Zac

If this is a new issue that would be odd. Did the pond undergo any changes before they got sick?

It’s important to do a lot of research before you get fish. As like you would any other animal. They’re not a creature you can put in a tank and leave alone. Guppies are surface dwellers. Meaning they like to swim at the surface. If you don’t already have an ammonia spike…you will soon. Ammonia is produced by fish, snails, decaying matter etc. You need beneficial bacteria to break it down into nitrites, then nitrites to nitrates. The co-op has articles about the nitrogen cycle and how it’s important to establish a colony of beneficial bacteria. There are also dozens of articles out there about cycling a tank. Your best bet is to stop feeding the fish or feed them ever so lightly. You need to invest in a good test kit like the api master freshwater kit. This allows you to test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Anything above 0ppm for nitrites and ammonia is stressful for fish and can kill them. Fish can tolerate higher nitrate levels. Most people keep their tanks under 40ppm. You will most likely have to do 50% water changes daily until ammonia drops to 0. It takes about a month or longer for a tank to cycle. You can add a dose of a product called fritzyme 7 in your tank to help boost the cycle. When starting a new tank (especially a 10 gallon) you really want to cycle the talk with only snails or something like that. There are an abundance of articles and videos out there explaining how to properly start up a tank. I’d suggest going to those resources. There’s a lot to learn. More of your fish will unfortunately suffer until you give them the proper conditions

If it the fin deteriorates more and develops a black, white, or red coloration. Also if the fish’s behavior changes. It looks like a nipped fin to me. As long as the waters clean it should heal fine

I’d say it’s too soon to decide especially if you don’t know if it’s new or not. I’d keep an eye on it

It’s probably due to the fact that they weren’t fully submerged when they were grown and weren’t finished “converting” to their aquatic form before you bought them. As long as the leaves are healthy there’s nothing to worry about

Poor thing. I’d say leave the fish and let it heal. You can add salt to the isolation tank too to help prevent infection, along with turning lights down low. Methylene blue acts as a great all in one medication you can apply directly to wounds or add into the water

Otos stay smaller so given your current stocking, I think they would work better. You can throw in blanched veggies for them if there’s no algae

It may be easier to spot treat with liquid carbon like easy carbon or excel. You could also get some Amano shrimp as they eat it. It may be easier on you to that

That’s a good point. There are a lot of bubble eyed goldfish so I didn’t think about that

What was your pH and water hardness?

That’s odd. What’s she eating? Was she acting lethargic at all?

I’d like to go high tech like that at some point when I have more free time. I’d love to create something like that. Maybe some day I’ll be able to😅 This is what mine looks like. Very low tech. Even though I’ve been keeping plants for at least a year now there’s still lots I have to learn

I have a 30 gallon planted tank with anubias, bucephalandra, valisneria, crypt lucens, frogbit, and duckweed. I dose 4mL of easy green twice a week. Given that the tank holds probably 25 gallons after all the decor is accounted for, one of my doses raises the nitrates by a little over 4ppm. I dose on the day I do a 20% water change (Sundays) and then on Wednesday. I’m having trouble keeping my nitrates above 5ppm-10ppm. I’d like them to be around 20ppm. Should I dose extra on the day I do a water change or should I leave it how it is? What does your guys fert schedule look like?

I appreciate your input. Last question…I’d like to get my pH to about 7 since almost anything can thrive in a neutral pH. Should I still add the amount you recommended? Also, how much does your kH usually rise when adding coral? Will nerite snails do well in neutral pH? I’d like to get Khuli loaches so I don’t want to raise it too high

I guess my only concern is how much space it would take up in my tank. Since it’s 30 gallons (25 after all the decor is accounted for) that would be about a bag and a half of coral. I’ve never bought it so I’m not sure how big the bags are. Do you know? I’d probably end up trying to hide it in the back by my sponge filter especially since I’d like to get bottom feeders eventually

It seems like you have a large bio load for that tank. I think upgrading it would help because of how many fish there are. Do you have an image of what the water looks like?

