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About Me

  1. I could literally write some sort of an essay on how much I have had to mess with my HoBs to get them to function and "fix design issues". I have always enjoyed this aspect of the hobby and I'd love to ask everyone about their setups. For reference below, I'll toss in a few pretty epic videos when it comes to filter setups. Please feel free to post and share your filter setups here! I'll have to grab some paper and sketch out a few mods I've done!
  2. I have been trying to use HOB filters for 125–but would like to try a sump. Since the tank is already in use I don’t want to drill it. I have an extra 10 gallon and a 29 gallon tank to use. Would either size work? Also, I wonder if any of you could suggest a favorite design for intake and output tubes. There are YTube videos—but what have any of you used and would suggest? Thank you in advance for any suggestions!😊
  3. I'm copying my text from the original post on another forum since I'm not allowed to post the link. The original post was from 5/30/20. Enjoy! I'm going to take a crack at building my own sump for my 125 mostly South American 125 gallon aquarium. I have been using the one in the photo for 3 years now and it's okay but it was originally designed for saltwater and I'm hoping I can do better. The planned dimensions are 48" x 15" x 15", approximately 46 gallons. I'm building it out of 1/4" polycarbonate and sealing it with the Weldon 16. I am basing it on the attached photo I found online. I'm looking for constructive criticism and help only. It's planned for the water from the tank to pour into the socks on the left, flow into 2 or 3 Cer-Media bio filter blocks, then spill over and down thru the vertical section but with 3 levels instead of 2. Cotton batting at the top, volcanic rock, and/or bio-balls. I was thinking of adding another vertical section of 3 levels with more filtration and purigen as the top level. Next it will flow over into the heater section and finally the return pump on the far right. One of my thoughts is, if I add another vertical section that would flow up then to the heaters, should the water flow under the divider to the pump or still go over spill into the pump section? **I removed the logos from the sump diagram as it's just used as a reference. ** Skip to 7/20/20 for the next installment. Well, it took 6 weeks for me to get the correct polycarbonate. I had to reorder since I ordered the incorrect width. Anyway, it took about 13 hours from start to finish. We started with three sheets for 32" x 48" x 1/4" clear polycarbonate. We cut it with a table saw and hand sanded all the edges with multiple grits of fine sandpaper. I'm going to give it 24 hours to set up then it will sit with water in it for a week to check for leaks. I'll also be putting a pump in it to see how it will flow. From 7/21/20 - I let the Weldon 4 and 16 cure for 24 hours then added water. I've got a few leaks but nothing too bad. I dried it out and will seal it again after the joints have a chance to dry out. Then on 7/27/20 - After fixing the leaks, I let it sit in my garage for the entire week with an 800 gph pump circulating water for a week. Friday night I finally installed it. The entire process took about 4 hours. I also replaced all the tubing. Here is a photo of it up and running. I am currently using two 200 micron socks but I think they're too fine. They clog up quickly and restrict water flow. I may switch to 300 micron and see how that does.
  4. Dean and Cory produced a couple of youtube videos detailing how Dean raises fry. They showed and discussed the fry containers but not the tank in which the containers were suspended. Is there a video I missed that focuses on the tank?
  5. I understand tempered glass can't be drilled. But, I'm curious if there's a work around, to have a sump for tank like this? I'm setting up a 90g tempered glass tank. But, I'd like to have more water volume, and a place to hide my heaters, and thermometer.
  6. I'm planning to add a sump to my 78 gallon heavily planted tank. I'm working on mapping out the plumbing as well as pumps I will need. Anyone that has done this, do you have any advice? Anything that would have been nice to know before you started setting up your sump?
  7. I got a 90 gallon with a sump I want to add a wave maker for a few different reasons. by doing a quick google search I read a few different topics sayin it shouldn't or cant be done. I'm lookin for more input on this, any help would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I just got a 90 gallon with a sump I looked up and found you're suppose fill the tank just as it starts to over flow then fill the sump up to the top and turn on the pump. well my problem is either it almost over flows the tank or it starves the pump for water. what am I doing wrong? I can get it on the fill line on the sump with out disaster???
  9. Can I put fish in a sump if it's only new? The tank that the sump is hooked up to has been running for 10 years. Im hooking up the sump to keep fry and extra plants.
  10. I have always had the general idea that, given the fact that the water is cascading over a compartment of bio balls, my sump filter is aerating my water and I probably don't need an air stone. Do you folks think that's accurate?
  11. I see people talk about clogged overflows, or losing the siphon on external overflow boxes. They explain that the return from the pump would then cause the main tank to overflow. I don't understand this. Is there some advantage to positioning the pump inlet so this could happen?
