JettsPapa

As others have said, you can have a wide variety of fish with those parameters. I have quite a few in my tanks, and my water is harder than yours, with higher pH.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I was basing it on this:

Hello. I'll try to help. First, you don't need to be adding any calcium. You probably don't need magnesium either (I'm not sure what it's supposed to be good for). I'm assuming you don't have a heater in your tank, since you mentioned the room temperature. That's fine. Shrimp struggle with sudden temperature changes, but they're fine with a wide range of temperatures as long as it changes gradually. Now that I have that out of the way, how long has the tan been running? It's not uncommon for shrimp to struggle in tanks that haven't been running for 60 days or so, since they graze pretty much constantly, and new tanks haven't had time to build up a good layer of biofilm for them. Also, have you tested for ammonia? It's one of the most common problems, but standard test strips don't test for it. And finally, it's not uncommon for adult shrimp to struggle with being introduced to a new environment. You said you have a shrimp that's berried. If she can hold on long enough for the eggs to hatch and the baby shrimp to be released then the next generation stands a good chance of being okay.

An angelfish may be a good option, if your water is suitable and you have room. If you don't mind me asking, why are you concerned about them? You could have hundreds in a tank that size without their bioload being a problem.

I'm beginning to give up hope that either of the first two will ever happen.

It's my understanding that the various medications for ich all, or at least most, use the same basic ingredient, so it should be fine. I don't believe raising the temperature that high for a relatively short term will harm most commonly kept tropical fish. I don't remember the length of time required, but it shouldn't be difficult to find. I have seen some people recommend raising the temperature, or treating with Ich-X or a similar product, but not both.

Welcome to the forum. I don't believe you can download videos here, but you can post photos. Downloading the video to another site, like youtube, and then posting a link to it is another option.

I was at a Goodwill yesterday and saw some books by WEB Griffin and his son. They were $1.99, so I bought them, but I saw another book in one of his series that had his name on the cover, but when I looked at the title page it was written by two other authors. I left them. This practice seems to have become fairly common in recent years. I know there are still books being written and published with Tom Clancy's name on the spine, even though he died in 2013. Am I the only one who avoids these? (And don't get me started on Lee Child's recent collaborations with his brother. There's a reason his brother hadn't been very successful writing alone.)

If that blew your mind I'm hesitant to tell you that I've seen one or two youtubers who, when asked how many tanks he or she had, replied "I'm not sure."

I'm pretty sure that youtubers make sure their tanks look perfect for videos, so it's entirely possible that any little plants are removed beforehand. Those tanks in the videos didn't look that good before the video, and won't look that good for very long after.

You're right. I'm afraid I overlooked the tank size. A 20 gallon tank is borderline too small for 3-spots anyway, so I'd recommend finding a new home for it. As @NOLANANO said, that would allow you to increase the size of one or more of your other groups. If it was my tank I'd start with adding more corys, of the same species.

I'd recommend getting the largest one you have room for and can afford. Common goldfish can get large.

Welcome to the forum. I doubt that the presence of the betta is making the gourami aggressive. If you want to keep the gourami then adding a couple of females is probably your best chance to reduce the aggression. While they aren't shoaling fish, like tetras, rasboras, corys, etc, most gourami species are social (with dwarf gouramis being the notable exception), and often do best with other fish of the same species, and a ratio of one male to two or three females usually works best. If you don't want to do that then finding a new home for the gourami is probably your best option. Some stores will let you return fish that don't work out.

Hello Felicia, and welcome to the forum. Will this be a planted tank? I have a group of celestial pearl danios in a 5.5 gallon tank, but it's densely planted. It probably wouldn't work in an open tank. Believe it or not, a tank with just shrimp and snails is also entertaining to watch.

Welcome to the forum. I don't doubt that they're doing fine now, but I'd be very surprised if that continues as they get older and approach sexual maturity. It's risky keeping just one, since they will sometimes attack any other fish in the tank, but additional dwarf gouramis is really asking for trouble. They are also notoriously susceptible to illness (usually fatal), so with those two strikes against them the best option would probably be to take them back to the store. I know they're beautiful fish, but I would never recommend them to a new fish keeper. Other gourami species, like pearl gouramis and honey gouramis, rarely have those issues if you're looking for an alternative.

If the plants are doing well I wouldn't mess with your fertilizer schedule. Did you get some water or plants from outside? I'm puzzled more than concerned about the random livestock in the tank.

Thanks. I added an edit to clarify that.

Welcome to the forum. First, if you haven't been adding an ammonia source your tank isn't cycled. I'm not clear on whether or not you did. In any case, no, don't clean the tank, and especially don't clean or replace the filter media. If there's algae on the front of the tank you can scrape it off so you can see better, but don't do any more than that.

There is no substitute for clean water. I'd skip the Prime and just do water changes to keep the combined ammonia and nitrites low; ideally below .50 ppm, but definitely below 1.0 ppm. The safe level depends on your pH, since ammonia is more toxic at higher pH, but those values are a good general guideline. Edit: Add Prime or a similar product to neutralize chlorine or chloramine when you add fresh water. I don't have to bother with it, so I forgot to mention it above. I just meant that I don't recommend using Prime instead of doing a water change.

I've heard that explained as "Do like I say, not like I do."

I'd let it go, and ideally let it grow out of the water. It's a flowering stem. It will sprout one or more flowers at each node, followed by leaves, and finally roots. At that point you can cut the stem on each side of the nodes and you have new plants. I've gotten as many as six from a single stem.

I agree about not adding more species, but I'd like to suggest adding ten or so more panda corys instead of the danios or white clouds.

I may need to backtrack. I found my copy last night and read the first few chapters. From reading that much it doesn't appear to be written for juveniles, like most of his early work, but so far I haven't found anything in it that most people would find offensive. Much of the dialog is a little difficult to follow, because apparently he wrote it like he imagined people would be speaking in 2075, with words like "the" and "a" often left out, and with words that he made up. I assume I've read it before, since I had a copy, but I have zero memory of it, so maybe not. If I have read it it was at least 30 years ago, and maybe 40.

I would never trim crypts down to the roots. I have some that are so dense that fish can barely navigate between them, and they still look great. I may pull them up and spread them out (and sell the excess), but I can't imagine any reason to cut them off.

It's an early one. It's been decades since I read it, but from what I remember it's okay.