Need ideas for light shields for multiple situations.

[Odd Duck]

I’ve been trying to come up with a good way to block light between shelves of my racks and even bought some black Coroplast, but so far I haven’t decided on exactly how to hang it so I can lift it fully out of the way when needed.  I think I’m going to end up with a hook and eye arrangement so the sheets can be lifted up a full 180 degrees and latched up with another hook or something.  Maybe magnets to hold it up?  I’ve got some left over that aren’t going to work well for the project I bought them for (not quite strong enough for that but might work for this?).

I currently have black window film hot glued to the shelf above each set of lights (which are fastened to the bottom of the shelf above each set of tanks) but the hot glue is coming loose and I don’t have a good way to hold the stuff up out of the way when working in the tanks.  PITA!  Plus not attractive, “clean”, or “professional” looking at all.  I think I can make the Cloroplast look a lot better, it’s very light weight, and what I bought should be enough for both racks.  I need a good idea for how to hold it up and would like a better idea for how to keep it as tight to the rack as possible but still allow it to “hinge” fully up and out of the way.

Now I just need to figure out how make a good light shield for my other tanks.  I’ve got thin strips of the window film hot glued to the fronts of the lights.  This is fine from a distance but not really impressive closeup.

All thoughts and ideas welcome, but I need the CARE think tank on this!

 

[Tanked]

On 8/31/2022 at 9:38 AM, Odd Duck said:

I’ve been trying to come up with a good way to block light between shelves of my racks and even bought some black Coroplast, but so far I haven’t decided on exactly how to hang it so I can lift it fully out of the way when needed.  I think I’m going to end up with a hook and eye arrangement so the sheets can be lifted up a full 180 degrees and latched up with another hook or something.  Maybe magnets to hold it up?  I’ve got some left over that aren’t going to work well for the project I bought them for (not quite strong enough for that but might work for this?).

I currently have black window film hot glued to the shelf above each set of lights (which are fastened to the bottom of the shelf above each set of tanks) but the hot glue is coming loose and I don’t have a good way to hold the stuff up out of the way when working in the tanks.  PITA!  Plus not attractive, “clean”, or “professional” looking at all.  I think I can make the Cloroplast look a lot better, it’s very light weight, and what I bought should be enough for both racks.  I need a good idea for how to hold it up and would like a better idea for how to keep it as tight to the rack as possible but still allow it to “hinge” fully up and out of the way.

Now I just need to figure out how make a good light shield for my other tanks.  I’ve got thin strips of the window film hot glued to the fronts of the lights.  This is fine from a distance but not really impressive closeup.

All thoughts and ideas welcome, but I need the CARE think tank on this!

 

Hook & Eye fasteners may prove problematic if you are going to use them in tight spaces.  Neodymium magnets are probably the easiest option, and will not wear out. I have some that came with a built in plastic eyelet.  They were used to hang signage from retail ceiling grids. Their holding ability is impressive for their small size. 

Alternatively building a single panel for the side of each rack would look better, and the panel could be hung from the keyhole slots in the rack.  No hinging required.

[lefty o]

magnets as mentioned, or punch some small holes in it, and use small black zip ties as a hinge.

[Odd Duck]

On 8/31/2022 at 9:13 AM, Tanked said:

Hook & Eye fasteners may prove problematic if you are going to use them in tight spaces.  Neodymium magnets are probably the easiest option, and will not wear out. I have some that came with a built in plastic eyelet.  They were used to hang signage from retail ceiling grids. Their holding ability is impressive for their small size. 

Alternatively building a single panel for the side of each rack would look better, and the panel could be hung from the keyhole slots in the rack.  No hinging required.