  12. I want to build a fresh water sump for my 40b (is this weird?) but what size tank should I use for it or
  13. Hi. I’m looking for help designing my system. I haven’t kept fish in 3 years and I’m trying to learn from my past mistakes. I want it to be very easy to maintain. I want it to be robust and very peaceful. I have a 25g rimless landen tank. I’m planning to plant it and add a school of rummy nose tetra or celestial pearl danios. I’m considering a 10g sump. I like the idea of decluttering the display tank. I like the amount of filtration, oxygenation, and opportunity to add an overflow set up. I had to add aeration to my last tank and the bubbles/pump were loud and messy. A major concern is to not need aeration. If I did have to add it I could add it to sump and close it up so I couldn’t hear it. I know a sump is likely overkill but that reason alone is not a very weighty con for me. I learned a lot from the video about how to vacuum your tank on the channel. I was doing just about everything wrong. I swore I’d plan on a system that didn’t involve carrying full buckets of water (clean or dirty) around the house. I plan on using the methods demonstrated in the video with the Python Water Changer so no buckets. I’d be refilling with tap water and then treating it in the tank. Plants will be new for me. The tank will be established without fish. I haven’t made it to researching CO2 but I think there’s a chance it won’t be needed on a 25g. Thoughts on that would be very helpful. I feel like I know the direction I want to go but I’m at a point that I could use some help cementing some ideas to build on. Searching online the options are just endless! Thanks for reading!
  14. I am moving my discus into a 4’x2’ 120 gallon from their 150 to give me more room in the living room. I want to set the tank up with a sump, mostly to add water volume. I just want to make sure my plan is solid before I start spending money. 75 gallon sump. The 120 isn’t drilled and I don’t know if it’s tempered or not so I’m planning on doing a eshopps HOB over flow. I was planning on the PF-1000 which does 1000 GPH (I’ve read it’s better to have more GPH on the overflow than the return) I will do a spray bar on the return and I want to shoot for 5x water turnover (based on what I’ve read on discus forums) I was thinking of getting the Sicce Syncra, I’m unsure if I should go with the 3.5 (660 GPH) or the 4.0 (951 GPH) It’s going to be pushing water up roughly 5-6 feet and I know the pumps don’t flow as well when they have to push the water up high. If I’m reading their chart correctly the 4.0 will have 660 GPH at 5 feet. I attached a picture of the page with the chart regarding the flow and height I mostly need help with deciding which pump to go with. And if I’m over looking anything or misinterpreting anything, please let me know. Any and all advice is appreciated!
  15. I recently moved into an area that uses chloramine in the water. At my last house, chlorine was used and it wasn't a problem for the drip system. Sediment filter followed by a couple carbon blocks and all was good. Now I am struggling. I set up the 3 stage filter I was previously using and it certainly did remove the chlorine, but in doing so, I am left with around 1ppm ammonia... or ammonium. The API test kit doesn't tell me the difference. I should probably get specific test kits. Either way, I'm sure my biological filter could break that down, but i think it kinda defeats the purpose of the water change (feeding the filter ammonia/ammonium to produce more nitrites/nitrates when my goal is to remove the nitrates). So for now, I'm treating with Prime before pumping it into the sump. Any thoughts or ideas? I'm really missing my old easy drip. Picture of sump included for giggles... and suggestions. There is a 75 gallon vat in the left of the picture that I'm using to treat the water now.
  16. Hi team, In have a 4ft tank running a straight 25mm pipe into the sump. Problem is its gurgling day and night. My wife is on the verge of putting her foot down over this tank. Any suggestions??
  17. hello fishkeepers. I made a new sump set up , on paper that is.And I dont know of it is a good idea or not for a sump. The sump is 48 inch long and can hold 52 gallons of water.I am just trying to make the sump more efficient than the the 3 stepss I have now. What is your thought on it will it work? Greetings Dutchfishguy
  18. Hey all! I am a marine biologist located in the Seattle area. Interestingly enough, I worked briefly with Cory way back when, when he first started up aquarium co-op to advertise his business stealthily at an undisclosed national petstore chain while I was in college. I do not currently own an aquarium, but intend to hover the forum and help biology and chemistry related questions. I am a huge fan of biotope aquariums and I use to establish tanks and sumps and sell them. I am going to try to breed dragonfly/damselfly larvae as feeders for large fish. I will post tech articles on this when I get some trial and error under my belt In college I had a 55 gallon long tank with an eclectic mix of rejects that I adopted from said undisclosed national petstore chain customers. It housed a 6" gold siamese algae eater, 5" gold bristlenose pleco (m), 5 gold gouramis, a 4" convict cichlid, and an unidentified 2" sunfish. That tank was bursting with personality. The algae eater and pleco hated eachother and stayed in opposite caves on each side of the tank. The pleco would hoard hikari algae wafers in his cave and the algae eater would have to bravely try to steal them over to his cave. The convict cichlid was an absolute puppy who just wanted to be friends with everyone. He was actually the only surviving fry of about 10 that I grabbed to feed the sunfish. So he started life in my tank as a 2mm babe and within a year hit 4". When I graduated college I gave away these fish to a wonderful family who were putting them into a 250 gallon community tank.
