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Road to the AGA Dutch Style Competition/Ended


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On 1/5/2022 at 10:04 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

The good news:

I'm down to 10 species and I think the street is coming in nicely. I will adjust the curve a bit, I think it's too extreme. I'm removing the Bacopa, back right, and putting in a Hygrophila species. Also, the Belem is coming out (this takes the tank to 9 species) and I removed the Helferi. I put Purple Repens in that will be my foreground/ carpet. The little green plant in the forward area is only there temporarly, It melts in my 75 and I'm trying to save it. So ignore them. Trying Wallichii in the back left but it is on the chopping block as it could be a rule breaker.

If you look at the left foreground, I added some extra Purple Repens. See it's normal color versus the same plant covered in GDA just behind it! Wow, right!

For what it's worth I think your composition has vastly improved. I don't think there is too much of a curve in your street, it looks about right to me. I think if you move the nymphaea a touch to the left and moved the walichii to where the spatulata is, your focal points would be pretty much perfect. 

I would then put the staurogyne spatulata in the back right, the"formal" upright stems would contrast well with the wild look of the juncus repens. It also has great contrast with light green/yellow of the limnophila aromatica "mini". A light green hygrophila coymbosa varietal would be perfect for back left, since it would offer color contrast with the vallisneria, staurogyne "purple", and wallichii.

Very exciting to see your vision come together. Have you started working on a moss wall yet?

 

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On 1/5/2022 at 2:21 PM, Patrick_G said:

Keep at it! Once those plants grow out a bit more the GDA won’t stand a chance. 
What’s going on with the Nymphaea? Is the GDA actually causing the necrosis in that leaf? 

I think that's just from being moved too much. But being covered in dust can't help, right!

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On 1/5/2022 at 3:40 PM, gjcarew said:

I don't think there is too much of a curve in your street, it looks about right to me. I think if you move the nymphaea a touch to the left and moved the walichii to where the spatulata is, your focal points would be pretty much perfect. 

Should I shift the base of the street a bit left along with the Nymphaea? And it's okay to have the pink color of the Wallichii mostly center?

On 1/5/2022 at 3:40 PM, gjcarew said:

Have you started working on a moss wall yet?

Waiting on this algae problem to resolve, then I will start it.

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On 1/5/2022 at 2:54 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Should I shift the base of the street a bit left along with the Nymphaea? And it's okay to have the pink color of the Wallichii mostly center?

Waiting on this algae problem to resolve, then I will start it.

It looks like you might have to shift the street a bit. You can always make the street wider or skinnier so it's not exactly centered.

 The staurogyne is not dead center, and neither would the wallichii be. The idea is that you don't want something that visually divides the tank in half, but that doesn't mean you can't have groups near the center.

 

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On 1/5/2022 at 4:25 PM, gjcarew said:

It looks like you might have to shift the street a bit. You can always make the street wider or skinnier so it's not exactly centered.

 The staurogyne is not dead center, and neither would the wallichii be. The idea is that you don't want something that visually divides the tank in half, but that doesn't mean you can't have groups near the center.

 

Awesome, thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I installed the moss wall and I'm probably going to regret doing it now. I'm still having GDA problems and now I'm getting a filamentous outbreak. I've dropped my light intensity again and I'm pushing the CO2 a bit further. So maybe this will help some? I also saw some BBA today too.

I'm not sure I will keep the Wallichii, however, it is coming in nicer than last week. The problem is, to push the pink colors, I will have to pump my light and I'm not sure that's a direction I should go with this tank. I might have to reassess the Spatulata also, but I just love this plant and I really want it in the scape. I'm thinking I moved a few plants too many times causing my lily to stop growing completely. Luckily, I have a bulb starting to push some growth out in my wife's tank. 

I have all 14 of my Harlequins in the tank now and I have 6 Oto's in QT. They seem to be doing well and are going to be the total of my stocking for the competition.

Some plant swap options will be Didiplis Diandra for the Wallichii, Barclaya for the dwarf lily (probably too big and similar near the curtain) and no idea what I would use in place of the Spatulata.

Overall, I'm getting more nervous about making this tank happen in the time I have. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being satisfied, I'm about a 5 with this tank. Too many unknowns with this aquasoil. And nothing but problems so far. I'm way out of my comfort zone here.

Again, ignore the plant just left of the street, its going back into the 75 next week. 

 

Edit Moss Wall.jpg

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This was my tank one month before taking the final picture last year. I had just installed the moss walls, none of the groups were the correct size/shape, and I was still swapping out species. You can definitely have a scape ready by September. 

