Moving on up

[wes.crockett]

Hey all,

Been a while, but my 10g has finally been pretty auto-pilot, so my frantic researching and questions have kind of come to a close... until today.

Now that everything seems to be solid in my tank, I want to totally disrupt it! Does anyone know of a resource that discusses how to migrate tanks from a 10g to a 30g? I bought all the stuff for a 75 but decided it's too big and, ultimately, I only want to maintain a single tank. The 75 was going to be for Cichlids. Instead, I'd like to take what I have (6 Black Neon Tetras, 2 Otos, 1 Dwarf Honey Gourami) and put them in a bigger tank and then build out more of a community system over time.

I, obviously, can't simply throw them in a new tank like that though... What would the proper method of transferring the fish, plants, and likely some substrate over to the new tank?

My initial thought was set up the new tank (though IDK how since it needs to go where the old tank is) with new substrate and any net-new plants but incorporate some of the old substrate in to it... let it sit for a week or two and try to match water parameters... then transfer 5 gallons from the old tank over while I acclimate the fish a few at a time to the new tank until all are out of the old one.

Is there a more rapid way to do this without totally putting my fish at risk?? In an ideal world, I'd straight out replace it in one go, but I'm sure that isn't advisable.

Thanks all,

Wes

[Katherine]

On 12/16/2022 at 9:33 AM, wes.crockett said:

In an ideal world, I'd straight out replace it in one go, but I'm sure that isn't advisable.

This is what I would do as long as you plan on using most/ all of the old substrate, plants, decor, and filtration. Use most of the current tank water,  make sure things don't dry out,  and it'll be kind of like a very large water change. Keep an eye on water parameters for a bit but it should be ok.

[wes.crockett]

On 12/16/2022 at 7:49 AM, Katherine said:

This is what I would do as long as you plan on using most/ all of the old substrate, plants, decor, and filtration. Use most of the current tank water,  make sure things don't dry out,  and it'll be kind of like a very large water change. Keep an eye on water parameters for a bit but it should be ok.

I was planning on moving to a canister filter (since my current HOB filter wouldn't handle the load of the new tank) and I probably wouldn't want to use more than 7 or 8 gallons of the old tank water in the 30 gallon since, when you get to the very bottom, it'd end up mostly being VERY dirty water at the bottom of the tank.

My thought was to split the substrate to create that nice transition effect... Use dark soil substrate on the left and right with the old substrate (pebbles) as a middle area.

[Fish Folk]

Here is how I would do this. Mind you, there’s always risks.

(1) Siphon out water from your tank — ca. 4 gallons into a pail. Add a cycled sponge filter if you’ve got one. If not, use a square-shaped pail, and put your HOB on the side. Unplug your heater. Wait a few minutes, then move that in and plug it back in. **Add fish to this pail**

(2) Remove another 2-gallons to another pail. Move all plants into there. Take out Hardscape, gently rinse under tap water if desired, and put hardscape in with plants or fish. Never use soap or chemicals. Never!

(3) Drain down remaining water. Move substrate over to new aquarium. You may want to add additional substrate. I like Activ-Flora and Eco-Complete. But they’re not cheap. Now add as much tank water as possible (without depriving your fish) from the pails, place your filters in, and then add fresh tap water + dechlorinator to fill tank.

(4) Add hardscape. Add plants. Possibly add some sort of beneficial bacteria (e.g. FritzZyme, Dr. Tim’s, etc.). Make sure to add heater, unplugging, moving, replugging, then add fish.

Basic idea: move as much substrate, Hardscape, plants, and filter bio over as possible. Also move as much cycled water as possible. This way, you pretty much start off with a cycled tank from the get-go.

You may find lots of bubbles buildup up on everything in a new tank. Also, the water may be cloudy for a day or more. If you have a QT setup, you can wait longer to add fish.

 

Edited December 16, 2022 by Fish Folk
**Add fish…

[Schuyler]

On 12/16/2022 at 7:57 AM, wes.crockett said:

I was planning on moving to a canister filter (since my current HOB filter wouldn't handle the load of the new tank) and I probably wouldn't want to use more than 7 or 8 gallons of the old tank water in the 30 gallon since, when you get to the very bottom, it'd end up mostly being VERY dirty water at the bottom of the tank.

My thought was to split the substrate to create that nice transition effect... Use dark soil substrate on the left and right with the old substrate (pebbles) as a middle area.

If you're going to do a all in one cut over and you plan on using a canister filter, you could put the canister on your existing tank for a couple weeks but turn it way down. Or at the very least, put some media in your HOB that can be transferred over to seed bacteria.

You could also move your HOB to the new tank for a while after you transition.

Edited December 16, 2022 by Schuyler
Clarity

[Patrick_G]

If you’ve been doing regular water changes on the old tank then theoretically the water parameters will be almost identical in the new tank. Your current filter should have enough capacity to process the waste from the all the current fish so you can just move that over to the new tank. Run it concurrently with the new filter for a month or two and then you can remove it or just leave it. Bringing over all your hardscape and plants will also help keep the cycle stable. 

If you’re running a balanced tank and have not been doing regular water changes then it’s a good idea to do 3-4 25% changes before you move the fish. 

[Beardedbillygoat1975]

Great advice above. I’ve done this probably a dozen times and @Fish Folknailed my method. 

Things to know after this transition- you’ll get algae and bacterial blooms so don’t be surprised if there’s a haze in the tank for a week or more. Bacterial supplements can shorten this but may also extend it as there may be some competition between the cultures. It’s not a big deal. The fish won’t care.It’s more of an aesthetic thing.

Algae as the plants transition to the new substrate and tank situation you may get an algae outbreak thread, hair, diatoms dust algae you may go right back through all the growing pains of before. I find that because the plants are used to the water it’s not as long as in a “new” tank. 

So you’ll see a bunch of new behaviors from the fish which I think is fun. Depending on your stocking the hierarchies in the tank may be challenged. 

It’s a little bit of a challenge but in my mind a good one in the journey of an aquarist. Enjoy and have fun and don’t panic and bring a towel. 

[lefty o]

id go straight to the 75. move all the fish, substrate, decorations, filter over, and add your additional substrate, decor, plants etc. you have in your substrate etc the bacteria needed to process waste for the fish you currently have, you will be moving that all over so it goes with the fish. after the move let the tank stabilize for a week or two, and gradually up the amount you feed to help colonize more bacteria, then you can gradually add more fish.

[rockfisher]

I think @Fish Folk and @lefty onailed it. I would use the method fish folk recommended and going bigger tends to make things easier. Even if go with what you have planned I think that you will find it a little easier. My 220 is by far the easiest and the 10 gal is the most maintenance. I’m not a big fan of canisters I prefer the sump, UGF, sponge, and hob over canisters in that order. I say use what you are comfortable with. Good luck I hope things go great. I think they will.

[wes.crockett]

Thank you everyone for the advice. Sounds like doing a straight transfer is safe enough to proceed with (given I do it taking the right steps and precautions.)

I'm sure if/when I do it, I'll be posting back in the forum with photos.

Cheers.