Lennie

You can ask me anytime when you have questions, either here or in pms. Even tho they are somehow popular, I remember struggling to find good info online before when I got them. Here are some examples of rabbit snails you may find interesting since you liked the look of the other one:

If you like such body coloration, you can find many rabbit snails with spots and different colors. Check them out

Japanese trapdoors and rabbit snails. both are awesome. Both like to bury from time to time in my tanks so I would recommend finer sand. Here you go:

I wanted to correct a mistake that's going on here to make sure nobody makes the same mistake. I bought my crabs as "vampire crabs". I also saw some other sites selling mine as Vampire crabs too. Well, they are not! They are actually Lepidothelphusa SP crabs. So this is important because they don't have exact same needs. In case anyone wants to learn more, check this video out: I feel like this wrong naming is sometimes more dangerous than we think about and may result in the damage of a life due to different care needs.

Alien bettas are hybrids themselves, so they cant be f0 because they dont exist in the wild, so neither can be pure. For something to be wild, they should actually exist in the wild as they are. At best they can have some wild genetics I believe. I would let it settle and color up to its best and check again for specific breed qualifications

That looks like a different scenario. I believe the reason why your jar didnt probably work is because it is pretty small space for 3 mystery snails and shrimp and has no filter and/or absurd amount of fast growing plants so no cycle or anything to help with potential ammonia or nitrite (if there is any) toxicity. Mystery snails have a huge bioload and shrimp do well in seasoned tanks and ofcourse both require a cycled tank with no off parameters. Did you test the water for ammonia and nitrite back then from the jar? Also in the picture above, the mystery snail looks scared to use its antenna. Thats basically how they feel around and move normally as they have poor vision. That says something about potential agression or harassing easily. You should see those antennas flowing around freely. I cant clearly tell if there is antenna damage there of its hiding because of being scared. but instead, should be like this, feeling around moving freely:

First things first I would not categorize pest snails with more of the “pet” ones and shrimps. Pest snails are quite hardy in general. They can tolerate undesirable situations and conditions much much better in my experience. In addition, those small ramshorns are usually not interesting to a regular fish as much as a shrimp or bigger snail with wormlike huge antennas can be. This is more about fish potentially showing interest here I believe. Those ramshorns may face some damage if you happen to put them in a puffer tank for example, since this way, they will be the potential food target by the specific fish. If you ask me, I think shrimp are silly and they trust unconditionally. I keep shrimp in 10 different community tanks at this point, they seem to lack the surviving instinct. I think that is the most possible scenario. The other one can be your water has stuff that are deadly for shrimp, maybe like copper? But then, how are ramshorns thriving is the question. They dont sound to tolerate but thrive you say. So I still think it is the aggression

Hello there To answer your question: do nothing. My KH is 20 and I haven't seen or heard any fish dying from kh reading being 12 before. There must be something else I believe, 12 kh does not sound extreme to me. If I were you I wouldn't add more fish to that tank if you don't want it overstocked. It already seems decently stocked as it is. Also it is a high tank rather than long. Fish usually utilise the length and depth more than the height. And you already utilise the height of the tank by keeping fish that spend time on different levels. If you really wanna add a few more fish, I would suggest increasing the size of an existing school rather than having another. But overall I would not add anything, as gradually some guppy fry will likely survive even in a community tank considering your tank offers hiding places with plants. So gradually your tank will have an increasing population anyway. Im not familiar with the filter you mentioned. Maybe US peeps can help with that better.

I think it is the stocking. Your tank is way overstocked for pet vibe snails and shrimp to be comfy and your fish selection is risky for them anyway. Ive even seen with my eyes baby guppies constantly picking on mystery snail flesh bothering and scaring him. Your tanks are stocked with fish that may easily show interest to and bother shrimp/snails. Very likely, they will be bothered or even killed, either directly or passively. I think this is the main reason why you don't succeed.

Very pretty I thought you have more than one! I remembered wrong then. Sorry

Has anyone tried breeding Acarichthys heckelii / Threadfin Acara? I am considering to buy a group of juveniles and grow them up together and let them choose their mating partners, if there will be any. However, I keep seeing different stuff about their breeding age. Some say 2 yo, some say 3. Some talk about much smaller size, some say 7''size. Is there anyone who may share their personal experience? @dasaltemelosguy I know you have some. Have you ever experienced any breeding behavior mate?

Out of 6 guppy tanks, I had one bully female. She was a serious bully I could never imagine a guppy would act like this. So I assume it is rare, but happens. However, mine was aggressive versus both males and females in the tank

Thats what happened to me when I got my first endlers. The male suddenly disappeared. I have never been able to find it to this day. No where around or inside the tank. It is a mystery. Females were pregnant, so I have tens of them right now. Females kept giving birth without a male for months, so now they are a colony. However the mystery continues for me as well. However in my case it was only a single male. Your number is a bit too much for this mystery

More like rams on sky blue substrate. I see nothing blue regarding the rams from this picture 😝😄 also they have an interesting choice there to mix them with kribs.

