Arnam Anan

I haven't replaced myself. But did a quick search for diaphragm and found these. You can try to email Candy / aquarium co op and see if they have the part number for it.

Hi @Seattle_Aquarist, I de-gased tap water for 24 hours, and stayed the same at about 6.4 pH. As for crushed coral, I heard Cory and Bentley both suggesting it as a supplement substrate for softer water. As my Kh is zero, use that as a buffer. Just to make it clear, I use crushed coral in substrate and not add more during water change. In your opinion, what is the best way to buffer Kh? If I don't use crushed coral and use baking soda, wouldn't that tank be more susceptible to pH swings and pH crashes? I keep fish in both tanks and feed daily. Thanks.

NYC tap water. PH: 6.4-6.8 Kh: 0 (buffered using crushed coral to 3-4) Gh: 0-25 ppm ( buffered using Seachem Equilibrium to ~ 200 ppm) Nutrients: Easy Green ~4 pumps twice a week in 10 gallon tank and ~20 pumps in 55 gallon tank. Let me know if you need any other info. Thanks.

Hello nerms!!! I think I am having some issues with plant growth. If you see the photo, the older leaves are 2 to 3 times bigger whereas the new growth is really small. I noticed the same with my anubias plants (congensis, nana, and nana petite) as well. The leaves look healthy otherwise. Is there something I am missing? I dose Easy Green and have the Co-op light at 50%. Another tank with Hygger 24/7 at 100%. I dose quite heavily 3-4 times the recommended dose twice a week. For anubias plants, I assumed they were grown out of water and submerged growth is smaller compared to emarsed growth. But after getting bigger salvania recently, they also turned small in my tank. Thanks in advance.

WARNINGS: 1. DO NOT Perform the following troubleshooting actions if your Aquarium Air pump is still under warranty. It WILL void the warranty. 2. Do it at your own risk. The Author or this forum shall not be liable for any damage caused by following procedures. Step 1: Unplug and turn off the air pump. Take all 4 screws from the back casing. #2 Phillips Head Bit Step 2: Flip the back portion to expose the internals of the device. Inspect all wiring and 4 white Lego connectors connecting to the circuit board. Inspect for general wear and tears, especially around the magnet rubbing against the motor, corrosion, water damage, battery leakage, etc. Caution: Do not rip open the wirings when trying to flip the back casing. Step 3: Pull out both plastic housings with diaphragm. It should be snug-fitting housing and should require little to no force to pull out. Step 4: You can separate the diaphragm and the housing by lifting the edge of the diaphragm. Inspect the diaphragm, metal bracket, and the tightness of the screw. The diaphragm should be malleable and not have any cracks or be hard/dry. The diaphragm can be purchased on Amazon but you will have to research the size. Step 5: Inspect the plastic housing. Take out the black rubber piece and the white rubber flap. For me, the point of failure was the white rubber flap. I would assume that happened because of too much back pressure. cleaned it off and put everything back together to fix the issue. To put everything back, follow directions in reverse chronological order. Suggestions for makers: 1. make the housing bigger by an inch. Will accommodate a bigger motor and another battery for extra power. 2. make the battery removable. Can be done quite easily. Not only that, the User can also replace and order with or without batteries. 3. I would also highly consider if this product is actually needed in the hobby. Here is solar solar-powered battery backup air pump for Pond that produces a lot more air from its single outlet compared to the co-op duel outlet air pump. For comparison: 1. Power: Both air stones provided with this no-name air pump were powered by the single outlet of this air pump for about 2 days on its medium power settings. The aquarium co-op duel outlet air pump failed to produce air from these slightly bigger airstones even when I combined both outlets to produce air from a single air stone. 2. Solar: It has a solar panel, but I think it's garbage. I tested in the winter months. So, there's that. But I still think that's a gimmicky feature. Non-existing in Co-op air pumps. 3. Battery Backup: Lasted a little bit less than 2 days in its medium setting. In power saving mode, advertises to last 96 hours but in my testing, about 3 days. The co-op air pump did not last a day in power-saving mode. 4. Accessories: Comes with two air stones, ~ 5 feet of airlines, and a Charging cable; no power adapter was included. Warranty nonexistent and/or not sure. The co-op air pump does come with a power adapter and newer versions are rumored to come with all the accessories listed with the no-name brand air pump and as a bonus 1 year of warranty. However, I ordered two co-op air pumps earlier last year and didn't get the airstones and the airlines. 5. Build Quality: I have not opened up the no-name air pump (Because still running), so can not describe the internal component. The outside casing for both is on par with each other. I like the rubber feet of the co-op air pump more compared to the silicone bead feet on the no-name one. The metal hook in the back for hanging the air pump hangs out on the no-name pump, so you can use the hook or to use the feet, you will have to take the hook off. The co-op pump lets you use either the hook or feet without removing any hardware. 6. Specs: No- name: solar panel = 5v/1w, Adapter Input= DC 5v/1A Micro USB, Battery=3.7v 3600mAh Max air: 1L/min Co-op Pump: power consumption = 2.1 W , Max air = 1.6 L/min air flow, Adapter Input=5V USB-C ( From co-op website) 7. Price: I feel like this is a tricky bit. No-name is marketed as 30 USD but is often discounted for way less. I purchased mine for 16~17 USD. Duel outlet now selling for 40 USD. Disclaimer: I do not make a single penny by promoting either of these products. I am simply trying to make a better hobby for everyone. All are written from my observation only. I am also not including any links to either of the products. Thank you for reading and feel free to share your experience and feedback.

