Fish Folk
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Posts posted by Fish Folk
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It sort of looks like a juvy Congo Tetra, but it might be a long-finned version of something South American.
Red eye Tetra?
Head and tail light tetra? -
On 3/30/2022 at 2:02 PM, B1gJ4k3 said:
And how could we forget The Naked Gun???
Man… Ricardo Montalban… great actors are hard to find anymore. That he could play this role, Shakespeare, and Khan (Star Trek II)… one of my favs.
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Since I don’t run CO2, I cannot say if it’s the composition of the rubber + diffuser output. But you could try pulling it out, and just rubbing it down by hand. Sometimes that works. If not, I sometimes use a piece of clear tubing down into a tank, with the black CoOp tubing run outside. I did this for a Betta / Killi jug shelf recently just because I felt like the clear airline was less unsightly in this one instance. However, I also just used up an entire 300-ft roll of CoOp tubing on other applications, and totally love it.
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Hi @Bev C !! In both of my 55 gallon aquariums, I have more than one Bristlenose Pleco. I also have multiples in my 40-gallon, and in my 33-gallon long. As long as you’ve got loads of hiding places and foraging space for them, they’ll enjoy life. It is helpful to get a pair — male + female. Males can tend to be a bit territorial. But I’ve not personally seen them fight to the death.
If you really love Corydoras, you might enjoy some of the medium-large species. They enjoy flow, and can be coaxed up through the water column if your conditions are just right. Emerald Corys can get 2-3x larger than Bronze Corys (Aeneus). They’re a funny fish to watch!
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Honestly, if I were doing this, I'd plan to go about it all in two stages: (1) assisted / nurtured breeding with mops, hatching / grow-out tank, etc (2) once enough fry are old enough to add into a larger colony, I'd allow a massive colony to "do their thing" naturally in a larger tank, loaded with java moss on bottom, and floating plants on top. If you can manage to avoid duckweed, water lettuce or frog bit would be nice. But if you get into duckweed, it tends to take over.
For a detailed look at how I bred and raised up a huge colony of African Fundulopanchax Scheeli (Emerald Killifish), you can go down a NERM-hole at this link.
Here's a photo I took tonight of one of those fry from my colony...
What I'd do now is float a DIY flow-through fry container with java moss and an air stone. I made a post on that recently here on the forum. I'd pull eggs off the mop, and drop in there until they hatch. That maintains the same water chemistry as the tank. I personally DO use a single neocaridina to care for fungus and infertile eggs. I call it my "nurse droid."
The Killi eggs look like tiny little clear glass balls. LRB Aquatics has a fun video on how to make a spawning mop. You can watch it here.
Let me know if I can encourage you in any way! I'd love to see you enjoy a tank full of Clown Kills. As for cleanliness . . . I'm a fan of algae for fry. But I understand that's not everyone's approach. Dean Tweeddale keeps a fanatically spotless fishroom, and really breeds a load of fish. I'm just more earthy . . .
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Everywhere I turn in my tiny fishroom, I encounter beauty from far away, selectively bred with a passion for brilliant color.
Young discus…
African Killis…
Thai Bettas…
Dwarf cichlid Amazonian gemstones…
But today, I am struck by native North American beauty. I’ve kept Dace and Darters together in a cold winter tank. Just now, they are beginning to color up with brilliant bursts of wild spring desire.
Enjoy…
Southern Redbelly Dace:
Rainbow Darter:
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On 3/29/2022 at 12:09 PM, Widgets said:
Where did you rehome the Bass?
Straight across the room, over the Discus tank.
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I am so impressed with Forum members who carefully plan and construct new, logical fishroom designs. I hate to admit it, but my pathway into this hobby has come through many disorganized and head-scratching byways. My room is often a mess!
Here, for example, are select photos of the insane mess that has been the underside of many racks in my fishroom…
After tearing items out, a steady pile began to emerge…
Recently I’ve been trying to organize things into a more logical setup.
Power supplies are zip tied to stands, as are metal CoOp airline valves. I used all of a 300-ft roll of black CoOp airline, running lines through ceiling, so all tanks can run on a single large air pump.
I made one major mistake, and bought this air pump…
It barely runs air on half my tanks. Cheap. Bad call. I’m getting another one in several weeks.
