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Found 8 results

  1. I noticed that the new Aquarium Co-op strips test for chlorine, my question is, does that include chloramines as well? Im assuming that they don't.
  2. I just did my first water change. The water looked a little cloudy so I change about 50 %. I add everything I needed to like I should after a water change as well as testing the water for ammonia etc. I let my Tetras get acclimated to the temp before I placed them in the tank. After placement, they are now at the surface sucking for air? What should I do?
  3. I recently moved into an area that uses chloramine in the water. At my last house, chlorine was used and it wasn't a problem for the drip system. Sediment filter followed by a couple carbon blocks and all was good. Now I am struggling. I set up the 3 stage filter I was previously using and it certainly did remove the chlorine, but in doing so, I am left with around 1ppm ammonia... or ammonium. The API test kit doesn't tell me the difference. I should probably get specific test kits. Either way, I'm sure my biological filter could break that down, but i think it kinda defeats the purpose of the water change (feeding the filter ammonia/ammonium to produce more nitrites/nitrates when my goal is to remove the nitrates). So for now, I'm treating with Prime before pumping it into the sump. Any thoughts or ideas? I'm really missing my old easy drip. Picture of sump included for giggles... and suggestions. There is a 75 gallon vat in the left of the picture that I'm using to treat the water now.
  4. So since the TexasSnowmageddon, my city is dosing ammonia it seems. I'm regularly getting 1ppm from the tap. I've set up a 32gal can with aerators and some Fluval Ammonia Remover to see if that could possibly drop the ppm prior to water changes. Has any one else tried this method? Will the ammonia burn off just from aeration? I could always not deal with this and use Prime during the waterchange to nullify the ammonia as my 72g planted tank can eat off 1ppm NH3/4 in about 24hrs. Anyone got any ideas to prep water and remove ammonia?
  5. As I have done more research on the chemistry of water, I just now have come to understand that what makes Chloramines so much more difficult to deal with than Chlorine by itself is that Chloramines is chlorine bonded with ammonia. So when you treat water with Chloramines, you are essentially just breaking the bond of the Chlorine/Ammonia and then the chlorine can be handled by the chemicals (prime) and it leaves the ammonia to be handled by your biological filtration in your tank. Is this correct? When I change water in my tanks I notice that is very hard to get the nitrates in the water to lower. Based on my understanding of the above, that is due to the chloramine my city water is treated with. Essentially, this means even though I am putting in new water, because the new water contains ammonia (after I treat with Prime), the new water gets cycled by my biological filter when added and spits back out immediately as Nitrate. Am I tracking this correctly? Ok so my real question - How do I get water to my tank without any effect of the Chloramine? Is the only way to get an RODI system that filters out everything into pure water? Does running my water through a chloramine pre-filter do anything or does it have to be a full RODI system to fully remove both parts of the chemical compound? Really appreciate any help the nerm crew can provide!
  6. My Southern California water is hard, high-pH, and contains high quantities of chloramines. I have 13 tanks at last count. That's a lot of buckets to dechlorinate on water change day! About a year ago, I took the plunge and researched what it would take to pre-filter my tap water so that I could refill tanks directly, I'm really glad I did, because in the long run, it has saved me more hours than I can count! Thankfully, it's a lot easier than it might seem. Below I will walk through the steps the average household can take to set it up, to show how easy and effective it really is! Plan on a $100 total expense. (All links are non-affiliate) (I have ripped off illustrative pics from the internet. He had it coming.) (Apologies to our overseas friends; this is how I did it in the U.S.) I'm assuming you know how to connect push-fit quick-connectors: Push, then pull, then insert a blue clip. PARTS: 1. 2 x Clear filter housings for 10" x 2.5" filters: 1/4" ports ($28) (clear is useful to see how dirty the sediment filter is) 2. Sediment Filter Cartridge: 1 micron ($7) (you could get 5 micron, but at this cost, why?) 3. Chloramine Carbon Block Cartridge: 1 micron ($20) (this cartridge is overkill if you're only treating for chlorine) 4. RO Canister Wrench ($7) (must-have for opening/tightening canisters) 5. Threaded fittings for RO canister housings: 1/4" ($7) (this is a basic selection; you can get more fancy here: elbow, direct connection, etc.) 6. Water supply RO adapter ($11) (basic is generally fine) 7. 25'-50' of 1/4" RO hose ($9) (how much do you need to reach your tanks?) 8. Assorted RO hose fittings ($12) (buy them all; you'll use more than you think!) 