Tlindsey
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Posts posted by Tlindsey
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I purchased this product and the moss was brown with a little green in a couple of areas. I asked the manager to let me buy it discount she gave me 50% off. I have it in a bowl of aquarium water from a water change second week of replacing water.
Well anyway noticed the moss may be coming back. I have a led aquarium light that is the source of light.
What do you think? Will it come back or am I wasting time?
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On 6/19/2024 at 10:17 PM, SwimmingBlueberry said:
So I used to have like 4 nano tanks about a year ago and of course being a fish keeper for 2 years you accumulate some fish meds. Well a year ago I got out of the hobby and traded it for the reptile hobby. Well now I’m doing both. I have a container full of opened medications and I’m wondering if they are ok cause most of them expired last year.
here’s the meds I have
ich x (big full bottle only used 1-3 times) expired 4/23
Methylene blue expired 11/23
X2 kanaplex expired 7/23
metroplex 7/23
melafix and pimafix expired unknown
full packet of maracyn expired 9/23
i really hate to buy more meds..
Not to sure but the methylene blue may be good for atleast a couple more years.
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On 6/19/2024 at 10:30 PM, TanTann the fish man said:
These white spots anyone think it's ick or something else? Looks like there's one more with it. I did just introduce a polar blue parrot who's not very friendly. Working on getting him out.
It doesn't look like I ich possibly bacterial.
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On 6/19/2024 at 9:23 AM, TOtrees said:
So often we hear/read what didn't work, or what crashed or died after a power failure. I'm here to tell you that investing in some gear up front, and choosing air-driven filtration like sponge filters, can/will yield success and peace of mind down the road.
I run around 15 tanks in my basement. I used to have an upstairs display tank, but when it sprung a leak I shut it down, and I'm happier with everything in 1 room.
With everything in 1 place, central air is the obvious choice, and I have it. Most tanks have air-powered sponge filters, a couple have power-head driven sponges, and 1 has a pair of HOBs (but also a sponge).
I have what I like to call my 2-stage power outage backup plan. Stage 1 is simply a 12v LiFeP04 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery. These go from 100% to 0% without loss of capacity or performance, for thousands of cycles. This single battery, run through a small inverter, will power my 54W air pump at least overnight, and probably for most of a day if needed.
Last night we had an outage from 3pm-10pm. Air pump was switched over to battery within 30 mins, Since we're in a heat wave, but the basement stays cooler, heating and cooling were non-issues -- the only difference between power on and power out (for the fish) was the fish room being dark. Sponges were bubbling, every tank had some filtration and circulation. No extra cords, no muss, no fuss. For the 3 tanks that primarily rely on electric filtration (the power head sponges and hobs), I dropped an airstone into each, with air volume set to deliver a decent bubble column.
What's stage 2 of my plan? When power goes out, you never really know when it will come back. Will it be a few mins? Hour? A few hours? Most of a day? Multiple days? If you still have cellular data, you can check with your utility and see what's projected, but we all know that a) that isn't reliable, and b) it can change frequently and drastically. I ended up not needing to switch to my stage 2 plan. But knowing it's there if I had needed it (if the battery runs out) took a lot of pressure off.
Stage 2 is a 3500W inverter generator. Nothing fancy, my main goal when shopping for it was a) quiet, and b) to be able to run blower for gas furnace, freezer and fridge, and a few extras like lights, modem, etc. And the fish room (mainly just the air, since the generator would heat the house, so temp won't drop too low, eg if it's a winter failure). And recharge the battery. It's not wired into the house, so setting it up does require quite a few cords. Future me has a plan for that.
That's all, just sharing my success. 🙂
You definitely are prepared also your other plans sound great not only for the fish but you and your family. @TOtrees
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On 6/18/2024 at 9:35 PM, BlueLineAquaticsSC said:
My Fx4 on my 90g crapped out and I need a new filter. I liked how I could hide the intake and outtake hoses behind my background and had nothing showing and I’ve always wanted to try a sump, but my tank is not drilled and Im not certain a sump can be set up without a drilled tanks. Any new filter suggestions and does anyone know if their is a good way to run a sump on a non drilled tank?
