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Fish Folk

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Posts posted by Fish Folk

  1. If you have a mature pair, they’ll likely spawn.

    They are mouth brooders. Female will hold fertilized eggs in her mouth until they hatch (18-24 days). Then, unless she gets spooked and swallows them, she’ll spit them out. As Wikipedia accurately reads…

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    My son bred Auratus. Here’s a video we made on that…

    He also made a demo video on “stripping” eggs from a female Rock Kribensis…
     

     

    • Like 1
  2. At first look, it appears to be a wild-type / form of normal Pterophylum scalare — sometimes called “wild type,” “striped angel,” or _unhelpfully_ “Peruvian Altum.”

    Altum is a distinctly different species. This video shares a lot of footage and distinguishes between them…

     

    • Like 3
  3. Here’s an old thread on this subject from another forum, some 15 yrs ago.

    Keep water clean. Make sure you’re feeding variety. Maybe lightly gravel vac to ensure infection sources from substrate are nullified.

    Note that the “med trio” CoOp recommends can all be dosed together.

    Feed boiled zucchini slices, Vitamin-enhanced wafers, some mixed protein+veggie wafers, etc.

     

     

    • Love 1
  4. I have straightened out your photos…

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    Your aquarium is beautiful! Those red root floaters are absolutely stunning.

    Here is an excellent article from TFH Magazine on dealing with hair algae. I’d read it over thoroughly.

    Basically: (1) Remove manually (2) Adjust Parameters (3) Add Select Algae Eating Species (4) Bunker-down for a Long Battle.

    I’ll note… if you try Florida Flagfish, be sure you buy _FEMALES_ rather than males. Males get really testy…

    (My sexing I.D. from another thread)

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    • Like 2
  5. On 4/3/2022 at 10:24 AM, SupersoNick95 said:

    Thanks so much, I’m new to all of this and am most worried about my breeding pair of apistos getting sick. Should I go ahead and treat with fungus cure? 

    It won’t hurt as long as you carefully follow the instructions. Beware that the green stain will be epic. Change water as directed. If it says not to use certain conditioners with sulphur then use API water treatment. Prime and Fritz stink = sulphur. I can’t remember if that treatment mentioned that or not… maybe it was Ich-X… or something else.

    • Like 1
  6. So, is your 8.5 pH with or without the water softener? Are you using softened water in your aquarium??

    How do you test your pH / KH / GH parameters? Strips? Titration drops? Digital?

    Ammonia does convert from Ammonia to Ammonium somewhere in the 6.4 pH range, if I recall. Maybe it’s more toxic at higher pH ranges. But if your tank is well cycled, this really need not be a problem.

    If I ran into a scenario where my water just didn’t work for my fish, I’d consider choosing other fish to keep before making my water obey my desired parameters. The only exception is breeding Discus.

    • Like 1
  7. On 4/3/2022 at 9:08 AM, SupersoNick95 said:

    Thanks for the tip! So you’re saying the fungus may have just formed because it was injured not speck because it was the fungus itself that killed him? 

    Yeah. It is everywhere in our tanks. But worse if we overfeed and basically “grow it” it unawares. Once a fish is injured in a high-fungus tank, it can break out. And if untreated, fungus can kill the fish.

    • Like 1
  8. On 4/3/2022 at 8:33 AM, JoeQ said:

    Is there any advantages in using one over the other when trying to buffer KH only. Will using limestone buffer GH as well? 

    Good question! I am not an expert here. Others on the forum can probably help out more. I use crushed coral in some tanks, have lots of limestone in one tank, and use shells from the outer banks in a few aquariums as well.

    From what I understand, crushed coral raises KH. I am not sure about it’s affect on GH. We used some, for example, on each side in this tank when breeding Auratus…

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    You can also see some shells, which are a much slower release.

    Some while later, breeding Acaras in this same tank here, the crushed coral has dispersed around the tank substrate…

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    The thing is that if you’re changing a lot of water, you’re not really experiencing the results of increased KH, but more or less just resetting water with soft water again abs again. Even after adding crushed coral, our parameters read…

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    We used some huge pieces of Texas Holey Rock (honeycomb limestone) in one tank…

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    But again, with frequent water changes, I’m not sure there is much of an effect. pH stays buoyantly high… otherwise, it’s not as much of an effect as you’d think.

  9. There’s a list here. I rotated your photo…

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    In my opinion, this fish is just a wild type color morph. Note the red on dorsal. Maybe a wild crossed with a captive strain. I’ll have look up what Axelrod called them. Note that the eyes seem to be brown rather than red.

    • Like 1
  10. Aptly named, these fish! If your Terror has been fed live food it may refuse other offerings. Maybe try live feeder fish? Or worms from a bait shop? If you can add a few thawed out frozen blood worms at the same time as feeding small garden worms, you might turn him / her over to frozen foods.

    I think we all want to see a video of your hand getting attacked though… 😂

  11. Very sorry for your loss. I’ve found that fungus is everywhere. If you do a major water change, gravel vac, slow back feeding, and even treat with meds… you might pull it back. Fungus grows all over excess food or dead fish in half a day easily. If you can improve your flow, and keep the tank cleaner, you can dial it back.

    Last year, I had a Threadfin Acara that got mauled by another. The injury site grew fungus, so I treated with API Fungus Cure (Victoria green). Here’s what that looked like for weeks…

     

  12. @dangerflower I think isolation in a QT tank with sponge or box filtration is best. You’ll need to take care to ensure it is properly cycled.

    This might be fungus… but you’d normally see “fuzzy” growth.

    Perhaps it is a cancerous growth. I have seen than several time before. Fish can go awhile before they succumb to it.

    If you want to let it go without any treatment, you do risk losing fish and possibly contaminating your tank.

    [Deep breath here] Everyone keeps fish differently, and thinks about their stock differently. I have about 17 tanks, and keep 200-500 fish. Between my oldest son and I, we’ve bred, raised and sold dozens of different species. So how I would view this scenario and care for it versus how someone else would is naturally different. My concern with fish illness is often conditioned by the level of risk involved — and what I know about the tank. Sometimes, I’ll spend 15x the value of a single fish on several rounds of medicine. But other times I’ll euthanize and buy more. A few fish I treat as “pets,” but many fish I think of as “stock.” Every aquarist is really unique in this regard. Cory once said, “nurses make great fish keepers.” This is true: they’re focused on preserving life, managing chemistry, etc. There are nurses on this forum who reflect that. But I am personally wired differently. I love seeing and helping fish multiply. Everything I enjoy in the hobby is about “making more of this!” As a result, I have many, many occasions where I cull fish, euthanize fish, occasionally even feed them to larger fish (think… culled guppies to larger cichlids), etc. For me, losing one fish in order to help save the life of more is often essential.

    So bottom line, your decision is going to need to be yours to make. If you want to go all in on this one fish and treat as @Colu has helpfully outlined above, we’re with you here. But if you’d rather euthanize and dedicate your care to healthier fish, for my part, I understand, and will look forward to learning with your journey as you raise these other ones.

    • Like 1
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