths don't count. Still leave them commercial foods, they will make short work of the algae they will eat- you don't want them to lose the taste for commercial foods.

Well, @sweetpoison you can use a 3 gallon- I have used them for several guppies and several Otos (5 or 6 at a time). BUT this requires DAILY WATER CHANGES, cleaning detrius and etc. Plus- if you have to medicate- 3 gallon calculations are kind of a pain. So- get yourself a 5 gallon storage container- will be a little easier to maintain and easier to calculate meds. I would also if you haven't already- put another small sponge filter in your main tank- let it cycle with your first batch- then when you put fish in the storage bin- you put that cycled sponge inside. Once QT is over you can put the storage bin in a closet!

Thank you! That's definitely Ich- follow the instructions I posted above- 30% water change and follow the manufacture instructions for ICH X only for now. I can't really tell what your fin guy is all about- still leaning more towards deformity @Guppysnail? @Guppyguy? Any of our guppy people see the fin issue before?

Your current thoughts/stocking ideas are not out of the realm of possibility. As you add you will be able to tell where you might have to stop- so add your favorites first!

Theoretically you could add 2 groups the first time (and if they are sick you treat the tank). Then you QT the next group. You don't want to add too much at once- it can wobble your cycle and overwhelm you beneficial bacteria. But all those fish are great choices!! @Patrick_G is right- bioload can be an issue- but it's all about what your level of maintenance will be (the kind of time you want/can spend on your tank) I could argue: I have a very well established 20 gallon tall that has 70 Otos- 2 sponge filters and an HOB. (I only spot clean and change out a couple of gallons a week (because vacuuming substrate takes the water out) I have another 20 gallon tall 10 Black Neons, 10 Harlequins, 1 Bolivian Ram (lots of snails). I don't need to change water here (but I do sometimes because I like to)- it always tests well (2 sponge filters)

Well. They are all great fish I'll tell you that- besides the rummies I have had them all. Each of them generally the recommendation is 6. Theoretically this could work 24 fish is a lot- but they have rather low bioload- this is a 20 long? All but the CPDs (celestials) are mostly middle dweller fish so you'll have a lot of activity in the middle- a long would be better to accomodate this (I have 20 talls). NO. Get one group at a time, let them settle while, QT the next incoming group, add, let them settle while QT the next group....

Actually I stand corrected- if we can see another pic and confirm it could be Ich this is what they recommend: ... you start the quarantine medication treatment, a few days later you may see obvious signs of an outbreak like ich (or white spot disease). Change 30% of the water, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the medication you need to use (e.g., Ich-X in this case). Once the ich is beaten, wait a couple of weeks with no medication to give the fish a break, and then follow up by treating with the other two quarantine medications (e.g., Maracyn and ParaCleanse) for 1 week as originally suggested. I got it from https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/how-to-treat-sick-aquarium-fish I don't use the Med Trio so sometimes I have to refresh my memory! I got too much upstairs! 😄🙃

Welcome to the forum 🙂 . Yes looks like scuds- can be free live fish food depending on what you have in the tank!

@nabokovfan87- hmm unclear at this time. I think I need clarification. @tayedafishhobbist to clarify- when you say day 3- do you mean you're doing the med trio? If yes- IchX is part of the trio- that cures Ich- I would wait unless it gets worse. BUT I would like to see a picture of these spots if you could please- to better help. If the pics above are mr. funky fin- a couple different angle pics would help- and honestly if it just looks deformed and not an injury- I'd do nothing there- but again if you're treating with the trio- all bases should be covered.

In my case to answer you 🙃 no- my snail and/or my Hillstream taking a walk outside the tank is kind of a nightmare scenario- the Flex does not have a lip and the Hillstream and Nerite regularly hang along the top and partially out of water. They make some really cool tank lid risers aftermarket on Etsy- but just not feasible in my circumstance with inhabitants more than the cats- they really don't care for the fish- they just sit on the lid. Honestly friend- I just put in the fan in my pic- the one I was using was just placed on top of the tank- it worked but it wasn't sound- one budge and it would fall off. So I got that clip on this week- so far I'm impressed- it's 82 degrees in the room and 75.6 in the tank!

Hi Yassy, Keeping in mind I don't use the Med Trio: 1. I've used salt in my Flex 9 with a Hillstream. I've done at most 1 tablespoon- they are fine- no adverse effects. 2. Yes, according to ACO they've tested it on everything they sell and shrimp/snails and they are safe. 3. Yes, or if you suspect weak or ill fish you follow the weak or ill fish procedure outlined on ACO store website- they give you instructions for both. 4. It depends. Go with your gut. I only QT and observe- if they show signs of illness that's the only time I treat personally- that's just me. I would wait a minimum of 3 weeks just as a general rule- as long as they weren't sick/treated for illness while in QT and have been healthy the wholt time- they can go in the tank. If you have a trusted seller, like ACO (or if you trust the seller you bought from- experience with them) then you could likely do less!

Hope all is well with the fish. Let us know!

Yea that's rough Joe, wouldn't blame you for adding frozen water- at some point there is just no other choice.

😄 @Hannah Parker right? Thankfully I have some but only have had to use them on cuticles so far, lol! 🤞

Yes, @Hannah ParkerI am thinking something old school like these: Scissors like those aren't usually much bigger than overall length 3-4" so the tip is typically half inch or less.