I’m trying to keep timers, plugs, light, airlines, all up and off the floor — easily accessible…
I’ve been adapting what I’ve got rather than tossing out and rebuilding everything. Instead of laying LEDs on top of tanks, I’ve been mounting more…
This reorganization all finally came together with a build I had long imagined. A Betta / Killi shelf. I sketched out plans…
And then executed it…
I’ll admit that the basement is far from cleaned up after all of this, but it’s on its way. And a little bit of reorganization goes a long way to feeling good in the fishroom!
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Here was a tank we used Black Diamond blasting sand in. This is the very day we set it up.
If you pour your sand substrate into a large pail, add water from your tub, and then swirl around by hand, pour off, refill, swirl, pour off… etc… in the tub, it will get much of the fine particulates out. It will make your tub very dirty though… 😬
This may take a long while to clean out the dust / fine particulates.
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On 3/28/2022 at 4:53 PM, Karen B. said:
You understand correctly - and yes my gourami are already in the 20 gallons. But they chase each other so much in the 20 gallons (which is the reason why I am upgrading to a 30) that I would be afraid they hurt or stress each other in a 5 gallons.
I am keeping everything beside the branch that I will replace, will add more plants to the existing one and will be adding some substrate to my old one as I get 12 more inches to fill in space. The substrate I will add is Estes black river sand. On the bag, it is mentioned that it’s important to wait 48 hours before adding any fish. I emailed the company to know why :
« even after rinsing, the sand contains some very fine particles that need to settle or be removed by your filter system so they don't negatively affect your fish. And when you remove and replace the substrate, you effectively wipe out much of the colonies of Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas bacteria that convert Ammonia from fish waste to Nitrate. If you were to place the fish back in the tank right away, some if not all of them may be distressed and even die. Waiting 48 hours will help to ensure your fish are not stressed. »
If you are reusing your current substrate, and just adding to it, I _think_ your bio colonies will remain in tact. Now, if you are completely replacing, then yes, new substrate may not have a well-established bio build up yet. You certainly can add FritzZyme 7 to try to recharge bio with liquid starter. I do that… although I am always skeptical about how much it really works.
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On 3/28/2022 at 4:26 PM, Karen B. said:
Thank you so much!
Sorry I am french and sometimes don’t understand very well but moving as much tank water as possible in the new tank or in a bucket to mix/wash old/new substrate?
Will my fish be ok 48 hours in a small tub/bin? What about the two gourami in the smaller (I will use breeding container) container floating?
I have fritz Zyme 7. Should I use it in the new 30 gallons tank when I add my back my fish just to make sure if I lost part of my cycle, things will be ok?
What I understood was that you had a 20 gallon aquarium that you were moving all stock, substrate, and plants over to a 30 gallon aquarium. Was that correct?
Are the Gourami in the 20 gallon aquarium presently? Or are they somewhere else? If they are already in the 20 gallon tank, I am not sure that I understand why they need to be in a separated floating net / basket.
Perhaps I am misunderstanding your project.
What I do when moving a tank, tearing down, and resetting is move fish out . . . move plants out . . . move hardscape out . . . move filters and heaters out . . . drain water . . . and then move substrate into buckets. The empty tank can be moved, or a new tank then set u in reverse order: (1) Substrate (2) Water (3) Heater and Filters (4) Hardscape (5) Plants (6) Fish. The Bio in the original substrate will be sufficient to maintain your cycle. If you're concerned, just be sure to use a sponge filter in the first place, and then the bio will be fine. As long as the substrate stays fairly wet, and the sponge filter does also, the bio colonies will be stable. If you have multiple pails, you can drain tank water out and then add it back in. Sometimes the cycled water is helpful for the fish and plants to maintain continuity.
Now, if you're _changing_ things by adding _new substrate_ along with your old substrate, then my explanation above is for readying the new substrate to be less cloudy, and for keeping the tank from getting overly stirred up.
I apologize if this is more confusing than helpful. Let me know what makes sense and what doesn't. I'm happy to help clarify things.
As long as your fish aren't changing temperature too much, they should be fine in smaller spaces for a limited time. Again, I suggest using sponge filters already cycled and tank water. So long as the heaters are properly working, you're fine to do that. Irene has a helpful video on building a temporary tank / quarantine tank from storage bin. I think this is it...
