nabokovfan87

307 - 1150L (303 GPH) 407 - 1450L (383 GPH) .... increase of 20% over 307 FX2 - 1800L (475 GPH), .... increase of 36% over 307 Ultimately you're looking at a very slight jump in pump circulation. One of the weird issues that is overlooked is that a 55G is that it's a 4 foot tank. It's very hard to have a single input / output and to have that fully circulate the entirety of the tank. I have no idea why the filters would be marketed for 330-500L, but the point here is that the shape of that aquarium matters as well. (87-132 gallons) If you decide to get the spraybar kit then you're looking at... https://fluvalaquatics.com/us/shop/product/spray-bar-kit-for-06-07-canister-filter-15-30-30-76-cm x07 series: 30 inches long (2 sections) https://fluvalaquatics.com/us/shop/product/spray-bar-kit-for-fx-series-canister-filters FX series: Extendable from 25-55″ / 64-140 cm (3 sections) The main difference you're going to have to manage for your choice is the height of the 407 vs. the 307 and the general bulk of the FX2 vs. the 307.

I'm assuming the methodology is similar to this....? What a neat thing to find. 🙂

3m has a few under sink designed filtration systems as well. The main issue with the fridge is going to be capacity. Yes, it might filter said things out, but adding carbon to your HoB is pretty much equivalent. Keep the sponge filter in the tank, keep the HoB as well. In the Hob add carbon. That's pretty much the only real way, apart from ammonia absorbing chemicals, to counter this. Because there is ammonia in the tap, the best case is always going to be to condition the water beforehand. Given smaller setups this is easier and can just be done via off-gassing. Needless to say, I understand and empathize with all of your frustrations. Unfortunately losing fish is normal and it is part of the process here. The fish arrive to you highly stressed from a variety of factors. They go from the breeding facility and the care there can be on the range of amazing down to pretty detrimental. Genetics can play a role here as well. Stress from the ammonia in the tapwater is also going to play a role here in added stress. Oxygenation, dechlorinator, preconditioning the water via off-gassing all play a role here in minimizing those issues. Unfortunately/fortunately there are a lot of hobbyists who have ammonia in their tapwater. Via ammonia or chloramines there are methods to overcome this sort of an issue. The number one thing you need is to have very strong filtration capacity. Something like floating plants, fast growing stem plants, etc. can also turn a tank around when you have high ammonia. Hopefully we can help and get the hobby to an enjoyable point for you. Try to find a solution for the puzzle and maybe it's as simple as letting water sit before it goes into the tank in a holding container of some kind. What are your test results for everything for the tank itself?

so weird! I would think it's maybe something in the food potentially. Very strange. Hopefully with water changes and/or the carbon it just takes care of itself.

It's still the best warranty / pump you can buy and it's not even close. It's a complicated issue. The tidal works for certain situations, but it works much more effectively as a filter modded. "tier 1" of my mods in the thread is pretty easy and can be done in a very short time. No major changes to the filter and it's very easy to accomplish. I understand the frustration and dislike from @Pepere on the tidal, but I don't regret mine. I wish it had some improvements, ABSOLUTELY, but I can say the same thing of every filter available, canisters included. Nothing is without flaw.

It really depends on the pellet and the food in question. I have one that says 1 per 3, I've seen 1 per 5, and I have a new food that says 1 per 20 shrimp. If you want to take photos or share the brand of food I can see what I can find. 1 per shrimp would essentially be for very small 0.5mm pellet sized food. Correct! This is the parameters I'm running for my colony. I even have some culls in a tank with lower PH, but it still has the KH and GH accordingly. The 75G I have with the culls has active substrate which did absorb some of the KH initially, but things are normalized now. Yeah, I totally understand this. One way to clarify things is to really dive deep into what GH, KH, and PH are, but I'll explain a bit here also. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh Hardness is usually synonymous with GH. KH is usually synonymous with alkalinity. So when someone says "hard water" they really mean GH. The confusion here is that caridina shrimp want low KH (alkalinity) and neocardidina shrimp need some KH. They BOTH need similar GH levels for the sake of the shell deterioration. Although, caridina shrimp can usually handle a slightly lower GH range than neocaridina shrimp. Caridina Shrimp: Neocaridina shrimp: In the notes above. ~6 GH is acceptable for both types of shrimp. Note the difference in PH (i.e. KH) as well for each type. I would guess 3-6 months or so. More advanced or experienced keepers can probably get it down to 1-2 months using components from other tanks, but it definitely takes time, months, for a tank to fully establish itself.

No rush at all. Plenty of time 🙂

Welcome to the forums! Happy to have you here. 🙂 Very interesting issue. I would think that it was wood / tannins, but I don't see any wood in the tank or botanicals. The other thought is that when water has that sort of a tinge maybe it's ammonia or bacterial. What is the ammonia and nitrate levels in this tank? For starters my recommendation would be to add some carbon to the filtration if you can. Also take a look at the mod thread I have in my signature regarding "phase 1" fixes which amounts to adding a piece of foam in the large cutout in the basket and will slightly help to encourage better filtration mechanically. As a sidenote, you will have a slightly better experience if you can raise the water level just a little bit with the tidal. It'll give you a little better circulation, run quieter, and give you more surface agitation (not splashing) which means higher oxygenation.

A lot of cypranidae species of fish will do well in that tank and setup. This includes a lot of barbs, danio, rasbora, loaches, and sharkminnows. Also mentioned above corydoras tend to do really well at that temperature also. Which white clouds specifically, something like celestial pearl danios, emerald green rasbora (axelrodi), melon barbs, odessa barbs, cherry barbs, hasbrosus corydoras, clown pleco, otocinclus, and amano shrimp would be where I start.

Something about necessity being the father of invention.... yeah.