I have a Kh around 5. Should I invest in some crushed coral to raise it along with the pH? I suppose I’ve never been too concerned since I’ve never had a pH stability issue. I guess it makes sense now though

Hey all, So my tap water has a pH of 6.8ish My tank water has a pH of 6.6ish due to the driftwood I have in there My tank water is also hard at 12dGh I do have a colony of guppies in there that I’ve had for probably at least a year. I have lost a lot over time due to unknown causes. Maybe 15 or so. They’re never showing any signs of disease other than acting lethargic. It’s mostly the females but I’ve lost a couple males. For example, right now I have a juvenile female and a male just floating at the top not really eating, but all the other fish are completely fine, including my dwarf gourami. I have an airstone in an aquarium coop filter running a pretty high amount of air so oxygenation shouldn’t be an issue here. Temperature is 78. Ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and nitrates is 10-15ppm. And the tank has lots of floating plants and lots of hiding spaces (picture attached) Could pH be a contributing factor to this? Or could it be just weak genes causing some to die in a colony? Or maybe once in a while a guppy will just simply rest? Also I have some nerite snails coming in the mail. I’ve read anything above pH of 6 is good as long as calcium is present. But some people swear at least 7. I plan on adding wondershells semi regularly to supplement their calcium…thoughts?

If you really wanted to you could put some duct tape around it or superglue it😅 Maybe the tubing is just old and new tubing would work also?

I’m starting to get green spot algae as well on my anubias. I noticed it starting when I turned my light on an extra 10% brightness for an extra hour daily. My lights only on 7hrs per day tho which is odd. I’m going to get some Amano shrimp and nerite snails and hope that helps. Nerite snails are supposedly able to get rid of green spot algae pretty quickly. I’d suggest investing in some as well. Remember it takes about 2 weeks to see any changes once tank conditions are adjusted. Rather than dimming it, maybe try an hour less per day. You can also dose easy carbon or excel if you don’t have any plants like valisneria If you really want to you can try the blackout method for a couple days…but there’s a risk in stressing your plants

I’d consider 11 small fish in an uncycled tank pushing it a little bit. I think like 5 or 6 smal fish would be good to start. Don’t worry too much and also don’t over stress and do too much. That’ll make things worse. Take things slow and all will be okay 🙂

Otos won’t eat hair algae. Especially if it’s long. You’d be better off getting 5 Amano shrimp. If you want otos you should get 6. But it depends on how many other fish you have, but 6 would be the minimum

You could always use a sponge filter for low current. I have one in my 29 gallon and it works just fine. I don’t notice any dead zones in my tank. I love frogbit. It’s amazing at cleaning water. You just need to make sure to expose it to little/no flow. I use a plant ring to surround the area that the sponge filter sends bubbles to at the surface. That way there’s still oxygenation without moving my plants around. Other easy plants are valisneria, anubias, and cryptocoryne. Although crypts and Val won’t clean the water much because they’re root feeders. Sand is the best substrate in my opinion. Fish waste can settle and work its way into the sand to trap it. Then plants can take up the nutrients. Another thing to keep in mind is that when your ammonia is 0, that means there’s enough bacteria to handle the current fish in the tank. If suddenly, there’s a large bio load added, your current cycle won’t be enough if that makes sense. Most cycles in an established tank can handle a small increase in bio load. But it’s sudden, large increases that cause issues I doubt it was the frogbit that caused pH issues unless you added a ton. I have frogbit and duckweed and don’t have any pH issues. If you added any shells that can increase pH. A large amount of dissolved oxygen without anything to consume it may increase pH like in blood. But I doubt that’s the case as well. Your KH is about the same as mine. Mines about 5 and it’s been enough to prevent pH swings. That’s odd to me that you’re having pH issues

It sounds like things are a bit rushed to me. I wouldn’t have added any fish when theres ammonia presents. Even if it’s .5 because that alone can be stressful. Even with fritzyme 7 your cycle can take a month or so to finish. I cycled my tank with plants. I took care of them for about a month or so before adding any fish and the fish were fine (one died from shipping stress but that’s besides the point). Once you have well established plants, there’s going to be a fair amount of beneficial bacteria, especially if you had any melting when adding the plants first. Any extra ammonia from adding a small amount of fish will easily be taken care of. After that, you can add a little bit more fish, then a little more, etc. My guess is it’s a crash/incomplete cycle. If you feed the fish lightly you can do a fish-in cycle. Just be careful to not over feed. Also be careful about an explosion in guppy population because an uncycled tank won’t be able to handle it

Red blotches usually mean bacteria. I’m guessing the condition is pretty serious if it’s been going on for 2 weeks. You’re best bet is to quarantine if you have space and to treat with antibiotics like Maracyn and aquarium salt