Mmiller2001

Forgot to mention, fertilizers have no negative effect on fish. @xXInkedPhoenixX Here's their activity. They are a bit distracted but close. I tap and they are ready for food.

As far as parameters go, yes, the incoming water matches outgoing water. However, this removes excess organics in the water. The truth is, excess organics trigger algae. You also can't test for them. They contribute to micro bursts in ammonia and feed algae. These "micro burst" as I like to call them won't show up on your tests. Also from my reading, they don't necessarily participate in nitrification, but can still be utilized by algae. Apparently, these "organics" come in many forms. some react and some don't. My Harlequins are quite active and love swimming into my python ever chance they get. These buggers like to assault my hand when I'm in the tank. They are bold for sure.

I would recommend canisters. This way you can add spray bars, surface skimmers and better CO2 reactors. I run an Eheim Pro4 600 and an Eheim Classic 2215 (modified with a stronger pump). If I could do it over, I would have gone with a single Eheim 2080 or 2180 This offers about 10x turn over per hour. Here's the tank, unfortunately I have too many species in this picture. I'm in the process of a massive reduction and scape.

Absolute truth!

If I am able to get it healthy and if the tank will let me increase light intensity, it will turn pink. Here's some healthier Wallichii, it can get better than this too. Harlequins are hearty for sure and do well from my experience with them. To give you some background on how I'm doing things and to put perspective on parameters; I will throw some numbers out. This tank sits at 145 TDS, That's 5dGH and 0dKH, I front load my water coming into the tank to (is pre fertilized) 12ppm NO3, 5ppm PO4 and 30ppm K. I dose Micro's every three days into the tank directly. When I mix the water the final TDS is 136. I then heat that water to 77 degrees, and the tank sits between 75.8 and 76.5 degrees. I've found as the water flows through the hose it cools about one degree. As you can see, the TDS is nearly identical and the temperature is matched. Outside of moving things around, this tank is pretty consistent where it matters. This is also how I can do near 90% water changes twice a week with no worries. I did some reading yesterday and I'm making a switch on how I will fertilize. I'm sure you've heard of the EI method and ADA method. The 2Hr aquarist, Mr. Wong, has a line of fertilizer know as APT. He falls into the middle of the 2 methods above, not too rich and not too lean. So I have made a solution similar to his recommendations and I will dose Macros 4xweek and Micros 3xweek. I mixed a solution that will dose 2.5ppm NO3, 1.25ppm PO4, .25ppm Mg and 2.41ppm K. 2.5x4(doses)=10ppm NO3 1.25x4(doses)=5ppm PO4 .25x4(doses)=1ppm Mg 2.41x4(doses)=9.64+KNO3+K2HPO4=18ppm K (accounting for the K in KNO3 and K2HPO4) I'm removing the DTPA Fe from my micro dosing and will just use the CSM+B and keeping the dose to .4ppm Fe (proxy). My water sits at 4.75pH under CO2 load. The EDTA will fully dissolve in these conditions. Hopefully, running leaner and letting the soil do the work will help me get through this algae phase. I also just want to see what happens!

Photo update: Wallichii improving, Hygrophila is actually doing something now, though deformed and the Cyperus Helferi has popped new growth. I was worried it didn't make the trip. Today I will twirl some algae spaghetti, move the lily right a bit and trim the street. @gjcarew Contrast okay here?

Thank you.

Thank you for this!

You will need to add minerals for sure. SaltyShrimp makes a GH/KH combo. Expensive but easy to use.

I'm worried I won't be able to get this algae resolved and loose the wall to it. But you are right, I do have more time than what I see in my head.

I installed the moss wall and I'm probably going to regret doing it now. I'm still having GDA problems and now I'm getting a filamentous outbreak. I've dropped my light intensity again and I'm pushing the CO2 a bit further. So maybe this will help some? I also saw some BBA today too. I'm not sure I will keep the Wallichii, however, it is coming in nicer than last week. The problem is, to push the pink colors, I will have to pump my light and I'm not sure that's a direction I should go with this tank. I might have to reassess the Spatulata also, but I just love this plant and I really want it in the scape. I'm thinking I moved a few plants too many times causing my lily to stop growing completely. Luckily, I have a bulb starting to push some growth out in my wife's tank. I have all 14 of my Harlequins in the tank now and I have 6 Oto's in QT. They seem to be doing well and are going to be the total of my stocking for the competition. Some plant swap options will be Didiplis Diandra for the Wallichii, Barclaya for the dwarf lily (probably too big and similar near the curtain) and no idea what I would use in place of the Spatulata. Overall, I'm getting more nervous about making this tank happen in the time I have. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being satisfied, I'm about a 5 with this tank. Too many unknowns with this aquasoil. And nothing but problems so far. I'm way out of my comfort zone here. Again, ignore the plant just left of the street, its going back into the 75 next week.