I had a 75G setup with an aquaclear 110 filter. For whatever reason every single time I unplugged the thing it literally ended with a trip to the local big box store to exchange it for one where the pump would turn on. EVERY. TIME. After a few months of this and 2-3 exchanges I ended up with 2 spare impellers and a few spare shafts just in case I could try a new one and have it work to get the pump going. We all are aware of the "trick" of needed to start the impeller sometimes and then the pump will run fine. I've had other aquaclears, but for whatever reason the 110 was my nemesis. I did not have a spare filter at the time as my AC70 didn't fit the tank rim and my Tidal 55 wasn't big enough to fit either. Anyways, frustration building, I'm trying to simply clean the filter and turn it back on. It's stuck. I cannot figure out why it won't go and it's the normal song and dance. I have the pump out for the 5-8th time which is extremely annoying because then I have to dismount it from the HoB itself by draining it. I grab a pair of pliers and a new shaft (the one internally appeared to be worn and this was after one month of use). I turn on videos to try to help understand exactly how to remove the shaft. Pretty straight forward just yank it out carefully. I pull one way and the pump that weighs a lot slips in my hand. Despite holding it with a towel and everything, just slips. It happens. I try to catch it and just watch in slow motion as the pump lands on the floor RIGHT ON the lip where it screws into the HoB container. Needless to say enough was enough and I haven't had the desire to mess around with an AC since. The pump went into the trash and that filter went with it. (not a review, there's more to say) ....but then I had to figure out how on earth to get a filter on this tank and nothing was available in my area. Not even sure what I did, honestly, I know I stared at the 407 filter a lot, but ended up with a pair of tidal 75s. I haven't been happy with that either, which led to the mod project but at least I can perform maintenance now! This is why I always enjoy having an air stone in the tank when the pumps are off for maintenance. Sometimes stuff happens and it just takes forever to fix something.

Old vs new I'll check on the shrimp again today. I'm looking specifically for how the food is doing and how much is left given the time. Essentially, did I feed too much or have I finally managed to feed the right dose. In the photo above. The top is labelled at 1 per 3 shrimp and the bottom is labeled as 1 per 20 shrimp. Here's the latest: ^^Gojira going crazy on a piece of alder cone. This is the feeding dish after a few hours, 6 or so. You can see the state of the food and how broken down it is. You can see the "fines" here and that's the chunks that break off for the shrimp outside of the feeding dish and the smaller shrimp to go ahead and graze on. For whatever reason that isn't something I was seeing with the old food. The size above, you can see it's really easy for one shrimp to just run off with that bit of food. Hikari makes theirs in little balls/granules, which is something I do enjoy as a feeding size for shrimp. It's really easy then to just do 1 ball per shrimp (or something similar to that). At some point though the granule is so small you're somewhat feeding a powdered food? Maybe, not entirely though. Riddick in her tank, using the dish on some repashy. She is able to eat a little better with the dish, thankfully. One day the plan is to toss some shrimp into this tank. Hopefully she can learn to share the dish.

Ya'll are just making me want to play the bird game!

It's going to be a good fry food I would imagine for just about anything. It's all based around increasing good gut biology in the animals which then helps with immunity towards diseases.

Shoot... What is the agenda for today. 🤔 Well I have to just monitor the fish. Nothing too difficult. I should move some fish, but I think I need to give them a bit of recovery time. Biggest chore of the day is to feed the shrimps.

https://aquariumbreeder.com/blue-tiger-shrimp-detailed-guide-care-diet-and-breeding/ This is one of my go-to sources for shrimp information. I would try to setup na bigger tank in future when you can. Larger tank is more dilution, which means more stable parameters long term.

I'm definitely excited! I need all the help I can get on spawning these ones! I tried to setup the same exact thing originally, ended up losing far too many. I'm looking forward to adding more once I can sell some (and then add in a new batch). I got mine originally off of aquabid from 2 different sellers. That's awesome. One bit of advice I watched recently was about how they like new surroundings and that tends to trigger them as well. Whenever I move them to a new tank they definitely get a bit more active. I'm excited for you, waiting for the journal! Congratulations on the colony and hopefully they both do well for you.

It can take anywhere from ~2 days up to 10 days. It's all variable. There isn't a hard and fast rule. Congratulations on the colony expansion though, that's really cool. It's one of my favorite things is seeing a baby corydoras just appear. Welcome to the forums 🙂

This was 100000% the reason I started exploring food options. It's much like plants and fish care, the more you dive in the more you feel there is to learn. Getting into Neos has been rewarding, surprising, and I'll stand by what I said way back when.... shrimp are awesome. They are such interesting things to sit and watch do their thing. I really enjoy the amano shrimp, but the dwarf fancy shrimp are a whole new world and it's been interesting. A few more "notes" on ingredient items. Take it with a grain of salt as this is directly from a food manufacturer's website. (not one that makes the foods above) These three items seem pretty awesome additives for a shrimp food.

CC @Beardedbillygoat1975 as well 🙂

entirely understandable. There is the added benefit of larger / smaller sizes, but it's also just different flavors. Spawn and grow I think is one I'd love to try, but it's no longer on the co-op site. I've never had a fish be upset with repashy. Take that for what you will. Especially the bottom feeders or fish that will eat off the bottom, it's a great food.

for a 20G, I would do 1-3 otos.

I was gonna say..... looks like leeches to me, not planaria.

Hello @Janet C. Welcome to the forums. I don't know of samples being sold anywhere. You can get small sizes from the repashy website itself. I just buy the bottles available from the co-op. Some flavors they don't have on offer anymore. Of note, you can't go wrong with soilent green. It's a very good all around food for basically everything you have. Community blend also will do well and is just a generic gel food that is of high quality.