I mean I wanted to see if leeches were as deadly as the the internet seems to think. So far, I would say they are mostly harmless might eat 1-2 snails a month but snails reproduce way faster. I personally don't mind leeches and I have seen fishes eating them. To me, they are another food source for the fishes. I don't really feeds store bought black worms. I culture them about once in a month from a 5 gallon bucket setup.

January 30th Restarted the experiment again. I say restarted, but it's more like 100% water change and removed dead snail shells for a more reliable count for the next month. Counted 17 leeches on there and 6 snails still alive. There's 2 clutches of snail eggs in there too. Expectation: 4-5 snails will be alive and possibly another boom and bust cycle of leeches.

December 31, 2023. Almost 2/3 population of leeches died of in a day. Water has been slowing losing the green water algae and clearing up. I suspect that was the cause of the die off. All live snails are still alive in there. I also noticed that leeches prayed upon the snail egg clusters but did not attack any live snails in this period. Though I did see those leeches on top of some of the snail shells.

Thank you. That's a 55 gallon tank. I also have a 10 gallon and 5 gallon tank.

You get a bonus point 😀

So, I found a leech in one of my tanks. I figured I would look at how leeches feed on a snail. Over time, I found about 5-10 leeches in the tank and I put all of them in a small container. I have put 10 -20 snails in there. For the past couple of months, they cohabitated in that small container. I can count 9 living snails in there. There is also a colony of Cyclops in there (Which wasn't intended) and about 30 leeches in there. I also saw 5 clutches of snail eggs in there. There's green water in there and a couple of strings of java moss in there. I have not water changed or put food in there. I was hoping without food, those leeches would start to feed on the snails 😑 I guess the internet freaks out for nothing. P.S. Bonus point for IDing the container 😁

Apologies. Yeah, everyone gets along just fine. I had a columnaris outbreak and almost took out half the population of the smaller species (Guppies, neon tetra, black neon tetra, rainbow shiners, etc.) but, I am assuming you were asking about the larger species (Blue gourami, pearl gourami, moonlight gourami, neon gourami, blood parrot, betta, etc). In that case, yeah, they got along just fine. Other than the blood parrot, none interact much with other species. He usually wants the first bite of any food I put in.

Has anyone had a success hatching capsule of daphnia eggs? If you had any success, can you please share your recipe. I have recently purchased some and tried to hatch them 6 different ways. Used Ro water, aquarium water and green water and with or without air but had zero success . Thank you.

I don't doubt you. That's what I am thinking as well. But I just can't figure out what it is. I always bring them to room temp before putting them in the tank. Even though I have soft water, I added minerals to combat that. For food, calcium rich food. Didn't even perform water change in the 5 gallon jar because didn't want to change the parameters. Always had some kind of air going in the tanks. If it was harassment from fish, 5g would not have any issues. developed algae in all the tanks before adding shrimps.

Yeah, I suppose you are right. I heard they were pretty hardy. I will give them another go then.

I use api water conditioner, easy green liquid fertilizer. As for additives, I use Seachem equilibrium and crushed coral to raise gh and kh. As for bottled water, I think for shrimp keeping is not a bad idea if you are keeping 1-2 tanks. I have heard of shrimp keeper going years without changing water.

So, I have super glued the skimmer and the bottom of the pump housing box, and installed pre filter sponge on the intake. I personally would buy the aqua clear next time instead of tidal but that's besides the point. I only had either a sponge filter (10g)or just an air stone(in the 5 gallon jar) with my shrimps. I never put them in the 55g to begin with. I just put 2 blue dreams in there after losing 9 of them in the 10g. These two actually lasted the longest. Good to know. I know about filter feeders do that but didn't know neos and caridina's do that as well. I perform weekly water change ~20% Clean the tidal every week. Sponge filter every month. Don't really syphon the gravel. I have to dose easy green 3 times the suggested dose every other days to keep up with plant intake. if I miss one day, it reads 0 ppm nitrate. I mean I can go longer without water change without any issues. I have gone more than a month without changing water and everything was fine. I don't like to look at mulm build up which is why I clean the tidal every week. I don't really siphon the substrate. What ever tidal and sponge filter picks up goes to my house plants.

