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RachelElizabeth

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  1. The goldfish are only 2-3 inches (born this past June, I think). The RES shell is about 7 inches in diameter. He will definitely be spending winters indoors, and hoping the goldfish can stay outside NEXT winter when they are a bit bigger and I have a deeper pond dug for them. I don't mind if I need to get a pretty big stock tank for them, but it just needs to fit in through the house door haha.
  2. Hello everyone! Looking for advice on what to do with pond goldfish over the winter. Some backstory: My roommate has a little red-eared slider turtle. We dug a little pond in the yard so he could live outside during the warmer months. I don't know the exact size, but I am guessing around 150 gallons. We obtained some plants for the pond and surprise! They came with baby goldfish. They were so tiny we didn't even notice them right away, but they have been growing steadily over the past 3-4 months. I can't count them individually due to all the plants and such, but I think there are about 10. Now that its October, here in Pennsylvania the weather will be getting colder soon. We are trying to figure out the best way to keep the turtle AND the goldfish over winter. The turtle definitely needs to come inside, and I think the goldfish will need to come indoors, too. I know goldfish are cold water fish, but our pond is not big/deep enough for them to survive temps below freezing. I have 4 tanks set up now, but all are for tropical fish, so the outdoor critters can't live there over the winter either. We are also on somewhat of a budget. My idea now is to get a 300 gallon stock tank for them. The turtle and goldfish have been living together so far, so I would assume they are fine to live together indoors as well? There would definitely need to be a basking area and other turtle-necessities. Do you think this would work? Or should I look into getting something separate for the goldfish? I also need advice on filtration. A pond filter? Cannister filter? How to hook it up? I would prefer not to rehome the goldfish at this point, as I know they would likely end up as feeders for someone. I am willing to dig a bigger pond (luckily I own the house/property), but I know we won't be able to get it done until spring. Thanks for reading my long post and I appreciate any advice!
  3. Co-Op sponge filters do not have carbon, they are just black colored to hide the gunk as it starts to build up.
  4. Right in the midst of treating for camallanus worms, I just saw a cherry barb fry for the first time! I'm not sure if there are others (or if there were others and they didn't make it this far). I was definitely NOT trying to breed them on purpose, so I'm very unprepared. I would love for this little guy to survive, but I have never bred anything other than pond mosquito fish before and I have no idea where to start. I would guess that I need to feed fry food. The fish is approximately 3mm in length. Also, I know there is a big risk of being eaten, either by the parents or the other fish in the tank (75 gallon community with cherry barbs, honey gourami, and rubber pleco). BUT I doubt I'll be able to catch him since he's so small and there are plants all around. If anyone has any ideas to get me started, please let me know! Even if this fry doesn't make it, I want to be prepared if they spawn again in the future! Edit: spelling
  5. Wow, I really like the look of those stands! I bought both of my bigger aquariums used and they came with stands. I think the metal frame should be strong enough to support the aquarium, especially since they have supports in the center. The only negative to these is that I wouldn't have a closed cabinet to hide all my fish foods, chemicals, and other stuff haha.
  6. Any med with the active ingredient erythromycin (an antibiotic) could be substituted for Maracyn. I believe API sells Erythromycin. Might be able to get it through Petsmart.
  7. I did almost the exact same thing you are doing with my 25 gallon. Replaced my old HOB with a new HOB (and brand new media too), but kept the pre-filter sponge and Co-Op sponge filter. If my memory serves me correctly, I also added SeaChem Stability for a few days to boost new beneficial bacteria populations. It did not seem to affect my cycle much at all. That being said, I had less fish than you at the time (5 cherry barbs and a gourami), so if possible I'd play it safe and try to run both HOBs for a couple weeks.
  8. I recently started a topic about treating Camallanus worms with Expel P. I'll put the link to that thread below: https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/15598-expel-p-treatment-for-camallanus-worms/?tab=comments#comment-129805 Over 24 hours have passed since treatment, and for the first time ever I am noticing white stringy poo associated with tapeworms. Now I'm worried that I'm dealing with 2 parasite infections at once. I know the Expel P does not treat for tapeworms. I feel like I should probably wait until my 3 weeks of Expel P treatment pass before I dose another med. I have API's General Cure on hand, which looks to have the same active ingredients as ParaCleanse. I don't want to overly stress the fish, but I also don't want to lose any to these pesky worms. Should I wait or piggy back the 2 meds? Thanks in advance. You guys on this forum always give the best advice! Edit: spelling
  9. I dropped the python water changer hose as I was refilling the tank and flooded my dining room. 🤦‍♀️
  10. I agree with the above replies, it's likely the lid that is making that rattling sound. I have two AquaClear filters, an AquaClear 70 in a 75 gallon tank, and an Aquaclear 30 in a 25 gallon tank. I don't keep a lid on either of them
  11. For me, keeping fish is almost like a double-edged sword. Watching the fish and maintaining the tanks definitely helps with my day-to-day anxiety, BUT I am always worried about the health of the fish, plants, etc.
  12. Ok, so I did some research and unfortunately I still have no idea what this is. Most growths occur on the fish's body, not the fins. That being said, (and this is just an educated guess!) growths, like tumors, are often not contagious. It still wouldn't be a bad idea to quarantine him if you have the room. You could try to treat with Maracyn, or just give it some time and see if it subsides. Not sure how long its been there at this point.
  13. I've heard that you need super high high light to get them red. But, it sounds like you have already tried lots of different light options. However, when grown in higher light, they need harder water. Maybe dosing iron would also help. Disclaimer, I have never kept these plants. I was asking about floating plants at my LFS, and this is the info the store guy told me. I ended up going with frog bit instead. Good luck!
  14. A little late here, but I wanted to say that I successfully keep a single male/female honey gourami pair. I call them Lady and the Tramp haha. Anyways, I started out with 2 girls and a boy, but one of the females passed within a few days of bringing them home. I never got around to getting a second female, but luckily he's a super chill boy and doesn't seem to bother her at all. I truly believe that all fish (especially gouramis) have their own personalities. For example, I have seen some super sassy opaline gouramis, but I have one blue gourami in particular who has never harassed a single tank mate, even though he's the biggest in the aquarium! I would say if you don't have a good backup option, leave him be alone for now.
  15. Hi, I wanted to chime in and say that my nerite snails have outlived my mystery snails by far! I've had them well over a year. The nerites have also been better algae eaters in my experience.
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