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(1) Drain cycled tank water from community tank into temporary QT bucket / tank (5 gal)
(2) Move sponge filter and heater over. To protect heater, unplug it, allow cool for 5-10 min, move in, then finally plug heater back in. They can crack if moved too quickly.
(3) Once cycled sponge filter is running, your bucket-tank is filtered / cycled fine. No need for anxious water changes. Move fish in gently. If you are worried about ammonia buildup, just change no more than 2-gallons per day. If you feed at all, do so very sparingly.
(4) If you’re mixing old + new substrate, I like to use a small kid’s plastic sandbox / beach hand-shovel. Move over as much cycled water from original tank as possible. If your new substrate is inert, you can get rid of a lot of dust in the water by mixing it around in a pail in the tub, pouring out cloudy water, and repeating until it pours off clear. I’ve done this many times with fine-granule Black Diamond Blasting Sand. You can also put in a big HOB filter jammed with aquarium floss to strain out a lot of remaining cloudy dust. One trick I use if pouring water in on new substrate to keep it from getting hyper cloudy is lay out a sheet of bubble wrap on top of the substrate, and then pouring water onto that. It floats, and is easy to remove. The substrate underneath is not badly stirred up this way.
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If you can rig a way to merge your mini fishroom with home heating, that would be excellent. If you have gas heat, perhaps a wall-mounted unit could be added, if that wouldn’t be against fire code or risk carbon monoxide poisoning.
There may be a cost-effective space heater option too. If your room is well-insulated, that’s perfect.
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Well, I’m not a USMNT fanatic, but it is encouraging to see them put Panama down given their critical loss to them last WC. Christian Pulisic grew up just an hour away from us. Quasi local chap. Of course, once they play in Europe they play better footy…
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I count at least 77 fry just about two weeks in…
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Bellies full of brine shrimp calzone…
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On 3/27/2022 at 5:13 PM, Connor said:
Im considering setting up a 20-30 gal tank with an apisto pair, some tetras or rasboras, some otos, and amano shrimp. My question is: would I also be able to add a betta to this tank without it causing problems with the apistos or will they be too territorial?
My guess is there’d be problems, but it is something you could _try_ as long as you’ve got a rescue plan. A Betta Imbellis might be a bit less aggressive that a betta Splendens. My Betta Imbellis below…
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On 3/27/2022 at 4:02 PM, Flumpweesel said:
One of my neighbours was taken to America in the 60's by FIFA (or whoever ran the league then) to promote soccer (as you call it). They were working from the empire state building apparently. This was after he'd retired from playing here as part of legendary team (sadly our local team has struggled ever since).
Unfortunately I don't follow the sport (which is nearly impossible to avoid here) but it's great to hear his efforts weren't in vain.
May I ask: what is your local team?
In U. S. we live nearest D. C. United (MLS). Nowhere near the level of play in UK, but still gaining momentum. Many European players consider U.S. as an option for “retirement” (i.e. at age 36, etc.)
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On 3/27/2022 at 10:52 AM, DaveO said:
My daughter sees this guy in her yard fairly often.
My son says, “That’s an adult red-shouldered hawk.”
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Here’s the birding son at it today, photographing a Killdeer…
And here’s his shot of the bird…
He also got excited about a Catbird sighting…
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A handful of fish can become plant eaters if they find them to be a source of desired nutrients.
If you keep a bare quarantine tank, you could move them in, and perhaps train them to take Bug Bites Spirulina flakes and Omega One Kelp flakes along with wafers, etc.
Otherwise, maybe build a floating containment box from plastic canvas sheets, put them in there, abs try feeding _your_ target diet for them. Maybe even blanched green beans, zucchini, etc.
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^agreed^
Also, temperature can be important. My cold water tanks grow plants like mad…
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(Bad photo … taken through my phone + binoculars)
Cormorant. Just arriving in our neck of the woods as spring kicks off.
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Ah… looks like CONMEBOL Wotld Cup qualifying matches are only on fuboTV in US.
Neocaridina "Skittles" tank question
in Fish Breeding
Posted
I cannot answer with authoritative experience. I’ve tried Red Cherry, Blue Dream, Green, Yellow, and Black. In the end I was only long-term-successful with Reds.
Here is a well-known Neocaridina chart: