Arnam Anan

I haven't replaced myself. But did a quick search for diaphragm and found these. You can try to email Candy / aquarium co op and see if they have the part number for it.

Hi @Seattle_Aquarist, I de-gased tap water for 24 hours, and stayed the same at about 6.4 pH. As for crushed coral, I heard Cory and Bentley both suggesting it as a supplement substrate for softer water. As my Kh is zero, use that as a buffer. Just to make it clear, I use crushed coral in substrate and not add more during water change. In your opinion, what is the best way to buffer Kh? If I don't use crushed coral and use baking soda, wouldn't that tank be more susceptible to pH swings and pH crashes? I keep fish in both tanks and feed daily. Thanks.

NYC tap water. PH: 6.4-6.8 Kh: 0 (buffered using crushed coral to 3-4) Gh: 0-25 ppm ( buffered using Seachem Equilibrium to ~ 200 ppm) Nutrients: Easy Green ~4 pumps twice a week in 10 gallon tank and ~20 pumps in 55 gallon tank. Let me know if you need any other info. Thanks.

Hello nerms!!! I think I am having some issues with plant growth. If you see the photo, the older leaves are 2 to 3 times bigger whereas the new growth is really small. I noticed the same with my anubias plants (congensis, nana, and nana petite) as well. The leaves look healthy otherwise. Is there something I am missing? I dose Easy Green and have the Co-op light at 50%. Another tank with Hygger 24/7 at 100%. I dose quite heavily 3-4 times the recommended dose twice a week. For anubias plants, I assumed they were grown out of water and submerged growth is smaller compared to emarsed growth. But after getting bigger salvania recently, they also turned small in my tank. Thanks in advance.

WARNINGS: 1. DO NOT Perform the following troubleshooting actions if your Aquarium Air pump is still under warranty. It WILL void the warranty. 2. Do it at your own risk. The Author or this forum shall not be liable for any damage caused by following procedures. Step 1: Unplug and turn off the air pump. Take all 4 screws from the back casing. #2 Phillips Head Bit Step 2: Flip the back portion to expose the internals of the device. Inspect all wiring and 4 white Lego connectors connecting to the circuit board. Inspect for general wear and tears, especially around the magnet rubbing against the motor, corrosion, water damage, battery leakage, etc. Caution: Do not rip open the wirings when trying to flip the back casing. Step 3: Pull out both plastic housings with diaphragm. It should be snug-fitting housing and should require little to no force to pull out. Step 4: You can separate the diaphragm and the housing by lifting the edge of the diaphragm. Inspect the diaphragm, metal bracket, and the tightness of the screw. The diaphragm should be malleable and not have any cracks or be hard/dry. The diaphragm can be purchased on Amazon but you will have to research the size. Step 5: Inspect the plastic housing. Take out the black rubber piece and the white rubber flap. For me, the point of failure was the white rubber flap. I would assume that happened because of too much back pressure. cleaned it off and put everything back together to fix the issue. To put everything back, follow directions in reverse chronological order. Suggestions for makers: 1. make the housing bigger by an inch. Will accommodate a bigger motor and another battery for extra power. 2. make the battery removable. Can be done quite easily. Not only that, the User can also replace and order with or without batteries. 3. I would also highly consider if this product is actually needed in the hobby. Here is solar solar-powered battery backup air pump for Pond that produces a lot more air from its single outlet compared to the co-op duel outlet air pump. For comparison: 1. Power: Both air stones provided with this no-name air pump were powered by the single outlet of this air pump for about 2 days on its medium power settings. The aquarium co-op duel outlet air pump failed to produce air from these slightly bigger airstones even when I combined both outlets to produce air from a single air stone. 2. Solar: It has a solar panel, but I think it's garbage. I tested in the winter months. So, there's that. But I still think that's a gimmicky feature. Non-existing in Co-op air pumps. 3. Battery Backup: Lasted a little bit less than 2 days in its medium setting. In power saving mode, advertises to last 96 hours but in my testing, about 3 days. The co-op air pump did not last a day in power-saving mode. 4. Accessories: Comes with two air stones, ~ 5 feet of airlines, and a Charging cable; no power adapter was included. Warranty nonexistent and/or not sure. The co-op air pump does come with a power adapter and newer versions are rumored to come with all the accessories listed with the no-name brand air pump and as a bonus 1 year of warranty. However, I ordered two co-op air pumps earlier last year and didn't get the airstones and the airlines. 5. Build Quality: I have not opened up the no-name air pump (Because still running), so can not describe the internal component. The outside casing for both is on par with each other. I like the rubber feet of the co-op air pump more compared to the silicone bead feet on the no-name one. The metal hook in the back for hanging the air pump hangs out on the no-name pump, so you can use the hook or to use the feet, you will have to take the hook off. The co-op pump lets you use either the hook or feet without removing any hardware. 6. Specs: No- name: solar panel = 5v/1w, Adapter Input= DC 5v/1A Micro USB, Battery=3.7v 3600mAh Max air: 1L/min Co-op Pump: power consumption = 2.1 W , Max air = 1.6 L/min air flow, Adapter Input=5V USB-C ( From co-op website) 7. Price: I feel like this is a tricky bit. No-name is marketed as 30 USD but is often discounted for way less. I purchased mine for 16~17 USD. Duel outlet now selling for 40 USD. Disclaimer: I do not make a single penny by promoting either of these products. I am simply trying to make a better hobby for everyone. All are written from my observation only. I am also not including any links to either of the products. Thank you for reading and feel free to share your experience and feedback.

