Re-mineralizing ro/di water

[Nathan04]

I already have an rodi system up and running for my saltwater tanks, and my tapwater can't keep fish alive. So I was wondering how to re mineralize it for tetras, cory's,  and other community fish 

[Daniel]

I add this (sparingly) to my tank of RODI water before I use the water in my aquariums.

[Struggle]

I mix in some of my dechlorinated tap water for fish and shrimp salt for shrimp.

[Hobbit]

I don’t have DI water but my well water has basically nothing in it. To mineralize it I use a combo of cichlid salt (probably something similar to what Daniel has pictured there) and baking soda. I add some calcium carbonate (powdered limestone) every once in a while as well.

[3vi1p3nguin]

I use green leaf aquarium GH booster

[Nathan04]

Follow up question, what tds do you get it to and for what kind of fish

[3vi1p3nguin]

IMO, tds is a misunderstood tool that makes people chase non existent problems. 200 tds with ferts in the water is not the same as 200 tds of waste. If you want to use tds, find out what your tank is at after a water change, gh booster, and any ferts you use, and use that as a starting point. TDS will be higher for higher ph/gh water. For example, if your TDS after all the above is 150, then base any water changes off of that as a starting point.

I target my re-mineralized water based on gh. I typically only use the R/O for one tank, my south american tank, and keep around a gh of 7, which leaves me with a stable ph around 7.2. I use around when re-mineralizing water because in my experience there will always be some slight gh/ph variation in the tank. I do use gh booster and ro for my africans and guppies seasonally based on how my well is, but it takes a significant amount to get there.

edited for grammer

Edited December 14, 2020 by 3vi1p3nguin

[Mmiller2001]

Seachem Equilibrium is solid. Very affordable too. I can hit 5 to 6GH, 4KH and be right at 200 TDS.

Edited December 14, 2020 by Mmiller2001