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Fluval Plant 3.0 Settings


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I just bought a new light and would like to shadow someone's settings! I guess it could be considered a fairly heavily stocked tank with Plant load that is. I've got 6 Cichlids no more than 3" and a bristle nose.  I've been playing with the light but am curious as to others manual settings My tank is a typical 55

48"Lx12"Wx18"T

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Edited by Nick H.
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18 hours ago, Nick H. said:

I just bought a new light and would like to shadow someone's settings! I guess it could be considered a fairly heavily stocked tank with Plant load that is. I've got 6 Cichlids no more than 3" and a bristle nose.  I've been playing with the light but am curious as to others manual settings My tank is a typical 55

48"Lx12"Wx18"T

20201220_152549.jpg

20201220_152606.jpg

20201220_152611.jpg

Greetings!  If I may, I would suggest since you have many swords to look into a less intense, longer duration of light.  Swords especially love longer photo periods and don't care as much about light intensity.  We of course want enough intensity for the other plants, but thankfully the fluval is pretty strong.

 

If you want simple, dive into auto mode, set the sunrise and sunset to be as between 1-2 hours each (your choice) then we want a solid 8 hours of daylight, with that set something like: pink 50%, blue 10%, pure white 80%, cool white 70% warm white 70%

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@Bentley Pascoe I will do exactly that!  I actually Just finished your 3 part series on the tube. I appreciate you taking time to help people like me who are extremely green but am very passionate!! I really like the idea of a siesta. I usually leave the house at 6am AMD dont walk back through the door till 6 and our morning starts at 4am. This is what's been running for the last few days.

Screenshot_20201221-113936_FluvalSmart.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Just purchased a fluval plant 3.0 48" for my 120 gallon tall discus tank. Tank dimensions are 48" L 24" W and 24" deep. Plants are swords, anubias, Val, and bacopa. No CO2. Do you think one light is enough for this deep a tank? And what would you recommend for light settings? Was leaning towards Bentley's  Day sim late as I like the nature day cycle idea. 

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50 minutes ago, danielb333 said:

Just purchased a fluval plant 3.0 48" for my 120 gallon tall discus tank. Tank dimensions are 48" L 24" W and 24" deep. Plants are swords, anubias, Val, and bacopa. No CO2. Do you think one light is enough for this deep a tank? And what would you recommend for light settings? Was leaning towards Bentley's  Day sim late as I like the nature day cycle idea. 

One should do the trick with what you're planning.  Most of those plants don't need high light, they prefer a longer photo period which most of my settings provide quite well.  I had swords under Day Sim and they did phenomenal.

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@Nick H.I just have to ask, what's up with that handle in the middle of the cabinet door? I can't say I've ever seen that.

Also, on the subject, I'm migrating to a 48" x 12" x 18" deep tank. Will have a wide variety of plants including wisteria, octopus, buces, anubias and hopefully the banana and swords I have now that aren't doing great.

Could I use a 36" fluval 3.0 off to one side to provide a darker low light corner? It would sit right on the current tank lid (replacing the current hood). Would love your thoughts @Bentley Pascoe. Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Socqua said:

Also, on the subject, I'm migrating to a 48" x 12" x 18" deep tank. Will have a wide variety of plants including wisteria, octopus, buces, anubias and hopefully the banana and swords I have now that aren't doing great.

Could I use a 36" fluval 3.0 off to one side to provide a darker low light corner? It would sit right on the current tank lid (replacing the current hood). Would love your thoughts @Bentley Pascoe. Thanks!

Yes you could in theory, just keep in mind that you should expect that corner to have very limited light (great for anubias and buce!) so don't look at putting things like stems or swords over there, they will almost certainly do poor/die.

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Thanks @Bentley Pascoe, that was my plan. One option is get the 48 and put a bunch of floating plants in that corner to shade the bottom. Another thing I thought of was to do the 36 then get some mini led strips/individual lights to further customize lighting, color, etc. And possibly use it to "spotlight" certain sections of the tank, if that makes sense.

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I'm a Tech for Case IH and one of our customers who's one of the biggest farmers within a 100 miles loves aquariums and he gave me this stand. Hes actually the one who got me into the whole planted tank theme. He has a 800 Gallon Planted tank full of 1000's of Tiny schooling fish and it looks absolutely AMAZING!

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5 minutes ago, Socqua said:

No judgement I love odd designs. Thought maybe it was some common style I wasn't familiar with or or served some other purpose. Interesting.

I've seen this before on various cabinets. It was a trend for a while, not just in fish tanks--apartments, etc. No reason, just novel fashion. I suspect it is because someone thought a handle on one corner of a single centered cabinet door would look asymmetrically odd.

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7 hours ago, Bentley Pascoe said:

One should do the trick with what you're planning.  Most of those plants don't need high light, they prefer a longer photo period which most of my settings provide quite well.  I had swords under Day Sim and they did phenomenal.

Thanks for the reply. Watched your YouTube videos while waiting for my 3.0 to arrive. Awesome content helped alot. 

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  • 2 months later...

Hello everyone ! I just planted some new red plants in my tank and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for the fluval 3.0 settings when it comes to red plants. I have a 50 gallon tank and and a have fluval 3.0 that is too big for my tank I think its a 48 inch. I know that red plants require high lighting to get deep reds but what exactly be high light on the fluval ? I have the light set to the auto planted setting and I have co2 running so I'm hoping I'm doing something right hahah 

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15 minutes ago, Shardies said:

Hello everyone ! I just planted some new red plants in my tank and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for the fluval 3.0 settings when it comes to red plants. I have a 50 gallon tank and and a have fluval 3.0 that is too big for my tank I think its a 48 inch. I know that red plants require high lighting to get deep reds but what exactly be high light on the fluval ? I have the light set to the auto planted setting and I have co2 running so I'm hoping I'm doing something right hahah 

Hi Shardies, I’m not much help with answering your question but Bentley Pascoe has a lot of information about the 3.0 and plants on his YouTube channel. I currently use his daylight sim settings and I really like them. 

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Im almost scared to ask because Im sure this could be a can of worms but here goes.... What would you consider "High Light" with a Fluval Nano Plant in a tank that is 12" deep from surface to substrate? 

Asking from the perspective of a person without a PAR meter....I have been making lighting changes based on percentage of the factory daylight setting (I posted my chart earlier on this thread). In other words I consider the factory setting at 100% and reduce down from there while keeping the color spectrum ratio's intact. 

I see plant sellers always referring to "High Light" or "Low light" and never know if they are referring to intensity, duration, both, etc. It seems like a huge amount of room for interpretation. 

 

****Meant to post this in the other Fluval Settings thread from @Streetwisethat has been running a long time...Not sure how to move it or delete it...Moderator please help. 

 

 

Edited by PlaneFishGuy
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