I said hook and eye, but I was really thinking of the 2 attached eyes as hinges with one attached to the Coroplast and one to the rack.  Then disc magnets attached to the Coroplast that would stick to the uprights of the stand when lifted up.  My issues is a hinge that has some flex in it and a good range.  Am I overthinking it?  Wouldn’t be the first time for me to overthink an issue.  I guess I don’t really need that much flex in the hinges as long as they have full 180 range and would let the Coroplast sheet hang down as flat as possible.  I’m not needing to cover the ends of the racks for now but I might in future.  I only need to cover the fronts.  I’m sure I could do the same attachment to the ends if/when I decide to do so.

I guess I just needed to write this out and have a couple nudges to come up with a plan.  Overthinking as usual.  😆 🤷🏻‍♀️ 

Thanks for the input that nudged my brain out of that rut.  😆 

[Flumpweesel]

Instead of hinging up for access could you do have them pivot at one corner (down and to the side) with a magnet to hold them in the up position. 

 

[Odd Duck]

On 8/31/2022 at 5:44 PM, Flumpweesel said:

Instead of hinging up for access could you do have them pivot at one corner (down and to the side) with a magnet to hold them in the up position. 

 

Like letting the whole 4’ length swing down from a bottom corner to get it out of the way?  The lowest shelf is far less than 4’ high and swinging from a bottom corner, it would still be partly, to very much in the way, depending on which level it was.  Plus I don’t currently have 4’ on either side of the rack, or in front of it to swing that way, for it to have space to swing fully out of the way even if it could flip outward.  And I’ll have less space when the racks are in the Offish.  Hinging downward from each bottom corner would have it in front of the tanks I was working on.

I’m pretty sure I’m not correctly visualizing what you mean.  Can you do a drawing?

[Flumpweesel]

never considered low tanks  ( fool I am ) to be fair it was late but I had a very basic thought was if it could drop to the side you wouldn't need to fiddle around securing things when you wanted access.  I think you have the measure of my idea and side space is crucial as well.

[Flumpweesel]

I'm now pondering things on chains or framework so you open them all in one move. Like a crazy bespoke Venetian blind.

[Odd Duck]

On 9/1/2022 at 11:43 AM, Flumpweesel said:

I'm now pondering things on chains or framework so you open them all in one move. Like a crazy bespoke Venetian blind.

😂 Picturing it, very steam punk, but no, much too complicated even though cool.  😍🥰 🤣

Just a flap(s) to lift as needed with a magnet at one corner to hold it up when needed should do the trick.  😆 🤣  The panels are very light, so I’ll paint the magnets or buy new black ones and use these small ones for something else, then bolt them (they have holes in the middle) through the Coroplast, into a wide washer on the other side, and into a thin nut if I can find them with the right thread.

[nabokovfan87]

foam board + magnets?

I am contemplating putting a cover on my metal stand. I found these....

They also have versions with hardware attachment.
https://www.amazon.com/MIKEDE-Neodymium-Double-Sided-Refrigerator-Industrial/dp/B08K2VL3WJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mikede+strong+neodymium+magnets&qid=1662269606&sprefix=miked%2Caps%2C369&sr=8-4

[Odd Duck]

I have some magnets leftover from the 100 G angel build that I will probably use.  I will be using Coroplast since it waterproof, very light but strong, and solid black all the way through and won’t show different colors after it’s cut.  It’s not as easy to cut as foam board, but way more durable than foam board.  These magnets already have tapered holes in the middle that will let a flat head bolt sit flush.  I think I have 4 left(?) which is how many I will need for the 4 pieces I’ll be using for the 2 racks.  If I do more pieces I’ll buy more magnets.  I did buy some smaller magnets that are too weak for the job I got them for.  I’m not sure what I’ll do with them, but I don’t think they’re strong enough to hold well and I’d have to epoxy them into place.

Links in order: Good magnets, weak magnets, and Coroplast pieces.  Now I just need to find hinges.  Photo is the “good” magnets getting their silicone sealer “gaskets” to keep them from scratching the aquarium glass and reduce the chance of them chipping at the edges.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K6ML8HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSM59L1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0842P77SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited September 5, 2022 by Odd Duck