Any reptile owners who can give me some insight?

[Lexi B]

I recently set up an enclosure for a baby plains hognose - it's my first reptile ever, and I'm hoping to find one at an upcoming repti expo. I followed a bunch of advise from various guides and primarily from YouTubers I trusted like snake discovery and wickens wicked reptiles. Both recommended, at least for baby hogs, that a heat mat was ideal for maintain comfortable temperature and a basking spot.

 

However, I've got a bunch of people online now telling me directly that the heat mat is wrong and will cook my snake because it won't understand to move away from the warm substrate. I have included both repticarpet and a thermostat to maintain the temperature for me at a safe level and prevent the snake from burning itself on the glass. 

 

I feel like every other person I look to tells me the opposite and it's really confusing! I have kept aquariums before, and I know that sometimes there are some topics that hobbyists just outright disagree on- is this a situation where I should trust the guides, or should I re-asses my heating situation? Thanks!

 

 

[Guppysnail]

I’ve owned several snakes reptiles and amphibians.  With the heat mat under the substrate a a temp controller that shuts the heat off at appropriate levels you are fine. The burns come from fake heat rocks that overheat and reptiles crawl on them. I have NEVER had a critter get burned from an appropriate reptile mat with separate temp controller. The heat mats are not much different than aquarium heaters and stick on occasionally.  That’s why a separate control is best. 
 

The reality. Many of these critters live in deserts where sun cooks objects to 150+ degrees. As long as they are healthy they will move. If they go into full brumation on a malfunctioning heat mat without an external control you could have problems. 
 

Congrates on your new snake 🤗

[Biotope Biologist]

Yes I agree with @Guppysnail. Buying a decent heat mat with a separate temp controller is ideal. I always provide my herps with 3-4 temperature controlled zones in their enclosure as reptiles rely on external Sources for thermo regulation.

 

Although I have to give a bad review to the Zoomed digital rheostat. I decided to splurge and it had 3 independently controlled outlets. Well the one for the basking sun uv bulb burnt out and it cooked my enclosure very quickly. Literally. I was lucky enough to have been taking my beardie out for a beach day when it happened.

 

A infrared thermometer will quickly become your best friend to spot check temps!

[Odd Duck]

As a vet that sees reptiles, I’m not fond of heat mats unless they are only under a portion of the substrate, the substrate is thick enough to minimize risk of the reptile coming into direct contact with the glass on the bottom, and there is a separate sensor/controller as a fail safe.  I usually recommend that people use heat mats against the side of the container so there is less risk of the reptile laying directly on the heat. It’s extremely unlikely that a reptile will press itself firmly against the side glass unless it’s wedging itself in a crevice.  Avoid creating any crevices against the heated side glass and they are safe.

Many reptiles are often not triggered to move away from heat when it slowly, gradually increases, especially from underneath.  Burns, plus bites from prey animals, are the 2 things I treat most often even after decades of reports of burns from heat from the substrate level and terrible bite wounds from live prey.

I generally prefer overhead heat emitters and basking lights from above since that is a more natural situation and reptiles seem to be better programmed to respond appropriately for this type set up.  I also strongly recommend temperature zones that skirt the high end and low end of the species’ POTZ or preferred optimal temperature zone.  You do NOT need to reach for the high end of the tolerated zone, just the high end of the POTZ or just a bit above.  If you have nice warm zones and cool zones with an enclosure big enough to have shade and water at each end, you should be good.  Don’t forget to provide humid areas, too.

Lots of info out there about bearded dragons needing low humidity but I see them plenty for shed stuck on toes or toes that have gotten auto-amputated from strictures from stuck shed.  They need the option of more humidity, so a humid hide is good.  Or frequent soaking, yes, I said it, you should soak your beardie!  They get urate plugs often and soaking is one of the best ways to prevent them, as well as preventing stuck shed strictures on toes.

Uromastyx do NOT need a basking temp of 140’F, really, truly, they do not!  Every uromastyx owner that is running a super hot basking spot (anything over about 120’F) tells me their lizard won’t bask.  Well, they are hanging out in the shade because they don’t want to get cooked!  Take the basking down to 110’F and see how much more you see your lizard.  You won’t have to worry about them getting enough UV if they are comfortable enough to bask.

Climbing off the soapbox now.  Sorry, got a little side tracked into pet peeves.  Be extremely careful with substrate heating making certain that the water dish won’t overflow if the animal climbs in it completely.  If the substrate is wet, the heat will strike through much faster and be more likely to cause a burn.  Always provide a warm end and cool end (or zones) so your pet has options. If your pet is staying always on one end or the other, either it is sick or your zones aren’t right and need adjusting.  Yes, I recommend UVA and UVB for snakes. Not enough study has been done to know if some make their own Vitamin D or only get it from prey, but the UV appears to act as an appetite stimulant and may have benefits we don’t fully understand yet.  Snakes likely don’t need to be flooded with UV but they do seem to do a bit better with some.  How much?  I don’t know because no one really knows yet.  Most agree they seem to be healthier with at least a little.

Edited September 18, 2022 by Odd Duck
Typo

[Guppysnail]

On 9/16/2022 at 2:08 PM, Odd Duck said:

Or frequent soaking, yes, I said it, you should soak your beardie!  

My beardie had his own swimming pool filled so he could stand with his head out. He would duck under and swim like a crocodile. He LOVED it. 

[CrashBandit05]

Check out Biodude for awesome bioactive kits! I had a Kenyan sand boa in a 10 gallon with one of their kits. It was cool seeing the burrowing tunnels and whatnot. Even grew a few succulents in the tank. I kept the heating pad on a vertical side of glass next to a piece of bark that was under the basking light(hot side). Never had an issue with burns or anything!