I mean I wanted to see if leeches were as deadly as the the internet seems to think. So far, I would say they are mostly harmless might eat 1-2 snails a month but snails reproduce way faster. I personally don't mind leeches and I have seen fishes eating them. To me, they are another food source for the fishes. I don't really feeds store bought black worms. I culture them about once in a month from a 5 gallon bucket setup.

January 30th Restarted the experiment again. I say restarted, but it's more like 100% water change and removed dead snail shells for a more reliable count for the next month. Counted 17 leeches on there and 6 snails still alive. There's 2 clutches of snail eggs in there too. Expectation: 4-5 snails will be alive and possibly another boom and bust cycle of leeches.

December 31, 2023. Almost 2/3 population of leeches died of in a day. Water has been slowing losing the green water algae and clearing up. I suspect that was the cause of the die off. All live snails are still alive in there. I also noticed that leeches prayed upon the snail egg clusters but did not attack any live snails in this period. Though I did see those leeches on top of some of the snail shells.

Thank you. That's a 55 gallon tank. I also have a 10 gallon and 5 gallon tank.

You get a bonus point 😀

So, I found a leech in one of my tanks. I figured I would look at how leeches feed on a snail. Over time, I found about 5-10 leeches in the tank and I put all of them in a small container. I have put 10 -20 snails in there. For the past couple of months, they cohabitated in that small container. I can count 9 living snails in there. There is also a colony of Cyclops in there (Which wasn't intended) and about 30 leeches in there. I also saw 5 clutches of snail eggs in there. There's green water in there and a couple of strings of java moss in there. I have not water changed or put food in there. I was hoping without food, those leeches would start to feed on the snails 😑 I guess the internet freaks out for nothing. P.S. Bonus point for IDing the container 😁

Apologies. Yeah, everyone gets along just fine. I had a columnaris outbreak and almost took out half the population of the smaller species (Guppies, neon tetra, black neon tetra, rainbow shiners, etc.) but, I am assuming you were asking about the larger species (Blue gourami, pearl gourami, moonlight gourami, neon gourami, blood parrot, betta, etc). In that case, yeah, they got along just fine. Other than the blood parrot, none interact much with other species. He usually wants the first bite of any food I put in.

Has anyone had a success hatching capsule of daphnia eggs? If you had any success, can you please share your recipe. I have recently purchased some and tried to hatch them 6 different ways. Used Ro water, aquarium water and green water and with or without air but had zero success . Thank you.

I don't doubt you. That's what I am thinking as well. But I just can't figure out what it is. I always bring them to room temp before putting them in the tank. Even though I have soft water, I added minerals to combat that. For food, calcium rich food. Didn't even perform water change in the 5 gallon jar because didn't want to change the parameters. Always had some kind of air going in the tanks. If it was harassment from fish, 5g would not have any issues. developed algae in all the tanks before adding shrimps.

Yeah, I suppose you are right. I heard they were pretty hardy. I will give them another go then.