9. Vaseline or silicone grease 10. Teflon tape. STEP 1: Tap into the Cold Water Supply Pick a room with running water. I used my kitchen sink because of its proximity to big tanks, but bathroom or laundry hookups will do. Right where the cold water supply feeds the faucet, you can easily install the adapter valve. To install, simply: 1. Place a towel under the cold water shut-off valve. 2. Turn off the cold water valve. 3. Disconnect the hose to the faucet. 4. Install the adapter (use teflon tape for the threads!). 5. Close the new adapter's valve. 6. Reattach the faucet hose. 7. Turn the water valve back on! Here's a not-very-helpful picture of my installation. I have a RO-drinking water unit, so I had a similar adapter already installed: I do not worry about water temperature when refilling my tanks. I can't prove it, but I've heard that a quick blast of cold water simulates a rainfall and can stimulate breeding and other behaviors. Otherwise I will lose gallons of water trying to get the mix just right every time. Maybe if I had a fish room, but for 13 tanks, cold water alone is just fine. I change 50% in every tank every weekend. STEP 2: Load the Canisters Each of the filter canisters has a black o-ring in its housing. You'll want to gently pry it out, coat it with some vaseline or silicone grease, and push it back in. You can then load the filter cartridges in each one and screw the housings into the lids. Use the wrench to tighten them. STEP 3: Connect the Filter Canister Tops An RO threaded fitting needs to be screwed in both ports on each of the two canisters. You must use teflon tape or you'll have leaks! Once closed up, you can use some RO tubing to connect them to your home water supply adapter. Take note of the "IN" and "OUT" markings on the lids. Run a short length of tubing from the new adapter on your plumbing to the "IN" port of the canister with the sediment filter. Then, run a very short tube from the "OUT" of that same canister to the "IN" of the canister with the carbon block. The remainder of your tubing can be attached to the "OUT" port of that second canister, and will hopefully reach your tanks. Be sure and put a ball valve (you bought several) on the end of the tubing to your tanks, so that you'll be able to turn it on and off at that point! STEP 4: Check for Leaks I had to do this several times until I had used enough teflon tape or vaseline grease on the o-rings. It's worth paying attention at this stage to save yourself grief later! I closed the valve on the very end of my tubing, and opened up all the others. I keep it in this state indefinitely. STEP 5: Flush out the Carbon Powder I ran my unit for about an hour into the sink, until the water came out with the lowest TDS and clarity. STEP 6: TEST! I have a chlorine test kit that measures total and free chlorine; this allows me to infer chloramine quantities when I compare with an ammonia test. None of this is necessary, in my opinion, except maybe for peace of mind. I found that water coming out of this unit tests at zero for chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia. I suppose maybe the ammonia could read as much as 0.25 ppm, but it's my opinion that it's not enough to hurt fish, and any bio filter will snap that up right away. STEP 7: USE IT! I keep all the valves open at all times, except for the one on the very end of the hose that goes in the tanks to refill. The water coming out of this unit is not high pressure; it runs about 1 gallon per minute for me. I prefer that. Now, I just uncoil my hose to any part of the house I need, and coil it back up under the cabinet when I'm done! Clean water from the tap! STEP 8: ADDITIONAL TIPS 1. You can drink it too. 🙂 Unless you're already drinking RO water, it's MUCH better filtered than that stuff that comes out of your fridge icemaker or Brita filter. 2. The hose is so small I can put a tiny hole in my wall and get it to a tank for a permanent installation: Think auto-water changing! 3. You can add stages to improve the filtering capabilities. For example: A 5 micron sediment filter before the 1 micron will increase the lifespan of the latter. I haven't needed this; at seven bucks I plan to change it once a year whether it needs it or not. If you just want to take care of chlorine and not chloramines, you can go for a less restrictive carbon filter, which will boost your water pressure. For more neutral water and low-pH applications, you can add an RO membrane or DI resin. And so on. 4. For filling my rack, I went nuts: Hope this has been helpful. Thanks for reading! Bill
  7. I use Tetra test strips most of the time in my fish room. They read zero chlorine on my tap water. I know this is wrong so, I use Tetra total chlorine to test my 3 stage filter water to make sure they do not need changed for auto water changes. My tap is between 2 and three ppm total chlorine. We have chloramine not chlorine. I think this would be worth mentioning when talking about testing water.
  8. I'd like to setup an automatic water change system. I know my water has chloramin and I'm assuming chlorine as well. What filters are people using for their water in order to get rid of these chemicals? Is it best to just add a whole home system or should I add a set of filters in-line for my auto water changes?
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