  19. Is there a way to Connect a sump to the tank without having to drill for bulkheads. Right now I have 155 gallon bowfront front tank set up with a full full canister filter. Been up and running for a year but looking to change out the filter to a sump four maintenance and easier changing the filter media( poly fill and Cabon).
  20. I have a lifegard 24 gallon aquarium that has a built in sump (it occupies the last 2 inches of my aquarium). I’m curious if I can put my air stone in there? Or do I need the air stone in the main part of the tank? I’m already hiding my heater in there so it got me wondering. Thank you.
  21. After a scary 4 hour power outage and subsequent fear of a cycle crash...(which didn’t happen, thank god!) I decided that an overhead sump would allow me to: 1: Grow pothos out of the aquarium without the goldfish tearing at the roots. 2: Cool the 125 tank off for the fish as it retains heat too much.(76 deg) 3: Have biological filtration that won’t die due to lack of oxygen like my canisters would. (Sponge filter got EATEN by Leo my Son’s giant oranda... he’s pretty but sooo dumb) 4: It’ll look so pretty for my kids and I can explain how the plants clean the water for their fish. I used a plastic planter box and some wood. Used a return spout hooked to a pump to get the water into the sump and a 1 inch bulkhead for the overflow. All I need now is some red lava rock to fill it and I can “plant” the pothos! I am also planning on hanging a light above it to supercharge the nitrate uptake. The rack is just 2x4s and some welded wire fence. P.S. Don’t hate on me for the saltwater stickers! Only ones I could find and my kids don’t know the difference. 🤣 UPDATE! See how big the pothos got!
  22. Planning my first “biggie” a 75 gallon planted tank. I would like to add a sump filter system. My plan is to have the sump in the basement laundry room one floor directly below the aquarium. That way i can hide the life support hardware, and worry less about dripping water on the hardwood floor. My question for the group: what would be the best PVC pipe diameter for my application? TIA
  23. This is where I have it. Is it supposed to be in big compartment at the end?
  24. I have a tempered 90g Marineland tank that I'm brainstorming for at the moment. It's eventually going to be a Discus tank. Tempered glass...aka you can't drill. With that said, I've contemplated doing a sump for it. My reasoning is that I REALLY want to hide heaters, and a thermometer. I found this hang on back overflow. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/deluxe-cs90-with-lid-and-aqua-lifter.html My only worry is the bulkhead in the overflow leaking at some point. OR, there's this DIY pvc overflow method. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/this-guy-want-a-beaslbob-trap.36891/ Yes, I know: the safe route is to just hide the heaters with plants. But, I'd like to avoid having to hide them, if I can accomplish this safely. If this were you, would you do it (either overflow method)? Regardless of your answer, please explain.
  25. Hello, Background: I am starting a freshwater aquarium and decided on using a 40 gallon breeder tank. I had a hard time searching for the right aquarium stand and eventually decided to purchase the Aquatic Fundamentals 50/65 gallon stand, which has the same dimensions of that fits the 40 gallon breeder perfectly, and am just waiting for it to be delivered. However, I did more research after ordering the stand, and realized that I was really drawn to the idea of using a sump as well. I was thinking it would be good to use a 20 gallon tank for the sump, but then realized that the tank would not fit through the door of the stand. The stand is 38 inches across, but the door is only 12 inches in the middle, with the boards on either side of the door immovable. There is some space in the back, but it's not big enough to fit in the aquarium either. So I'm left with 2 options: 1. Build the stand with the 20 gallon tank already inside, so I don't need to worry about fitting it in. I am contemplating this option but the 12 in opening would probably make it difficult to work with the sump inside, thought this is just theoretical as I don't have an experience with working with a sump yet and don't know how hard it would be with a narrow opening. 2. Get a different stand before I set up the aquarium. I don't have tools to do any DIY projects, so I'm hoping that there is a stand out there that works with a sump without me making it myself. I have not had much luck looking online, perhaps I'm not looking at the right place? I'd love to hear any suggestions/recommendations or if anyone has any experiences similar to my own, and how you were able to resolve the issue? Thanks!
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