ThomasLC

Thank you. Boy do they make that confusing.

I know this is a super stupid question but, when ordering new bulkheads for the tank I am refurbishing. I measure the size of the hole and that is the size I order correct? So I have four holes total in the bottom of the tank. Two for out on each side and two for in on each side. Outs are 1 3/4 ins are 1 1/2. So that is the size I order correct? I ask because the 1 3/4 size doesn't seem that common when U am trying to find them online to order,

Per Father Fish videos the key to nitrate is anaerobic bacteria , this is like the aerobic bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrogen , anaerobic bacteria converts nitrogen to a nitrogen gas allowing it to escape the water. Anaerobic bacteria require an place to live that is O2 deficient. I do this in my tank with a deep sub straight. He recommends at least 3" of sand. This will allow anaerobic bacteria a place to grow. So this might provide a piece of your puzzle.

So I have a Dicus Community tank with a couple gold nugget plecos. So I try and provide food for the Plecos with Algae wafers. Well it seems the Angles, the rainbows and the dicus all enjoy nibbling on the wafers. Not sure if this is 'normal' or not My Dicus are not full adults yet.

Spent a week cleaning off all the old sealant to reseal the tank. I got it resealed yesterday. Checked to to and found a bubble in the bottom corner. Its like a balloon, So another week set back. I wanna cry scream rage quit. But, deep breath. Take it as a lesson learned, deep breath, start scraping....

Badly drawn tank plumbing, Think this might be the way.

I am thinking with the H2Overflows pictured above I can straight pipe down into the socks. One pipe per hole , one pipe per sock. There will be the gate valves for the overflows and returns for fine tuning. In most videos or web reviews I am seeing they pipe this out the back and down into the sump the only difference is I am going through the tanks bottom. and a straight pipe up going to the return pipes. Super simple. Well

My sump comes with two of these I will need to fit to my own piping.

The Sump I ordered has a operating volume of 55 gallons and a max volume of 75 gallons giving me a over flow volume of 20 gallons to spare. Considering this is a 150 gallon 72X18 tank. What is the distance from the top I would need?

This a good guide? https://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

The tank has a total of 4 holes in the bottom. 2 for out, 2 for return. So I think I will devise a strainer on top with straight pipe going down. I have a straight pipe with a nozzle for the returns. I will use valves to adjust flows and allow shut off for maintenance. I think this will work?? Thoughts? The sump will have two socks so mabey have one drain into each sock?

So the bottom of the tank I am refurbishing is drilled so the overflow and return come up through the bottom allowing for a more flush fit to the wall. It had an Aquoen Overflow kit with the large back piece. What can I do to be able to put this back together with out the large black piece. What is the name of the large black piece? I'm such a newb! There is a article by CO-OP that outlines using filter media, polyester yarn and plants to build your own back ground , which is what I wnat to do. I will paint the piping to blend into the planting. Then plant tall growing plants round them. Which I would like better then large black towers. So, question is. How can I get that done? Hopefully with out a ton of noise. OH, it is going to flow into a seamless Sump system underneath.

Its just me and I'm new on refurbishing fish tanks. Starting the skill with a 150 seems to proven to be a double edge sword. However it is just me working on it and I do not have two others to help tear it down and rebuild so I will be doing the good 1/2 inch bead to reseal it. How long do I let the sealant set before I can 1.) add water and test 2.) place it on its stand (move it)?

So I was looking for help on resealing the tank. I have it all cleaned up and ready to apply the silicone but I am nervous about getting it right. So I called a local Aquarium Maintenance guy and he said you can't do that. He stated it had to be completely tore apart and rebuilt as the sealant between the pieces of glass has to be replaced as well. Is he just trying to sell me a new tank? I don't want 150 gallons of water all over my floor but at the same time I don't have 1400 for a new tank either. There are a ton of videos online of people resealing tank with out completely breaking them down. Are the videos just for show?

OK not only am I resealing the the entire tank I am also replacing the top brace as the old one was brittle.

I purchased a used 160 Gallon setup off of offer up. It came with stand , hood , lights, sump and tank. I have refurbished to the stand as it has extensive saltwater damage to address, rusty hinges and paint issues. Plus the paint did not match out decor. This will now be a fresh water tank for Dicus fish and Angles and Rainbows. I will not use the hood or lights. I bought new lights from Co-Op to replace the massive Marineland one that was used. Bought a seamless sump to replace the cheap open air one that was in there. Now I am refurbishing the tank itself. Question is as the bottom and around the overflows the sealant looks good but the sides is all but gone. Can I just reseal the edges or do I have to do everything?