Most aquarium hobbyist don't like them but a over flow box are available. I have one on my sump. @BlueLineAquaticsSC
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On 6/18/2024 at 2:04 PM, AtomicSunfish said:
I’m thinking of adding both a dwarf gourami and a kribensis cichlid to my 29g community tank. Any reason to think those two would not get along with each other?
Kribensis are very aggressive if you got a pair and they spawned. @AtomicSunfish
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On 6/18/2024 at 1:57 PM, Lennie said:
Thank you
seahorses are also amazing creatures
they accept only live food? Not even frozen? 😞
I weaned my seahorses off live adult brine to frozen mysis shrimp. The Doryichthys Martensii mouth is to small for mysis imo. I do have a can of frozen cyclops but not accepted lol. I may try again when I'm on vacation.
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On 6/18/2024 at 10:12 AM, Lennie said:
Those fish are amazing.
I wanted to try saltwater tank ones but they require a specific diet and tank design from what I know. For this reason they are limiting when it comes to tankmates too
Can you please provide an indepth caring guide whenever you have time? Im very interested.
My experience of caring for the pipefish comes from keeping seahorses many years ago. The key to keeping pipefish isn't that hard for the experienced fishkeeping hobbyist imo. The most important thing is providing a daily supply of live food. I rotate 2 hobby brine shrimp hatcheries daily for 2 small species of pipefish is more than enough. I feed them at 7 am and after 10 am. that's enough for them the rest of the day. Timing for light is 7am to 3 pm. Also keeping parameters in order is also important. During water changes I actually use a floating thermometer to make sure the temperature almost match the aquarium water. Before I got the pipefish the 40 breeder had been up and running for around 8 years. The aquarium had a couple of plants at that time been adding more anubias and Java fern. I recently added cherry shrimp so far so good. @Lennie
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On 6/16/2024 at 10:21 AM, Shrimpee said:
I made a small template on Scape It and I'm not sure how it is. Some of the plants are look-a-likes to the actual plant. Can you guys give me some suggestions and remarks for me? Thank you in advance
That looks good to me but I only have experience with Java Fern, Java Moss, and Anubius.
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On 6/16/2024 at 7:27 AM, TinaPax-Peeks said:
Thanks. For some reason, my brain wants to separate the initial cycling process from the ongoing maintenance process.
Once you do the water changes for awhile it gets easy. The plants will help a bit.
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On 6/16/2024 at 7:13 AM, TinaPax-Peeks said:
My 20g tank is cycling...no fish, newly planted and filter plants in place.
ammonia is gone, nitrates are at 4 and nitrates are at 40ppm.
My question is: do I need to do a partial water change to lower the nitrates?
This is a part I don't understand from all the "how to cycle your tank" videos... Should I do water changes during this process? At what point?
Yes partial water changes will lower the Nitrate. You will have to be consistent with the water changes and test the aquarium water as your fish and plants grow.
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On 6/16/2024 at 12:46 AM, DallasCowboys16 said:
I’ve used them all. Aqueon Quiet Flow, Fluval C2, Tetra Whisper, Seachem Tidal, Marineland Penguin, and nothing is better than Aquaclear. Everything else seems way over engineered for no good reason and is cartridge oriented, which makes for a less than optimal experience if you want to use your own media.
Aquaclears move lots of water, have a huge and wide open media chamber that you can put anything in you’d like, and just keep kicking no matter what.
Also, for those of you with the impeller startup issue, I’ve got a tip: take your filter plug and rapidly plug/unplug it in your outlet (generally just barely putting it in the outlet and wiggling it back and fourth is the best) and generally the impeller will be shaken free. I’ve used this trick with Aquaclears and Fluval canisters for years.
That is a great t tip. I've used my little pinky finger many times 😆
@DallasCowboys16 thanks for sharing.
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On 6/15/2024 at 6:36 PM, JohnNYC said:
A few days ago I noticed that one my neon tetras was bloated and tending to be less active towards the back of the tank. I set up a 5 gallon hospital tank. My hospital/QT has new fish in it so I needed to purchase a tank and set it up. I also bought Maracyn 2 in case it's dropsy. Today I am home, tank is ready, but the fish is reasonably active. It still looks bloated though. The belly looks bloated. I am not seeing obvious bloating.
Should I isolate the fish and treat it anyway? Should I use the maracyn 2 or salt? I also have the medicine trio on hand. There are no white spots on it. Any thoughts?
