Stef

Want to pick your brains. I’m upgrading my 3rd and final 3 gal betta tank to a 10 gal. The 3 gal is planted with black sand (Imagitarium) and has been running for close to a year. The new 10 gal will have Seachem Flourite black. My thought was to use the old sand with good bacteria as the first layer and then add the new flourite on the top. Thinking this would ease new tank syndrome. Will the sand eventually creep upwards or interfere with the flourite’s benefits? My plants do well in the other 10 gals on just the flourite. I also have a spare sponge filter running in another tank getting it ready for the new tank. Thoughts?

My betta will literally lay on top of the oto’s zucchini or algae wafer and stand guard.

Did another test this morning and after shaking the heck out of the nitrate bottles and tubes, nitrates still zero or maybe 2.5 ppm. Attached photo of tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Very clear video. Thanks. I haven’t seen this quite as clear in mine. My larger snail completely covers the smaller one, blocking what’s going on under the shell.

Thanks all. Interesting on the test kit shaking. I shake but just a quick 3-4 times. Will try more shaking. Also the tank did cycle about 3 weeks ago. It had seriously high levels of ammonia, then came high nitrites and high nitrates. I did daily big water changes 70% for several days. Then magically zeros. As for the algae on plants, will try the toothbrush trick. I pulled one out and used one of those blue glass cleaner/sponges but it is stuck on there good. Ugh. And may try a few nerites. Thanks!!

Sorry for the random questions, but I gotta know: Background: I have 4 nano tanks. A 3 gallon with just a small mystery snail. Another 3 gal with just a male betta. A 5 gal with a male betta and two mystery snails, and a 10 gal with a male betta and two otos. All four tanks are planted and well cycled. Random question 1: All four tanks water test with 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates using API master kit. I do weekly water changes At 30-40%. The 5 gal with the betta and 2 snails gets extra poopy since the snails are large, so I probably do more of a 50% water change as I gravel vac thoroughly. Aren’t I supposed to have some nitrates? Should I skip a week of water changes? Or are all zeros Nirvana? Random question 2: The plants in my 10 gal with 1 betta and 2 otos are loaded with green algae (thick like tennis ball fuzz). Do the otos not like it? Thought they’d make quick work of it but maybe I’m being impatient. They’ve only been in there for a week. The plants are vals, java’s, anubias, swords. Seriyu stones are getting coated too. Nicrew light is on for 6 hrs tho not on a timer. Do I need to supplement the otos with some algae wafers or blanched zucchini? They seem healthy, happy and have full bellies. Random question 3: In the 5 gal betta tank with two snails, the snails always seem to be “gettin it on”. The larger snail will completely engulf the smaller one. There’s been no eggs. I don’t want babies and keep the water level up. Just curious if this behavior is actual mating or something else. I’ve had the snails for about a year. Random question 4: In the 3 gals I am using the tanks’ built in filter that utilizes cartridges. Both are Marineland contours. I want to stop changing the cartridges because isn’t that stuff gold? I’d like to just swish them in tank water to de-gunk them. Does anyone else do this and re-use the “seasoned” cartridges? I’m assuming they’re gonna have to be swapped out at some point but what do you think is the max life span? The cartridges are the small z size. Appreciate any and all comments.

I'm sure this has been answered a zillion times, but couldn't easily find the answer on the forum. I preparing to upgrade my Betta's 3 gallon to a 9 gallon. I have the future new sponge filter running in another older, fully cycled 5 gallon tank. My question is about how long does it usually take for the new sponge filter to get "seasoned" with beneficial bacteria from the older tank so that when I set up the new 9 gallon, I've got a chance of avoiding new tank syndrome? Does there have to be visible gunk?

I just upgraded one of my three betta tanks from a 3 gallon to a 10 gallon. My betta is finally enjoying his roomy 10 gallon. My question is whether I should dismantle the small 3 gallon or keep it running as a future hospital tank? I have three betta tanks now and don’t plan on more, but knowing the beneficial bacteria in it is gold, I’m hesitant to take it down. It helped to establish the 10 gallon. It has a few plants, moss balls and a mystery snail. If I keep it, the snail would stay to keep it cycled. If not keeping, then I’d reunite the snail with his betta in the 10 gallon. So is there anyone with multiple bettas that keeps an “empty” spare tank?

Appreciate the tip. A small sponge filter has been running in the 2.5 gallon tank with the flow turned down, but since he’s mostly on the surface on his side he bobs along with the popping bubbles. He’s got both sbd and fin rot. Treating with kanaplex and betta revive. He’s pooping so not sure what’s causing sbd.

Anyone ever treat a betta in a hospital tank without using any type of filter? He seems really bothered by the smallest surface agitation.

Hi, I'm new to this forum and am experiencing similar SBD with my betta but with a combo of fin rot too. I'm wondering if Ben_RF was successful with treatment(s) and what were they. I started treating my betta with a combo round of MetroPlex and MelaFix while he was in his 5 gal planted tank. I did this for a week with no success. I'm now on a second round of MetroPlex and BettaRevive but I moved him to a 2.5 gallon quarrantine tank (for the snails' and plants' sake). The quarrantine tank is heated and has a nano sized sponge filter. The betta seems even more miserable in the 2.5 gallon and the sponge filter is giving off a lot of bubbles even tho it was modifided with an air stone and a control valve. I'm curious if anyone has ever treated a betta in a hospital tank without filtration to keep the surface calm? My betta mostly lays on his side at the surface except when eating. The only thing going for him is his voracious appetite. He eats pre-sofened (in tank water) Hikari Betta Bio Gold pellets and frozen blood worms.