Drip system with chloramine???

[kkarsten]

I recently moved into an area that uses chloramine in the water.  At my last house, chlorine was used and it wasn't a problem for the drip system.  Sediment filter followed by a couple carbon blocks and all was good.  Now I am struggling.  I set up the 3 stage filter I was previously using and it certainly did remove the chlorine, but in doing so, I am left with around 1ppm ammonia... or ammonium.  The API test kit doesn't tell me the difference.  I should probably get specific test kits.

Either way, I'm sure my biological filter could break that down, but i think it kinda defeats the purpose of the water change (feeding the filter ammonia/ammonium to produce more nitrites/nitrates when my goal is to remove the nitrates).  So for now, I'm treating with Prime before pumping it into the sump.  

Any thoughts or ideas?  I'm really missing my old easy drip.

Picture of sump included for giggles... and suggestions.  There is a 75 gallon vat in the left of the picture that I'm using to treat the water now.  

[Bill Smith]

I had the very same concern that you did before trying it, but took the plunge. I'm glad I did.

I have a similar setup, with chloramines in San Diego that I am breaking down with the carbon block. I am running this via drip system to a 29 and a 38-Long in the same room. I find the remaining ammonia to have no real impact on anything, and the tanks' nitrate levels have stayed low. In fact, that's become a problem because I've taken an interest in plants, and the drip system is counterproductive to keeping fertilizer in the water!

I did spring for the more expensive, higher quality carbon block; I wonder if that may have made a difference.

[kkarsten]

Do you know how much ammonia is left in the water after the carbon blocks? 

Quality of the carbon blocks could be an issue. I purchased them from the filter guys... recommended for breaking down chloramines.  

[Bill Smith]

I believe it was about 0.5 ppm

[Leo2o915]

40 minutes ago, Bill Smith said:

I had the very same concern that you did before trying it, but took the plunge. I'm glad I did.

I have a similar setup, with chloramines in San Diego that I am breaking down with the carbon block. I am running this via drip system to a 29 and a 38-Long in the same room. I find the remaining ammonia to have no real impact on anything, and the tanks' nitrate levels have stayed low. In fact, that's become a problem because I've taken an interest in plants, and the drip system is counterproductive to keeping fertilizer in the water!

I did spring for the more expensive, higher quality carbon block; I wonder if that may have made a difference.

I want to do a drip system how did you set up yours and what type of carbon blocks you use 

[Bill Smith]

I don't want to take over this thread, but here's the short version:

My drip system is the opposite of what you would expect. I drip-drain the tank through a medical I.V. dripper, and then use an aquarium float valve to bring the water back in to my sump.

Water leaving the tank (goes to my sink drain):

Water entering the tank (comes from the carbon block setup):

Float valve designed for aquariums regulates the water level in my sump:

My carbon block setup comes from Amazon:

(You can ignore that tank on the right; this setup is independent of my RO drinking water.)

Filter housing (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078W4HRGX

Sediment filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NCX8A

Carbon block:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051VC7CW

I have been THRILLED with this setup. It uses lots of water, but I can regulate the flow with the I.V. drip, and turn it on/off as needed. I calculate (using a diution calculator), that I am changing about 30% per day, which, with dilution, results in 100% per week.

I grew Congo tetras to full size in 6 months, and I feel water quality was a major factor. My estimate of increased water cost in Southern California is about $5 per tank per month

Hope that helps!

Edited July 16, 2020 by Bill Smith

[Dean’s Fishroom]

I've never had to deal with chloramines myself but have talked with many fishroom folks that have. The simple carbon blocks that most of us use simply put don't allow enough contact time to break that chloramine bond and at the same time absorb it. To do it properly unfortunately is quite an investment as I believe you will need something like this:
 https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/carbon-non-electric-manual-backwash-series/carbon-whole-house-backwash-filter-cws-manual-30-cf-14x65.html?network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=7861880847&adgroup=pla-390033617905&keyword=&_vsrefdom=wordstream&keyword_session_id=vt~adwords|kt~|mt~|ta~394510319935&gclid=CjwKCAjwr7X4BRA4EiwAUXjbt8_YWfFQ1tVii5r-IiU2-CVN-9kMaJGpX6YP_EPdl2zTn7b1_cvf5xoCQcsQAvD_BwE

I have used one of these before and they last a long time but it is a huge investment. Your water basically comes out super clean and pH neutral. Plus I believe the contact time will break the chloramine bond and absorb it.

