Mmiller2001

I'm going to have a good look at those for my next build.

You know, it's really getting frustrating I have to order everything online. Apparently, no one offers Fuji stone in Albuquerque.

80 is high, but it's not going to kill anything. Shoot for around 20 to 30ppm if EI dosing.

Agree with everything gjcarew posted. However, coming from the salt word, lights matter. And so I can't recommend a fluval 3.0.. If you really want colors to pop, the Chihiros is the bottom end or entry point of top lighting options. They also have a Vivid model that's beautiful. If that doesn't matter to you, a fluval will work. But either way, around 70 par at the substrate will grow most carpets and keep them short. I would research Estimative Index dosing, this method is beyond easy and eliminates any need to test. As such, dry salts are your best bet with EI dosing. All this information can be found at the link he provided. GLA regulators are my choices. CO2art is a decent entry level regulator and have nice kits. I have no experience with Coop regulators, but if it functions, and is consistent, probably okay.

I use the same heaters in the 200w version. These are definitely fickle. I've found they work better the more direct flow they are in and if placed at an angle. If I use them in direct high flow, they work perfectly and at any angle.

For your tank, I would stay around 15 ppm NO3. I was just giving you an example of how fertilizer, at very high loads, doesn't cause algae. I should have been clearer. If you add more plants, you will be in a good spot. Keep at it.

That cube/rectangle tank is freaking awesome!

I'd like to share a site to you created by Dennis Wong. He's one of the best, and recommend you read his learn section. I've read everything multiple times and always reread the learn section every few months. https://www.2hraquarist.com/

You're a little off on your reading. Lowering pH dose not increase CO2. You must inject CO2 to raise CO2. Fertilizer does not cause algae. This tank is kept at 30ppm NO3, 10ppm of P and 30ppm K. As you can see, it's pristine.

It's not just API, pretty much all hobbyist level test kits. The work around is to get dry salts and use water changes to target dose.

Unless you calibrate your test kits, then you can't reasonable assume the information these tests are giving you are correct.

Let's hope so, they are pretty much all black at this point. The Trident is starting to liven up. Not worried there.

Staghorn is caused by excess ammonia and low CO2. A good cleaning, big water change and improved filtration with a bit of light reduction should get it squared away. Spot dose H202 to kick things off.

A thin layer of coarse Black Diamond blasting sand would work.

I'm hoping this is just transition damage. Like I've mentioned, I'm a complete noob with these types of plants. Thoughts? I'm thinkin all my bolbitus mini are goners. I've never seen plants turn black and melt.

Sure, but only as a waste of iron. Many people have accidentally left auto dosers on and pumped in ridiculous amounts of Fe with no ill effects.

If you are not injecting CO2, then you will only have between 2 and 4 ppm CO2. You can't increase this by any other method other than through injection. CO2 is always the limiting factor in non injected CO2 tanks. So you must compensate by having lower light intensity and lower nutrients. But you must have enough of both nutrients and light to keep the plants healthy. This is the balance everyone talks about. I'm not aware of any relationship between CO2 and Nitrates; except that one would assume more Nitrate uptake when more CO2 is available. Faster growth would require more nutrient uptake.

Inaccurate test kit or calculation error.

I'm also raising my CSM+B to .45ppm Fe as proxy.

Water change day is about to being. I tested to see where I'm at and NO3 is still at 25 ppm with PO4 around 4.5 to 5 ppm. My targets were 15,4,15. I'm going to move to 10,5,25.8. I will also begin front loading. Green dust algae is continuing, but no new green spot algae. I reduced light by 10% and hopefully the drop in nitrates will stop the dust algae.

Are you injecting CO2?

Best I could get.

I took a second and decided not to get one. They are so awesome, but yeah...too risky. Thank you both.

Routine routine and read read, that's most of what I do

Will a Paradise fish kill cherry barbs or Harlequin Rasboras?