Hi, I think I can explain that antenna hiding. As you can see, I believe that is their sleeping/resting position. Taken right now. I can post a picture late afternoon when they are active. Both of them are pretty active and has long antennas. And while it's possible that they were stressed and/or harassed, I didn't see any sign of missing antenna which I did notice in ramshorns though in 10g when I added a betta to it. He was definitely interested in ramshorn antennas. My jar water is also being tested regularly and didn't see any measurable difference between the tank and jar other than nitrate being almost always zero in there. I have also tested for ammonia but same result. As for mystery snails and shrimp in the jar. that didn't happen. I didn't have mystery snails when I was trying shrimps. And now that I am trying snails, I don't have any shrimps rn. I just added a handful of ramshorn, mosses, and floaters to the jar 2-3 months before I added my last order of 20 mixed neos. During this time I monitored water parameters quite closely and performed 1 water change halfway through the cycling. I did feed the ramshorn snails during this time and before adding the 20 neos, I removed 20 ramshorn snails that way there is not enough change in bioload. I was about to post this reply 😂 and saw this guy moving around.

So, at this point, I was thinking about going caridina route. Any thoughts? I mean I have pretty soft water coming out of my tap. If I add some driftwood, it should lower the ph to 6.4, I think.

Here's some screenshots. I did add my last 20 mixed neos in the 5 gallon water dispenser. But they all dropped like flies from the floaters up top. I did have one air stone in there back then. that was like 4-5 months ago. Surprisingly not one fish showed interest when they dropped dead. I even left them overnight in the fish tank but only ramshorn snails showed interest. I don't think I saw molting issue. I did find some clear molted shells of the ghost shrimps that I got from petco but nothing from neos. I don't doubt you that it can be aggression. but for my last order, I added them in a 5 gallon qt tank. They all died in there as well in the same fashion. There were only ramshorn snails in there and bunch of other mosses and floaters. As for copper, I tested that but didn't find anything.

Hey Thank you for the detailed information. So, I have one small/medium sponge filter in the 10g. I have 1 large co op sponge filter on the left, 1 air stone in the right and a tidal 50/55? hob in the 55g. I am pretty sure that my tanks have plenty of air circulation going on. I know I have a really heavy bioload on the 55 but I didn't add my shrimps in there. In the picture, It's just guppies reproduced so much buy I didn't have as many in there when I added the shrimps. actually 2 blue dreams that survived the longest, I moved them from the 10 g to 55g. Here's a picture of my make shift qt tank. I have added 2 of my last mystery snails out of 8 that I bought from different vendors. This is also where I added 20 mixed neos and they all perished within 3 weeks. At that time, I only had bunch of ramshorn in there and a lot of mosses and floater. I saw them grazing all day long but slowly one would just fall off the floaters and die. I didn't have any predatory fish or anything in there. That's why I am so confused. Even if it wasn't acclimated properly, I don't think any fish or shrimp would die after 3 weeks because of it. You also mentioned not to mix pet with pest snails. While I do agree that pest snails like ramshorn are hardier in general, the same should go for Malaysian Trumpet snails . I have added 4-5 different order of MTSs in both of my tanks. I would just see the empty shells of them whenever I would remove debris from the bottom of my tanks. As for food after failing couple of time, I ended up buying the crab cuisine and xtreme shrimpy food as those are full of minerals and calcium for the shrimps. I will keep in mind of how you showed the drip acclimating process if I end up buying more shrimps/snails.

I mean I would understand that. But If that was the case , MTSs would not be dying as they mostly stays burrowed. and ramshorn snails would not be able to thrive. Now I would also understand that if fishes were bothering them but all of the shrimps seems to be like to stay on the moss and water lettuce roots, they would not bother running from the fish either. I sometimes looked at them for 6-7 hours a day. While I have seen some quite literally drop dead from floating roots, I have not once seen any fish bother them. As a matter of fact, After they died, no fish even showed interest in eating the dead shrimps. Same for the mystery snails and nerite snails. So, while they might have been harassed, I was not able to see any sign of that. I almost forgot. I also had a five gallon tank with just shrimp and snails. No fish. and the same this happened.

So, I understand where you are coming from. They don't have 10 degree swings every night or anything like that. I keep my room heated in the winter and I have an aquarium co op heater installed as a fail safe and set it to 70 degrees but I didn't see it getting turned on yet. And like I said, Most of the time my room temp is sitting at 74 degrees. with the light and other equipment tank usually stays at 76-78 degrees.

So, I am using api water conditioner. It also states that it detoxifies heavy metal. And, as for feeding,I feed variety of foods as stated above.

Hey, so, I bought all the shrimps from online. Both amanos, red cherry, multiple nerite, mystery snails from Aqua Huna. Blue dream shrimp from eBay ( nissi store), 2 other neo from aquabid. ghost shrimps and crayfish from local petco. Rest of the snails including MTS from some other online stores. Temp swing between 70-80 depending on season. mostly staying at 76-78. at night it doesn't fall a bit but never seen below 71. I do overfeed my fish 3-4 times in the summer and in the winter 2-3 times. I also provide different types of flakes(spirulina, krill, brine shrimp, tetra min), pallets(Xtreme nice semi floating, sami sinking, wafer), pure spirulina powder, live food( bbs, black worm microworm, vinegar eel), freeze dried (daphnia, brine shrimp, tubifex worm), vibra bites, and some other stuff. Of course not everything at once. but yeah, I do feed variety of foods. I also have plenty of algae in the tank for them to graze on.