Flies and birds. Their all time fav 😝 No way a cat uses something specifically bought for them! Lie! 🤣

My rummynoses school quite often in general I would say. They are not scared at all and they have those amazing head coloring. The usual behavior of theirs is like, they school tightly and go to a certain location in the tank, search around for food and stuff, and school tightly again if they are changing the location in the tank. I have never, in these 2 years of keeping rummynoses, saw one leaving the school behind to do its own thing when they decide to move. I don't know if there is any others that school this tightly. I dont have bigger schoolers so maybe yours might be potentially cared of them? Idk. Pleae update us on that one. The thing is, if rummynose are scared, they instantly lose that red color for whatever reason. Water change, lights turning on, bad/off parameters, stress, whatever you scenario you think of. They are skittish creatures. Also they can be wildcaught I think? I think this is where "they are sensitive" claim comes from. Because if you ask me, they are very hardy. However as I mentioned mine are bleheri. Idk if this has any effect on their schooling behavior or not. There are 3 species of "rummynose" and one is not even from the same family if Im not mistaken: Maybe It can be nice for everyone to mention their specific breed so we may have an understanding if their schooling behavior changes based on the species?

these look amazing to me

I used to keep mine at 60x40cm tank. Now they are 100x40 tank and I can easily say they like it better here. But it was more of a quality of life upgrade rather than a must I feel like. I started with a group of 10, now have 8 after all this time. The more the merrier. Especially considering rummynoses school tightly much more than common schooling fish in the hobby, I would recommend increasing the size of the school as much as your tank allows and you can afford. But mine do well as 8 currently, but 10-15 would be nicer. Mine are Hemigrammus bleheri, I did not know the difference when I got them but I really love their deeper and wider red coloration. Maybe you can pay attention to that while buying some.

Hi! The average lifespan is usually 1ish years. Depends on the size you buy, 6 months may be normal (like adopting or buying an adult size) or under the ideal. Low 20Cs may make them a bit less active tho. 23-24-25C range is better I believe. I would enrich their diet better and feed them daily. Especially in terms of calcium and greens. Would def add veggies preferably once every two days at least. I would encourage you to try making your own snello. Believe me, a life saver! I think fish leftovers and hikari one should cover their protein needs. Make sure to feed them daily. Hikari algae wafers dont contain much variety and ratio of algae if Im not mistaken. Might be nice to add some algae wafer which is rich in different algae types. Like Tropical's Hi-Algae for example, which ha 5 different algae types and amounting to more than %52 of the food. You may find stuff like that. Repashy must be a good option too I think. ( @Chick-In-Of-TheSea) You should also closely observe your fish's behavior towards the snail. I had one in my panda guppy tank, which seemed not active much. Then one time, I saw that even the baby guppies were trying to bite it when it comes out of its shell. You never know. Your fish or other inverts might be bothering them too much. They cant see well and mainly depend on feeling stuff around them. So even shrimps may be bothering for them sometimes. Scared or hurt snail likely won't open and this may even lead to death. Also make sure they have some space on top of the tank. They like it. They need it. Sometimes I see people fully filling their tank. For a more in depth guide, check this out:

When the stuff gets a lil technical like racks, system building etc. Im not great at those. These stuff are usually covered by my dad as his profession helps him a lot to design the best way. He designed everything for the fish room. That was a big help. I instead got the tanks custom made, scape, plant, cycle and stock. Im more of the hobbyist one here I hope other peeps may help. Fingers-crossed for your new project! 🤞🏼

I have 3 of these in my bedroom tanks instead of fishroom tanks (except pencilfish). I bet that says something! I love them too I guess I dont have a favorite. But I recently noticed that I really enjoy watching my panda guppy colony tank and my new additions, luminatus! Pygmy cories are always a joy to me, that's nothing new.

Thank you everyone for your comments

Maybe stuff like elodea or hornwort but not plants like frogbit salvinia etc

I think leaning towards more algae based ones would be a better idea as they are mainly herbivores. I had a group of 16 pygmy cories and 5 otocinlus. Both were schooling together. Otos were eating commercial food due to following pygmys and imitating whatever they do, including taking a gulp of air from the surface. It was sweet, however I guess animal protein rich food didnt do good for otos. I had no choice to stop them from eating the same stuff with pygmys other than seperating them. I lost one oto to bloating and I blame the animal protein rich food they eat with pygmys. So long story short, I would keep otos diet algae based mainly and try to offer surfaces and natural growth as much as I can in the tank.

@Cinnebuns may help. She was breeding for colors if I remember correctly