6c3e34170feca943b0364ab574356e34.jpg

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On 1/22/2022 at 11:11 AM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:

What a pretty plant the Wallichii is, that will turn pink?

If I am able to get it healthy and if the tank will let me increase light intensity, it will turn pink.

 download.jpg.50930236f89bbc34a6b17997b9c20c46.jpg

Here's some healthier Wallichii, it can get better than this too.

On 1/22/2022 at 11:11 AM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:

...on another note, your Harlequins seem to weather the constant changes of the tank pretty good eh?

Harlequins are hearty for sure and do well from my experience with them. To give you some background on how I'm doing things and to put perspective on parameters; I will throw some numbers out.

This tank sits at 145 TDS, That's 5dGH and 0dKH, I front load my water coming into the tank to (is pre fertilized) 12ppm NO3, 5ppm PO4 and 30ppm K. I dose Micro's every three days into the tank directly. When I mix the water the final TDS is 136. I then heat that water to 77 degrees, and the tank sits between 75.8 and 76.5 degrees. I've found as the water flows through the hose it cools about one degree. As you can see, the TDS is nearly identical and the temperature is matched. Outside of moving things around, this tank is pretty consistent where it matters. This is also how I can do near 90% water changes twice a week with no worries.

I did some reading yesterday and I'm making a switch on how I will fertilize. I'm sure you've heard of the  EI method and ADA method. The 2Hr aquarist, Mr. Wong, has a line of fertilizer know as APT. He falls into the middle of the 2 methods above, not too rich and not too lean. So I have made a solution similar to his recommendations and I will dose Macros 4xweek and Micros 3xweek. I mixed a solution that will dose 2.5ppm NO3, 1.25ppm PO4, .25ppm Mg and 2.41ppm K.

2.5x4(doses)=10ppm NO3

1.25x4(doses)=5ppm PO4

.25x4(doses)=1ppm Mg

2.41x4(doses)=9.64+KNO3+K2HPO4=18ppm K (accounting for the K in KNO3 and K2HPO4)

I'm removing the DTPA Fe from my micro dosing and will just use the CSM+B and keeping the dose to .4ppm Fe (proxy). My water sits at 4.75pH under CO2 load. The EDTA will fully dissolve in these conditions.

Hopefully, running leaner and letting the soil do the work will help me get through this algae phase. I also just want to see what happens!

Edited by Mmiller2001
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So to sum up from what I understand, for you doing a water change is almost like not doing one at all and the parameters and dosing are consistent enough there's no real disruption with the Rasboras....only when you're pulling plants out or trimming might they be a bit perturbed? Do yours swim from you? Mine are not fans of my hands though I'm in the tank every day and have never touched them. The fertilizers and other supplements do not seem to effect the fish? 

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As far as parameters go, yes, the incoming water matches outgoing water. However, this removes excess organics in the water. The truth is, excess organics trigger algae. You also can't test for them. They contribute to micro bursts in ammonia and feed algae. These "micro burst" as I like to call them won't show up on your tests. Also from my reading, they don't necessarily participate in nitrification, but can still be utilized by algae. Apparently, these "organics" come in many forms. some react and some don't.

My Harlequins are quite active and love swimming into my python ever chance they get. These buggers like to assault my hand when I'm in the tank. They are bold for sure. 

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Ah, that makes total sense (the organics) being food for the algae. 

I'm always hesitant to use fertilizers in my tanks- my plants seem to do ok of course they could do better- but I'm not in a competition bracket for anything. However thanks for telling me they don't negatively effect them, while I "know" that in a way I still have hang ups about them so hearing that helps. 

Your Harlequins are super "red" like mine are so they must be really happy with their environment. How many are in there? I have 10- they are scaredy fish. I should put my hands in more often and see if that changes it. 

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On 1/22/2022 at 12:46 PM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:

Ah, that makes total sense (the organics) being food for the algae. 

I'm always hesitant to use fertilizers in my tanks- my plants seem to do ok of course they could do better- but I'm not in a competition bracket for anything. However thanks for telling me they don't negatively effect them, while I "know" that in a way I still have hang ups about them so hearing that helps. 

Your Harlequins are super "red" like mine are so they must be really happy with their environment. How many are in there? I have 10- they are scaredy fish. I should put my hands in more often and see if that changes it. 

14 total.

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On 1/22/2022 at 11:52 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

From my reading, it's very good! Report in after trying it!

I asked Cory about similar products that could be added to the Easy Green line. He said probably not, but if enough folks show interest then who knows. He did mention the possibility of an auto doser. For lazy people like me that would be very helpful! 

Edited by Patrick_G
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