It's possible may be carrying eggs. @JohnNYC
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Aquaclear was the number hob filter for years. I was interested in the tidal but never got one. I have 2 Aquaclear 70's on two separate aquariums. I agree with @Lennieabout the water level and self priming. I also use Marineland hob filters never had a priming issue but the filter housing doesn't compare to the aquaclear.
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On 6/14/2024 at 4:05 PM, Gannon said:
I have no idea how to bag them, but I’m sure that would be better. Maybe I should try to learn or something.
I suggest a Styrofoam box if you decide to use a large bag. Also suggest going to a reputable lfs to teach you how to properly bag fish. I recommend using the largest bag possible to hold more air. Do you have a portable air aquarium pump?
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On 6/14/2024 at 1:38 PM, T. Payne said:
In my experience ghost shrimp are always a toss up as to whether they will survive or not. There are so many species ranging from freshwater to brackish that you never really know which species you have unless you collect them yourself. The cherry shrimp in your aquarium could be an excellent source of food for your pipe fish if you are successful in keeping them and them reproducing.
I'll definitely read the information.
Thanks for sharing! @JettsPapa
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On 6/14/2024 at 12:54 PM, Cjbear087 said:
So my fish have a pretty severe case of fin rot which doesn't seem to be getting better and I have a few questions about Maracyn 1 and 2. I have heard that Maracyn 1 is safe for beneficial bacteria but Maracyn 2 kills it and crashes your cycle. What I was thinking is I will order both and complete a full treatment of Maracyn 1 and then leave it for a few weeks, and if I see any improvement I wont bother with 2. However if its still bad I will then do a course of 2. The reason I dont really want to do 2 is because I have to take out my filter and everything and have a chance of losing my cycle and its just a big pain. Do I have to use them simultaneously or will my plan be fine? Thanks
If possible take the infected fish out and treat in a tote or spare aquarium. If you can't do that take out your biomedia or sponge filters and place in another aquarium or bucket with aquarium water with a airstone until you treat your fish. Maracyn has been around since the 80's or earlier l wouldn't trust it to not kill beneficial bacteria.
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I've kept saltwater shrimp but newbie to freshwater species. I did add a group of Ghost shrimp a few months ago but lost all but one. Bought 6 cherry shrimp 2 weeks ago lost one which I noticed had the ring of death. Probably lost one not acclimating correctly. I've read that Ghost shrimp could be a issue. Not really caring about the cherry shrimp breeding because they are in a 40 gallon breeder with a pair of small freshwater pipefish.
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On 6/13/2024 at 2:09 PM, tolstoy21 said:
I have fallen in love with these tetras. Very active. I dig their colors. Not shy or skittish in the least bit. Fun little fish.
Hyphessobrycon Peugeoti
I'm assuming that's the male with all the color @tolstoy21
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On 6/13/2024 at 2:10 PM, TinaPax-Peeks said:
I have a bag of small seashells and was wondering if the shells would affect water chemistry in the tank?
Also, would seashells I collect from the beach be okay? Any prep work required before adding to tank?
Aquarium specs:
20 gallon, freshwater
7.4 pH
Planted.
Will (probably) house: Betta, tetras, Cory cats, shrimp, snails
Yes sea shells can effect ph but it depends on how many and the size of the aquarium. Tbh it may take time when the sea shells start to break down.
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Flowerhorn are hybrid so the size will vary.
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On 6/12/2024 at 4:45 PM, Vonz1 said:
Hello,
My betta Oscar keeps glass surfing and I really don't know why. The water parameters are the same. Nothing has really changed. He was playful and active and now he mostly glass chases. I tried turning off the light for an hour to see what happens and he eventually goes back to glass chasing with the light off. Is this common for a betta or is this a sign of sickness? Not really sure. Thank you!
- pH 7.4-7.6
- Nitrates 0ppm
- Hardness GH 100-200 ppm
- Nitrite 0ppm
- Ammonia 0ppm
- KH/Buffer 50-100 ppm
- Water Temperature 77.9 F
Normally male betta will do that if they see their reflection but the gills would be flared. @Vonz1
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How long have you had the corydora?
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Update added a group of cherry shrimp. Lost two of them one had the ring of death which I knew nothing about. Tbh didn't do enough research.
Imagitarium shrimp buddy
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
Wow that's awesome! @Guppysnail