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I had a cheap no name heater that glowed like that. Eventually it ended up failing from the seals going bad and water getting inside but I'm not completely sure if that was caused by the element or not. Sorry I can't give more advice other than replace it if it will help you sleep at night.

I think using active substrate and root tabs is overkill if you're not using CO2. This is my 10 gallon with an under gravel filter I've had running for a little under 2 years right after I added the tiger lotus. I only added the tiger lotus recently as I'm using crushed lava rock as a substrate and was waiting for there to be a good level of nutrients built up before adding heavy root feeders. The sword might just be a little too big for an under gravel tank, they can have huge root systems. You might have better luck if you replace some of your heavy root feeders with stem plants.

I've had the opposite experience with keeping them in a small group. I had 3 in my 75 gallon a while back and when they got to adulthood the two largest ones would fight constantly. It unfortunately ended with them scaring each other in the middle of the night, trying to jump out of the water only to hit the glass lid and when I checked on them in the morning they both had passed. The remaining one I have is a great resident though, he hangs out with the corys during feeding and I've never seen any aggression.

I've had good luck with shrimp envy and banquet blocks attracting shrimp. Probably the most shrimp I've ever seen at once is when I add a mulberry leaf to the tank though. I'm lucky enough to have a few trees I can harvest from but I've seen some stores stock them with botanicals as well.

I've had mixed results with anubias and hydrogen peroxide. I've used it a few times with pretty good results but my last rescape I sprayed down a giant clump of anubias golden nana and it decided to melt to nothing after.

I have some I let grow all the way down into the substrate of my 75 gallon. They really love the extra iron from root tabs once they got down there, I could really see the difference in how green they got. You also get the benefit of them being anchored down there instead of all over the tank. The roots grow much slower than the vines, I only needed to get them under control 2 or 3 times a year whereas the other growth needed to be tied up every couple weeks.

I am also a serial fish food tester, I've had great luck with all the new varieties coming out made with black soldier fly larvae, with fluval bug bites cichlid formula being my south american community's favorite food. My most recent batch was northfin and I expected the bug pro wafers to be the favorite but their 1 mm veggie pellets are my cory's current favorite, it sinks to the substrate much faster than other pellets so I don't have to worry about tetras getting too much. I always go back to extreme pellets at least once a week though, everything will eat it even if it's not the favorite.

No trimming on it yet, I can give it a try with one of the ends soon when it makes it's next trip up to the ceiling.

I tried that for a little while but stopped when it started to fall apart, felt sticky, and had some loose fibers start coming off. I think the room it's in may be a little too cold for it to want to root as well.

I used easy green for the first 7-8 months and after switched to my own mixed ferts using the pps pro method. I remember the first month was very slow just getting roots out but after they have been growing fast and they had a second burst of growth when the roots got long enough for me to put them in the substrate and give them root tabs. I've noticed the roots seem to grow best when in direct current of the filter.

So I started these two pothos cuttings almost two years ago and I've finally filled in the four foot section they're on. Unfortunately my hope of them rooting into the coconut coir themselves never really panned out and I've been having to zip tie them on every few weeks. I'm wondering if anyone has had success with any other type of trellis or other setup they could recommend that would be less work from me.

Absolutely, it's pretty much the same as any other gravel. I got mine from a bonsai supply store, has a real nice gradient of colors.

Thanks everyone, hoping it works. Don't have high hopes for the one that hasn't eaten in 2 weeks but the other is just starting to show symptoms and will hopefully recover.

I have a variety of pellets and flakes, also frozen blood worms and repashy. I usually feed twice per day but I think it's been too much since they aren't juveniles anymore. It's just really strange, I can get him to take some things that are moving like blood worms but once it's in his mouth it's like something hurts and he can't eat it. Could it be some kind of blockage? I just don't understand how something like that could spread to others.

I had my first pair in the tank about 3 weeks back but since then no one has been fighting, they broke off and I haven't even seen chasing over territory. I thought it might have been an injury from then but it's been over 2 weeks and a third fish has gotten sick.

The first one that passed did but only towards the end, the 2 that are sick currently will usually be hiding either in plants or a cave.

I've been having a lot of trouble figuring out what is wrong with a few of my angelfish. I've had a group of 6 in the tank for around 7 months and 2 months ago I had one of them stop eating and eventually die. Since then it's spread to 2 more and I'm not sure what exactly is wrong. It's not an issue of them not wanting to eat, they will go for a piece and when they get it in their throat they seem to be in pain, they'll thrash their head around and spit out anything. I can't seem to find a med that helps them, and I've tried a few different meds so far. First I started with Maracyn and salt thinking it could be bacteria as I sometimes see fin damage. I never saw a reaction for the 1 fish that was sick at that time and it eventually passed in the hospital tank around 2 months ago. This last week I've been treating with Prazipro since I can't see any other physical signs and thought in might be an internal parasite, but have had no improvement. As far as parameters my water has been very clean because of all the water changes from meds. When I last checked before a water change on Wednesday I was at 0 for ammonia, nitrites and around 10 for nitrates. My ph has been staying stable in the 6.5 - 6.8 range, my tap water is on the soft side so I use a little crushed coral in my filter to help. I use an inkbird for temp control and it's been at 78 all summer without even needing the heaters to turn on but they would at 76.

Using the app and the light is updated to the latest firmware yup.

I picked up a used nano for a good deal a little while back. I tested it and it turned on and everything appeared to be working well but it seems there might be a problem with the night mode settings. The blue leds don't seem to turn fully off whether in manual or automatic/pro modes. If I use automatic settings and set everything to 0% including the blue it seems to stay on, and the same happens if I enable the sleep timer. Like I said it's used and I got it for a good deal so I'm not too upset if that is something malfunctioning. Just wanted to check with others that those two options should turn the leds fully off.

I mostly had anubias and crypts and only needed the light at about 60%. It will get the job done for a low tech tank with low light plants. Don't have any recent full tank shots, sorry.

I bought the nicrew classicled plus for a 75 last year. First I went with the 36 inch one but it had large shadows on the edges of the tank. I sold it to a friend and got the 48 inch version, it's much nicer. They also sell a timer that connects onto the power cable it let's you adjust brightness a lot more than the controls on just the light, I would definitely recommend it if you do pick up the nicrew.