Fish Folk

FLU-B: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flubendazole FEN-B: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fenbendazole

Fieryblack Shiner… my NANF favorite…

First off… are your fish Ok?? What are you using to measure your parameters? Test strips? Titration tests (API)? Digital? To me, based on your readings, this does not look like a fully cycled tank. - 11-08-23 to 11-18-23 is a very, very short time frame for adequate colonies of nitrifying bacteria to populate across the surface of everything. Typically, without a really heavy boost, this takes 4-6 weeks. Adding cycled sponge filters, Eco complete (which you did use), wood from an established aquarium, and loads of sponge filter squeezings really jump-starts it. A week, and your tank might be ready to roll in those situations. - Your pH readings are odd, honestly. Your water should _not_ shift abruptly from 8.2 to 7.2 in a single day’s time period. You may need to reassess your testing technique. - If you are still measuring 1.0 ppm Ammonia on the day you’re adding fish, your tank _was never cycled_. - A fully cycled tank will _consistently_ read 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm Nitrite, and anywhere from 20+ ppm Nitrate. Your parameters (if accurately measured) are not there consistently yet. - To have Nitrate nearly zero out is the opposite of a proper cycle.

My old brooders… long in the tooth…

Scots Wha Hae! Please say more about this…

I hope that you get some helpful connections. Unfortunately, there are not very many Europeans on this Forum. @mountaintoppufferkeeper may be able to suggest some feeding tips. He breeds interesting Puffers.

Yes. I use breather bags when shipping small fish, and/or individually bagged fish. Unfortunately, I cannot find large breather bags at a good price point.

I definitely recommend this for Killifish eggs. Neocaridina eat infertile eggs, limiting the growth of fungus. I have never tried it with Ram eggs.

They are unbelievably active…

Yes... this is true. If you use an opaque container they cannot see through, you'll eliminate that issue. I guess I just don't worry about it.

I add 2x Ramshorn Snails after fry are free-swimming. I use flow-through floating fry containers, so water changes are unnecessary…

Yes! I always do add a couple snails with Rams.

I do miss my Betta imbellis. Not to crazy-oddball, but very attractive… Just a hot rod little swamp-fish!

If there is an economic way to drop a 20 gal. 10°-F below room temperature, that would be a game changer for me, especially with Banded Darters…

I need this! Wow! I’m all in for it. Can you dial this back and slow down… explain each component for a complete dummy (me!). I’m not familiar with any of the components, except the inkbird. I’d like “the recipe” 100%.

Some of these may prove difficult to find wherever you’re at, but here are some interesting oddball fish that could work in a 20-gal. I haven’t kept most of these, but other aquarists have. Here’s my “top 5 countdown” with videos of each in aquariums: 5. Apistogramma hongsloi. These are not impossible to find, but very rarely discussed. Absolutely gorgeous Gemstones! 4. Banded Darter (Etheostoma zonale) Here is one species I do keep. They are very easy to buy (check here) but very rarely kept. You need absolutely cold water, lots of flow, and tons of air. The water needs to be kept clean. They need live or frozen foods. 3. Argentine Pearl Killifish (Austrolebias nigripinnis) Hard to find. Live foods are crucial. You want to be a good breeder to get these. They’re not long-lived, but very special. 2. Hummingbird Tetras (Trochilocharax ornatus) In perfect LED lighting, these are beauty beyond compare. A nice school in a beautifully planted tank could virtually make time stand still. 1. Red-tailed Goby (Sicyopterus lagocephalus) Pacific Islands. Needs lots of flow and oxygen. Large stones with photoperiods conducive for green algae growth is appreciated.

I’ve got 5x Ancistrus in this 40 breeder, along with loads of pals. But here is maybe the only time, lights-on, I’ve seen them all visible in one frame…

Looks like something parasitic internal. Has she had white stringy poop? These situations are always sad. In an ideal world, quarantine tank with meds. Be advised . . . the results are not guaranteed, especially if a fish is too far gone before meds even begin. You do want to consider the possibility that there is a health issue in the aquarium itself.

This needs to be tried! I haven’t… but if you do, document it all.

Hitting you up now! Do tell…

I'm always into breeding fish, so I'd try a pair. Maybe add an Aristo cave and some catappa leaves. They might take down a newborn Endler fry once in a while, but that's nature being itself. My son had a lovely Apistogramma agassizii awhile back. Let me see if I can dig up a photo of the male...

This is an excellent question. In my limited experience, sometimes egg laying New World species will treat lights-on / lights-off like mental resets. Cichlids, in particular, sometimes eat eggs / fry when lights go suddenly out and then on. Call me insane . . . but I'd consider maybe doing a full 5-8 pm photo period, but mute the lighting by using something. I do long photo periods (ca. 7 am - 9 pm) but use cupboard liner under lights as a diffuser. Here's a look at how that actually looks in my fishroom...

Decided to do this again. Breeding Betta splendens successfully is on my bucket list. Went to the “box store” and bought a cheap pair. Female has very long fins!

Separate the runners. 'Tis the way of "nature, red in tooth and claw."