xXInkedPhoenixX

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/search-results-page?q=med+trio

I'm glad my joke didn't slip past you @Fish Folk @Ken Burke

@nabokovfan87Yes, I agree, I keep their water moving- not only better for them health wise but they seem to appreciate higher flow. My 10 Gallon Accidental Oto tank that had all my babies (60 ish) and for a short time my Zebra/Tiger otos- it without a heater would get up to 79- but it has a sponge filter and an Aqueon Quietflow 10 and you can see the amazon sword being kicked about by the current- they did very well in there. Since I moved all of them in with their parents in the Parent Tank- 2 sponge filters already there- but I put a Quietflow there too- that tank since it's a 20 tall stays cooler though because it's in a colder room- 77 is usually as hot as it gets. They are defintely one of the coolest fish in the aquarium hobby imo

@nabokovfan87 My Otos do ok up to 79 but the Hillstream- yeah he's not a fan of pushing 80s- noticeable difference in behavior. Though I did see a video Cory did once (it was long form talk so not subject focused) where he was making an argument that biotopes for species like that aren't "necessary" and said he'd kept Hillstreams in everything from Goldfish tanks to warmer tropical tanks. Personally I'm good with nothing in the 80s for my fish. A good argument can be made for bacteria growing a lot better in warmer water.

How liquid is liquid rock? 🙂 I have pretty hard water- I think in a set up like yours gluing Java Narrowleaf to that rock will have a very nice look to it. Kelp forest-esque (I stole this pic:) Narrow leaf gets pretty tall and plenty of plantlets to reglue in future

(ACO gets stuff within a few days to sacto fyi)

https://www.chewy.com/fritz-aquatics-mardel-maracyn-water/dp/164571?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=15783018857&utm_content=Fritz Aquatics&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoNu6kbyS-AIV_B-tBh2gpAYOEAQYAyABEgLwvfD_BwE nope, that's not the same, nor is maracyn2 (different from 1) Either order it from ACO or the above, see it's sold at Walmart too.

Welcome to the forum @BradleyH20! It's a great place to be!

Yeah sadly anewbie you're probably right there.....aquarium science also suggests 20 minute salt baths can help- but not sure that's appropriate for loaches.

I think I agree with the dude on aquarium science, as they are similar (ich and epystylis) Treat the water with Ich X (don't use heat) and Kanaplex in food like @Colu suggests.

Stop the heat, I think this is Epistylis- this photo matches what I see- it will only make the illness spread faster. Found the picture here: https://aquariumscience.org/index.php/10-2-4-epistylis/

True velvet disease is supposed to be gold in color, are the spots more gold in person?

Ouch, I realllly don't think that's Ich my friend, usually a lot more prominent on fins and you're right- bigger. Are the spots raise at all?

So, I tinker with cars. My Dad always told me- when you're trouble shooting- always start with the simplest things -OR- the last thing you touched (can be one in the same). Then work your way up to the more complex stuff. I tend to use this philosophy in life. I would say just start with more frequent water changes and gravel vac as you did before (if that was once a month stick with that until and unless you see changes to the better or worse then adjustment might need to be made). Sometimes over reacting/cleaning sends things the other direction. If that seems to work you may have solved your problem. If not- maybe you do water changes and more frequent gravel vac BUT just do a section of the tank at a time. See where I'm going? It's a process of elimination. @Jacob Hillalso has a point- if you're on municipal water this is the time of year they make chemical changes that can effect our tanks. Make sure you treat the water before you put it in the tank (just my M.O.). You can check with your water provider to see if anything has changed with water since you've had your deaths/changes. I tend to think that isn't really your issue- only because most of the time you will see the effects shortly after a water change and you didn't mention that. I would aim for 20-40 nitrates MAX.

That is so great! Maybe our resident fish baby maker (and killi keeper) can help with what to expect when you are expecting? @Fish Folk?

I really hope that helps you.

Think of Nitrate as the final product of "junk" (ammonia and nitrite), yes your plants need it but you are not what I would consider heavily planted so your "junk collectors" aren't keeping up- so, more frequent water changes may be in order.

