Mmiller2001

Anyone know what moss they are using in the middle foreground? @gjcarew @Patrick_G

Hygrophila Polysperma, hands down. I'm not sure why it's not more popular with non CO2 tanks. It would probably grow in a swimming pool.

Just buy dry salt. They are dirt cheap.

That's what I do. Purigen works way better than carbon and can be recharged many times.

I would save your money and put it towards improving flow and water turnover.

Did some digging, maybe Hygrophila angustifolia? Ah Willow hygro is angustifolia.

Here's a shot of our recent fish in substrate swap.

Perfect, ty.

Funny that you posted this. I saw a video too, so today I bought a cigarette off a coworker and ripped the filter off and have it. She looked at me funny and I chuckled 😁. Did they use regular super glue or the gel to cause the reaction? I bought both but only have the one butt. I also bought reef epoxy that dries brown. I figure the screw method is the nuclear option!

I actually did a bunch of reading today and thought about you when I came across some discussions about DYI CO2. It confirmed its problems that I mentioned; basically they can't maintain the stability we need to rule out certain algae triggers. But, if I remember correctly, lowering light a bit more can help a good bit. Something to think about. And absolutely, if it's fun, do it. I'm committing a sin right now. I'm running my light for a 12 hour duration. Why, because it's cool and it's fun to try. It will probably fail, but when I offer light duration help, at least I actually tried it and have the experience. Right? 😆 Also, some of those new setups you mention are not to bad. The equipment is coming up in quality.

So, I completely missed his dosing information when I posted Greggz tank. "Here's the latest. Currently targeting NO3 : PO4 : K at 30 : 10 : 40 in the water column. Everything seems to be on autopilot at those levels."

Okay, I couldn't find ATP iron information. But can confirm NilocG OG has both EDTA and DPTA iron. I'd go with that. It's a bit high on Nitrates but not too bad. One last option is to mix your own fertilizer, but requires measuring powder. It's also way cheaper to do it this way, but more effort.

What PH does your tank run at?

Personally, I would try the ATP over NilocG, But NilocG has a DPTA version. Let me do a bit of research and I will post back.

Can you get NilocG? Or APT?

Wait a couple of weeks and see how it goes. Constantly changing parameters (including light) causes instabilities that algae can take advantage of. If it persists, and if you are staying on top of maintenance, then try lowering to 50%.

Thank you. Flourish is basically an ultra light micro mix and I still don't know what its application is for. Basically, you are dosing additional water to the tank. You want a good all in one fertilizer, preferably with lower Nitrates and iron DPTA chelated or a combination of EDTA and DPTA. I would lower your light intensity to around 50% and reduce duration to around 8 hours. Unless you have a specific fish requiring 82 degrees, I would lower to 76-78 degrees. There's mulm in the tanks and this needs to be removed and increase water changes. Moss like cooler water FYI. Additional information: Angel fish grow to 5 inches long and over 6 inches in height. Once they start getting bigger, they will most likely kill the Ember's.

Are you dosing fertilizer?

Chihiros RGB2 120

It really comes down to DLI (daily light interval). Not a largely used term in planted tanks, but it's still relevant. You can have too short of a photo period regardless of intensity and too low of intensity even for a longer period. It really comes down to plant type, high energy or low energy tanks and husbandry. My suggestion is a total of 8 hours at a medium to medium low intensity. Starting there will probably produce the best results. If you have high demand plants, a bit more will be needed.

http://www.selectaquatics.com/Levamisole.htm

I'd also follow that up with Levamisole.

If you suspect wasting disease, I would use Panacur C Canine Dewormer Dogs 1 (3 Packets) Gram Each Packet Treats 10 lbs https://a.co/d/bQ45qiL

It would be standard at best. Petco will do it for free. If you want a real and detailed brake down, there are mail services I would use before paying my local fish store. I can tell you your CO2 levels are between 2 and 4ppm if you are not injecting it.

Not yet, but one fell off last night and just the 2 held it down. I'm definitely waiting a month before testing it. The remaining bolbitus is going to float until then.