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Paul

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Posts posted by Paul

  1. @Jim TNyour choice of tanks will depend on what you want to spend on it. You can get an Aqueon 29 at Petco during the $1 a gallon sale for less than $35  tax included or if you want to go the acrylic route then price tag will be over $250. I also recommend some sort of lid. I’ve used Fritzyme along with a sponge from another tank to get the cycle moving with good success. I run sponge and hob filters in my smaller tanks 20L, 29, and 40 breeder. Before you commit to plants make sure the fish are compatible with plants , some like them too much and make a meal out of them and others just want to keep ripping them out of the substrate. Since the 29 is a tall tank you’ll need a fairly strong light if you want to grow foreground plants successfully. Prices for these will be all over the place from about $40 to $100+. The Finnex Stingray 2.0 is a good mid priced option that provides good light without a lot of bells and whistles. Good luck. 
     

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  2. I found that visual barriers tend to keep the aggression between the love birds at a much lower level. With that being said if your male insists on visiting Mommy Dearest no amount of visual barriers are going to keep the fins from flying.

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  3. 1 hour ago, RyanR said:

    Wow and I thought I had a lot.

    Well my fish can never complain about getting fed the same thing day after day. I keep a wide variety of fish from Pencilfish with incredibly small mouths to 5" Discus. I have food for the cleanup crew of Cory's, Otto's and SAE. The medicated foods get fed to fish in quarantine. So I keep a few different types of food to keep them all happy.

  4. Here goes Xtreme krill flakes, Hikari Vibra Bites and Algae Wafers, Discus pellets from Germany, Sera ONip tablets (the old yellow container} two sizes of Cobalt pellets, 2 different New Life Spectrum medicated pellets, Ocean Nutrition discus flakes, San Francisco Bay freeze dried tubifex and brine shrimp, frozen brine shrimp, bloodworms, and beef heart, BBS and Aqeuon flakes (2) varieties and pellets (2 varieties) that they sent me as a mea culpa for having to have a 1/2 inch cut off one the panels of their 40 gallon breeder lids so it would fit one of their 40 gallon breeders. Some get fed to the fish more than others but they all get used.

     

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  5. 1 hour ago, akconklin said:

    So sorry I'm just now responding, @Paul.  Thank you for your answer!

    Do you know if enameled metal is ok? I'm thinking probably not, but I don't know for sure.

    I wouldn't trust any enameled metals. They could be made from pot metal which is made of any number of metals melted together (in other words there's no recipe) and then poured into a mold. So there's no telling what effect water will have on it or what effect it will have on fish if chipped or scratched.

    • Thanks 1
  6. @SaltinthedesertI've got a group of 7 Nanacarra in a 29 gallon that have become bunch of killers. The casualty list includes Cory's, Cardinal and Rummynose Tetras. Once I saw a tetra floating with it's head bitten off I pulled all the remaining fish out. The Nanacarra have the tank all to themselves and all they do now is hide in the rocks. 

    With all that being said the other dwarf cichlids I keep live relatively peaceful lives. The smallest group is 5 A.nijsseni and the largest is 12 Kribs. There will be some chasing around, they are cichlids after all.

  7. @MaxMI think if you can't keep your parameters stable (ammonia spikes for example) no matter what you do you've probably overstocked the tank. If you keep African lake cichlids overstocked tanks are a way of life. If they're not living in close quarters the aggression levels go off the charts. 

  8. There's coarse sponges and then there are coarse sponges. I have some Marineland Penguin Pros that I was using the Marineland course intake sponge on and I found that every 10 days +/- due to reduced flow I'd have to pull the intake sponges to clean them. I swapped them out for the coarse CoOp sponges and I'm now going about a month + between cleanings. 

  9. @Williamirish16I've got a 40 breeder stocked much heavier than that with no issues with the water quality (2 filters) so live stock wise you should be fine. I've kept A. caucatodies with GB Rams in the same tank successfully, they both even spawned in that tank but they're cichlids after all and even though they're considered "peaceful" there's always one SOB that will try and stir things up so just monitor them. Good luck.

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  10. @subramnIt's personal preference there is no right or wrong answer on this subject. That being said if you do decide to use it one of it's  other benefits is that it kills free swimming  disease causing organisms. There was a very long thread on this topic late last month if your interested. 

  11. 14 minutes ago, Jdogtrainer said:

    I have large rocks, pots and, plants. She disappears a lot to where I can't even,begin to find her. So I think it's ok there. 🙂

    She’s still hiding. If you have the extra cash and can find them I think you should get one or two more females. You’ll be surprised how fast the aggression goes down. I originally got a trio of nijsseni on AquaBid but one of the females died in transit. While I was waiting for her replacement the male’s aggression was off the charts. When I added the replacement fish (I bought another trio) the aggression  basically disappeared. Just my experience.

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  12. I’ve posted about this tank (29g)in the past. A few months ago I found all my Panda Cory’s dead, I replaced them with Julii’s (after quarantine) and they were all dead the next day. Long story short it turns out the “peaceful” Nanacarra’s are killers. They’ve killed Rummynose and Cardinals. So now that I’ve removed all the tetras they stay in the rockwork. I’m looking for suggestions on tougher tank mates to act as dithers for these guys. Temp 82F pH 7.2.

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  13. It’s always best to have more females than males. This way the male can’t direct all of his aggression at one female. I have 5 A.nijsseni (2 males & 3 females) in a 20L each female has her own cave and a large piece of drift wood along with the plants provide plenty of visual breaks. The result is a fairly peaceful tank. There are also Cory’s, Otto’s, and Tetras in the tank.

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  14. I don’t think your going to get a conclusive answer. There are so many variables like foot traffic patterns around the tank, lighting strength and or length of time, activity of tank mates etc it would be difficulty to pinpoint one thing that would cause them to hide. I have Ottos in all my tanks the most being 4 in a 120 and they’re out all the time granted you have to look for them occasionally but they’re out and eating.

  15. 47 minutes ago, aquatoid said:

     

     

    One thing I missed about your reply earlier was the shrimp, do the silvertips leave the shrimp alone? Even if the shrimps would be swimming in the water and not hiding among the plants. 

     

    With these other quotes, how large was the school in these cases? With pet store employee stories it might be really hard to tell. I looked some more into it, and in smaller groups silvertips seem to be a bit bullyish among themselves, not enough targets to spread the aggression from more dominant fishes. And they also might get stressed by the lack of numbers and go nippy because of that. 

    I'm hoping my planned school of 50 or so will keep them happy. Or maybe I will go for 40 and just hope for some spawning 🙂 

    I did look into the lemon tetras, but it seems the lemony bits often are just in the fins, the body is just greyish in most pictures.. I did see some properly yellow lemons too, but that doesn't seem to be the most common variant around.

    There are 10 Silvertip in my school. 

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