Welcome to the forum @Hally M. and @sankaz!!

Thank you @Tori_W_22 I know that's a lot of work to do but it helps a lot There are a couple of things that could be problematic- I'm of the mind and experience that Nitrates over 40 can contribute to Nitrate poisoning. Prolonged exposure to high Nitrates (especially sensitive fish like Otos) can cause loss of appetite, weakness and death. It can also cause body curl head to tail (advanced stages- could this be the white cloud issue? I know you said 40 ppm but things have a way of creeping up). Maybe @WhitecloudDynasty can give you some insight on what's going on with them if it's not something like this. I still very much suspect old tank syndrome, the higher nitrates kind of point to that.....Then there is the issue of gravel vacuuming which can contribute to that. I think infrequent gravel vacuuming (1x month can be considered infrequent) can sometimes let loose unsavory toxic things that over time builds up and though fish start to build up a tolerance once it gets to a certain level the weaker fish start to die off first. (otos) I actually DON'T gravel vac in 4 out of 5 of my tanks (those tanks have Eco Complete) and only vacuum the actual gravel in my Oto tank because I've ALWAYS done it-and it's done once a week. I suggest looking up "old tank syndrome" on youtube or online to a site you trust and see if that might apply. This is one hobbyists opinions to your situation- there may be further opinions (I hope) incoming!

@Cinnebuns If you wanted to: Most of the time the plastic plants are glued on or easily cut off- then you could glue some Java Windelov (which is whimiscal enough to match that cute little house) and/or anubias nana- would make a cute "tree" for the house. @nabokovfan87 download an app like Etsy, save a search for "vintage aquarium castle" and look every now and again. I've found many things I'd remember from childhood lurking on sites like that. If it was something mass produced- it will definitely pop up sooner or later.

Hi @Tori_W_22, welcome to the forum- although if you quit fishkeeping then we may not have you long- lets try and fix that. I am very sorry- frustrating! We are very helpful people here so if you don't mind, make another post giving details of each tank 1 by one- a picture, how long it's been running, what you're using for filtration, your water change schedule and full water test results/temperature. A lot of us are kind of subject matter experts on different things so it is helpful to know all of the above. I can tell you a couple of things just by superficial info from your post. Betta fish: near impossible to keep even for the best of fish keepers. Dropsy is not uncommon- and not curable really- I mean you can get them to recover but by the time the symptoms of dropsy are showing organ failure has already started. Tumors also not uncommon. Just do a search on this forum for "sick" or "dying" betta fish and you will see misery is definitely company when it comes to Betta. They are BEAUTIFUL AND WONDERFUL fish- but I will no longer keep them- they are heart breaking. Plants- I see some real and some fake? I have nothing against fake plants at all- but it appears the betta tanks are fake? Plants could make a world of difference there. Also- those connected tanks- if they have the same filtration sadly the bettas often share the same diseases. Otos- they're hard. I have 70 (mine spawned a few times). I've moved my young tank bred ones from one tank to another of my own and they did not always do well- telling me they're not just hard to keep from wild caught- but also even when they're tank raised. I suspect you might have something called Old Tank Syndrome but without further information on each tank and their running time/tests etc we're just guessing.

I agree with @Guppysnail- my first thought is CPD tank- quite a few could go in a 10 gallon and they are so pretty. Could mix in some Chili Rasboras. Nano fish tank!!!

Anubias (nana species) and Java (my favorite is Windelov) since both don't overtake a tank- and are glued to rocks or decor they can be moved around and give a nice look/texture to a tank. My Mum's ADF tank I built for her (5.5 gallon) has Anubias, Java (narrow leaf- I have some windelov I'm adding to it later.), Guppy Grass (takes over fast so I don't necessarily recommend- I keep the tank up for her). I recommend them because an 8 year old (or a 60's year old woman in my case lol) isn't necessarily going to do a lot of plant maintenance and they are not only slow growers but easy care/grow.

Agreed with @Lemon, a proxy is how a friend of mine here in the US gets his J-Pop music fix since they have very tight controls on the music scene out in Japan.

When I did have Bettas, I could get them all to eat Ocean Nutrition Betta Pellets