UNS Ultra Clear 75P

Just get them into the tank.

I've heard nothing but good things about it.

I'm not sure if they are jumpers.

I would just try and see.

The wood in your tank will have little to no effect on your water pH. Over a long period of time it may, but if you are consistent with your water changes, it will have no impact. However, your substrate choice is affecting your pH and is the sole reason it's a 6. Amazonia has a high CEC value and is pulling the carbonates out of the water. This is how the substrate "buffers" your water down to a 6 (along with other processes but the effect is the same). If you were to add carbonates to the water, you would have a temporary increase in pH, but several days later, your substrate will consume those carbonates and your pH would return to 6 or so. Now after some time, the substrate will reach a point of saturation and it will no longer consume carbonates at a high rate. You will just have to check, periodically, how this process is going. I would just choose fish that do well in, come from, soft water environments. That's a huge selection to choose from! So take your time when looking. You will have a nice ammonia spike shortly, that's just the nature of aquasoils. Keep up those water changes until it stabilizes. Focus on keeping those plants healthy. Don't worry about your pH, get your light and nutrients right! Plants love low KH and pH. The term pH crash is from yesteryear when people didn't have the same understanding we have today. FYI, my 75 gallon is at a 5.0pH and my 40 is at a 4.85pH and I run 0KH in both tanks.

I would say get more plants . At a minimum, 70% planted is the least you want to have. You are almost there! Why? Because that will give you the least problems as the tank matures. You should be dosing fertilizers, but what is your substrate? And I would dose lightly and ramp up as they start responding. Depending on how strong the light is, you may want to limit the intensity. At a minimum, limit duration to no more than 8 hours. If you see algae (you will get some regardless) either lower intensity or reduce duration in hour increments but no less than 6 hours. IMO, 6 hours is too few. I would rather go 8 hours with less intensity. The Baby Tears is going to be tough, that's more of a CO2 plant. Give the Pearl Weed time and it will do well eventually. If you want to grow plants a bit better than a stock light can do, and want to have a lush planted tank, I would look into upgrading the light. That said, you get what you pay for when it comes to lighting. Just don't get fooled by fancy apps. Message me if you want my opinion on lighting. I 100% encourage you to plunge into CO2, there is no better upgrade for a planted tank. Nothing compares and it's not difficult. It just takes some reading and desire to put a bit more effort and understanding into it. Here is a great resource on beginner CO2 CO2 101. Also, a good CO2 system probably costs 1/4 to 1/2 of what your cell phone cost! Your single best defense against algae is water changes. You want to keep organics as low as possible while you begin cycling and maturing your tank. I would also lightly gravel vacuum your substrate with each water change. I started a competition tank and man did I have a huge GDA outbreak, I mean it was snowing Green Dust Algae. I started 90% water changes 3 times a week and now I believe I have won this battle quicker than I should have. Water changes, water changes, water changes! Make sure your source water is ammonia free. I would test it for all 3 so you know your baseline parameters for your water source. On a side note, if that substrate is an aquasoil, you must do water changes to control the ammonia spike that's coming. Okay, I'm too long winded now. Your tank looks really good, you are off to a great start! Keep at it. Dosing wise, if using an Aquasoil, I would dose 7-12ppm NO3, 1-4ppmPO4, 10-25ppmK and .2Fe(proxy) with 50% water changes on day 7 of each week and (personally) I would do a 50% change mid week too.

I'm tempted. Oto's make me nervous and are hard to feed, for me!

Can SAE's do okay in pH in the high 4's and low 5's?

I'd like to first state that plants do not need root tabs. It's a misconception that gets passed along through the internet. It's 100% not true. If you choose to use them, they come with risks and should be used very sparingly. I can't tell you for sure the tabs caused your spike, but these tabs are not benign. I've also read, here, that others have had "spikes" when using tabs. I also think people view their substrate as a closed system. It is not, water flows through and pulls nutrients into the water column and the rate is difficult to control. It also works in the reverse direction, nutrients flow from the water column down into the substrate. Adding multiple tabs can release quite a bit of unknown level of nutrients into the tank. I would keep on your water changes and test often to make sure nothing gets too high.

Hygrophila Polysperma

You will have new healthy algae free growth. You will top, toss the lower portions and then replant the healthy tops. If it's a rosetta type plants, simple cut off the algae laden leaves and remove them.

Yagote Lily Pipe Glass Outflow Surface Skimmer Set 13mm 17mm for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WX7WGVX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DGNRCWGPSEN6MP79DT9G?psc=1

What kind of filter do you have?