 

 

[kkarsten]

21 hours ago, Bill Smith said:

I don't want to take over this thread, but here's the short version:

My drip system is the opposite of what you would expect. I drip-drain the tank through a medical I.V. dripper, and then use an aquarium float valve to bring the water back in to my sump.

Water leaving the tank (goes to my sink drain):

Water entering the tank (comes from the carbon block setup):

My carbon block setup comes from Amazon:

(You can ignore that tank on the right; this setup is independent of my RO drinking water.)

Filter housing (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078W4HRGX

Sediment filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NCX8A

Carbon block:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051VC7CW

I have been THRILLED with this setup. It uses lots of water, but I can regulate the flow with the I.V. drip, and turn it on/off as needed. I calculate (using a diution calculator), that I am changing about 30% per day, which, with dilution, results in 100% per week.

I grew Congo tetras to full size in 6 months, and I feel water quality was a major factor. My estimate of increased water cost in Southern California is about $5 per tank per month

Hope that helps!

I.V. drip on the way out... that's pretty clever.  Feel free to take over the thread, I'm looking for ideas and experiences, exactly what you posted.  Thanks.

20 hours ago, Dean’s Fishroom said:

I've never had to deal with chloramines myself but have talked with many fishroom folks that have. The simple carbon blocks that most of us use simply put don't allow enough contact time to break that chloramine bond and at the same time absorb it. To do it properly unfortunately is quite an investment as I believe you will need something like this:
 https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/carbon-non-electric-manual-backwash-series/carbon-whole-house-backwash-filter-cws-manual-30-cf-14x65.html?network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=7861880847&adgroup=pla-390033617905&keyword=&_vsrefdom=wordstream&keyword_session_id=vt~adwords|kt~|mt~|ta~394510319935&gclid=CjwKCAjwr7X4BRA4EiwAUXjbt8_YWfFQ1tVii5r-IiU2-CVN-9kMaJGpX6YP_EPdl2zTn7b1_cvf5xoCQcsQAvD_BwE

I have used one of these before and they last a long time but it is a huge investment. Your water basically comes out super clean and pH neutral. Plus I believe the contact time will break the chloramine bond and absorb it.

 

 

A friend of mine had recomended one of these to me.  The cost was a little shocking, but it looked like a pretty nice unit.  He also emphasized the importance of dwell time.  I started at 40 gpd and went to 20.  Even at 40 the chlorine was gone but the ammonia/ammonium byproduct (if thats is what you would call it) seemed excessive.  At 20, I still had about 1ppm. I really should get dedicated nH3 and nH4 test kits to see what I am actually left with.  Thanks for the input everyone.

[StephenP2003]

22 hours ago, Bill Smith said:

Water leaving the tank (goes to my sink drain):

 

Hi Bill,

For some reason I'm not seeing the photos. Am I the only one? Would love to see the setup.

[Bill Smith]

10 hours ago, StephenP2003 said:

Hi Bill,

For some reason I'm not seeing the photos. Am I the only one? Would love to see the setup.

Hi Stephen, I fixed my original post up top; I wasn't posting properly. Copy-paste is no bueno!

[StevesFishTanks]

I use a 20x4.5 big blue kdf85/catalytic carbon then 2 of the 10" that bill uses. After those I have been using 2 or 3 of the 10" refillable cartridges filled with aquarium zeolite. I need better test kits and time to figure out how long they last and what they really can do but seems to be working so far. My flow is capped at 0.5gpm. I don't do a continuous drip. I have solenoids on the quarter inch water lines that are opened with a controller for set times at my flow rate.

[StevesFishTanks]

Just noticed this thread is months old must have hit something on my phone to go back in time while browsing threads. 🙃

[kkarsten]

That's a pretty nice set up you got there (months later... hahaha).  I messed around with a few different options and am now kind of flushing the system every week or so.  Basically pumping 140 gallons of aged/treated water into the display and overflowing roughly the same amount.  I've been getting good results, although I know some new water is going down the drain.  The pets are happy though 

Edited March 16, 2021 by kkarsten