Will this work?

[Dean’s Fishroom]

So generally I drill all my tanks in the top right back corner for an overflow for my auto water change system. I typically use a 3/4" or 1" bulkhead fitting through the tank and from there into the drain pipes. Inside the tank I use a black elbow fitting cut to the right size or adjusted to the right angle to set my tanks water level. All this works great for me without any issues. 

So what I haven't tried but want/need to is:

I want to drill a second hole for a 1/2" bulkhead about 2" from the bottom of the tank. On the inside there would either be a low profile strainer or a prefilter sponge set up. from the outside I want to go straight into the input of a canister filter. Of course I would have to install a shutoff and disconnect to service the filter. What I'm trying to do is eliminate the siphon tube from inside the tank for a cleaner look, and this could be a precursor to something in the future.

Anybody out there done this? Or, can anybody punch holes in this idea, I don't like water on the floor?
I bought some tanks from the dollar per gallon sale and my glass drill is itching.

 

[MickS77]

That is a great idea. The only thing I can think of is to have the shutoff as close to canister as possible. You could even drill another hole to return the water through a bulkhead, using a loc-line nozzle to direct the flow. No real risk of back siphoning since its a closed system, just have a shutoff on each line for service. On the inlet line you could use that shutoff to do water changes, hook it up to a hose or into a bucket. Hooking it up to the Oase canister with a heater would be perfect.

Edited August 13, 2020 by MickS77

[Mridul Singh]

Sounds good! You can do the same for the return of the canister. The shutoff can also be used to drain the tank (as the hole is at the bottom of the tank), as long as your shutoff valve is at the end of the pipe that is closest to the canister. All you will have to do is shutoff the valve (I would recommend a ball valve over a gate valve), and redirect the pipe to your bucket drain. Hope this helps!

[Daniel]

I do something vaguely similar, the water passes down through a concealed filter strainer through the bottom of the tank.

It then goes through an Iwaki water pump, but I don’t see why this couldn't be a canister filter. It then returns to the tank through a couple of concealed upward pointing nozzles that gently roil the surface of the water. There’s also an in-line heater in the circuit.

Which eliminates most visible plumbing in the tank

I've almost got the tangle of wires above the tank concealed (maybe by end of day)

I have never had water on the floor in 13 years with this configuration.

Edited August 13, 2020 by Daniel

[Bill Smith]

I have drilled holes in the bottom of a tank and run directly to a canister filter, with no problems for years:

Non-tempered, of course:

I know it's not exactly the same position you were describing, but I figure if this works, your notion will work. 

I would say drill away!

Bill

 

[pedrofisk]

It does sound very similar to a standard sump setup except your using a canister filter. The gph will improve with the lower head pressure so that's good.  I think you just want the return a bit away from the overflow right? Would this be in conjunction with a Matten filter?