Flumpweesel

I saw a lab once that was teaching cuttlefish to show shapes on their bodies to ask for things. I'd love to have talking cuttlefish. And I've always wanted to keep a seahorse but I'll save salt water to my retirement

Looks great the back ground is a nice effect. You'll regret jumping the cycle big tanks make fish in cycling very very tiring so stay strong. (I know because I've done it😔) And that snail looks cool

try the vinegar neat maybe if you can remove it while you do cover it in vinegar soaked tissues and leave it soak in for a while.

I kept Corydoras paleatus (peppered) with my goldfish but I did use a heater to ensure the water didn't drop below 21C (I believe thats 69F) they were happy and bred in there.

I don't see why not but I've never kept big numbers so just speculating. Pond shops often have them mixed and they generally all together there. I think they are smart enough to get over colour differences

I would probably just add course sponge replacing the carbon and any empty baskets cheap and effective. Give the bacteria a good chance to regroup before hitting the second half, this is probably a delicate system.

I did😝

I thought I'd share my latest gadget, I know I'm not the only person using a pepper grinder to adjust the size of dried food but this one can be used one handed so you can either measure the amount into your free hand or hold the tank lid out of the way. It is by the company Chef'n just in case anyone wants to try and find their own

I got loads of great advice from @JettsPapa when I was setting up for shrimp this is well worth a read before you buy the expensive little critters Hello, Shrimp are a lot of fun, and I would like to encourage you to give them a try, and I certainly understand your reluctance to jump in with both feet. The main drawback I see with your plan is the fact that while the shrimp will probably survive and establish a self-sustaining colony in your 60 gallon tank (provided there are enough hiding places for them), you probably won't see them very often. I have some of my cull shrimp in my 65 gallon community tank and I go weeks without seeing one, though I do see them more often now since the angelfish died. Below is some stuff I've written and added to over the last several months to help out new shrimp keepers. Some of the information is from personal experience and some is from other trusted sources. I hope it assists you with your efforts. Neocaridina shrimp (Neocaridina davidi; red cherry shrimp and the other available colors) are one of the easiest ornamental shrimp to keep, with a wider range of suitable water parameters than caridinas. Their parameters do overlap, but it's a narrow range, and not something I'd recommend for inexperienced shrimp keepers. I don't have any experience with caridinas (at least not yet), so I won't address them here. 6.8 to 8.0 pH is usually the recommended range for neos, with Gh from 6-12 and Kh at least 4. There are supplements you can add to the water to raise the hardness if yours is low. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures, but around 72° F is generally considered best. At higher temperatures they will grow faster and breed faster, but they will also not live as long. Basically, higher temperatures accelerate their lifespan. Shrimp are sensitive to copper in the water, though the small amounts in commercial fish and shrimp food won't hurt them. Sponge filters are usually recommended for shrimp tanks. If you choose to use a hang-on-back instead be sure to cover the intake, or shrimp will wind up inside the filter. If you’re curious about how many to start with, the answer is as many as you can afford, but if money is a factor (which it often is for most of us), you can get a nice colony going with 10 or so. Of course, it will take longer than if you start with 25, but you’ll still probably get to 100 sooner than you expect. There are many color varieties, and they will readily breed with each other. The results will generally be brown or clear after a few generations (though you may get some interesting shrimp in the process). For this reason, if you want to maintain a specific color it's best not to mix them. Even if you do stick with a single color you'll need to remove undesirable colors occasionally. The amount of culling you'll need to do will likely vary depending on the purity of the shrimp you start with. From my personal experience my red shrimp need a fair bit of culling, while the blues ones need very little. Many people do keep and enjoy mixed colors, and there's certainly nothing wrong with that. If you do cull, you can have a separate dedicated tank for them, or add them to tanks with fish. Even in tanks with dedicated shrimp hunters you'd be surprised how many will survive, especially given adequate hiding places. I occasionally see one in my 65 gallon tank, and my big angelfish just loves shrimp. To get the most enjoyment from shrimp, keep them in shrimp only tanks, or just shrimp and snails. You don't have to worry about predation, and they'll also be more visible if there aren't predators in the tank with them, even if the predators are too small to be a threat to adult shrimp. Even if they are the only things in the tank, they will feel more secure with hiding places, especially when molting or when a female is releasing babies. Dense plants are a good option. Java moss, guppy grass, Süßwassertang, and pearl weed are some good choices. I like to have two kinds of dense plants; one at the bottom of the tank and another floating to provide hiding places in both locations. A pile of rocks, sized so that the shrimp can crawl inside, is also a good idea. They are sensitive to changing water parameters, so most experienced shrimp keepers recommend limiting water changes to around 15%, and the new water should be close to the same temperature. If you do larger water changes, it’s even more important to temperature match the water. Since they need biofilm to graze on, and are very intolerant of ammonia and nitrites, it's usually recommended to let a tank run for at least 3 months before adding shrimp, and 4 months is better. You might get by with adding them sooner by adding a sponge filter, plants, substrate, etc. from an established tank, but you still aren't likely to have as much success as you will if you're patient and let the tank "season" (I know this from first-hand experience, and not just once; I'm apparently a slow learner). In addition to the biofilm, they will also benefit from being fed. There are several commercial foods especially for shrimp, but I've also given mine several kinds of fish food, and they've eaten all of them. While there are mixed opinions about it, many people believe they also benefit from blanched vegetables once or twice a week. I've tried several things, and mine seem to prefer zucchini and spinach, followed by sweet peppers. I usually feed those late in the evening and remove any uneaten portion the next morning. By the way, shrimp just LOOOVE freshly crushed snails. Mine will swarm all over one. If you use CO2 in shrimp tanks keep it around 10 – 15 ppm, and definitely below 20 ppm. They often can’t tolerate the pH swings and/or elevated CO2 levels at higher concentrations. Of course, if you want to establish a colony you need males and females. Females are usually larger, and have better color, so when selecting them in a store you can get all females if you aren’t careful. It’s not difficult to tell them apart, even on shrimp that are the same age. The abdomen (the rear half) of females is larger than males, with the bottom line sagging down. Males’ abdomen is thinner, and it’s pretty much a straight taper from front to back. As females reach maturity they will develop a “saddle” on their back. This saddle (usually yellow) is the unfertilized eggs showing through their shell. They're ready to breed when they next molt, after which the fertilized eggs will move down below their abdomen where she will constantly “fan” them and juggle them around with their swimmerets to keep them aerated. Unlike some shrimp, neos don't have a larval stage, so they’ll hatch as very small fully developed shrimp after about 4 weeks. If you suddenly notice the shrimp swimming around the tank more than usual, it’s probably nothing to worry about. When a saddled female molts she releases pheromones signaling she’s ready to have her eggs fertilized, which gets the males swimming around trying to find her. If you notice a shrimp with a lighter colored lateral line on top that's called a "racing stripe", and is a harmless feature that's common with some color varieties. It will typically get wider, with the edges more ragged, as the shrimp gets older. It's very common on yellow shrimp, somewhat common on red ones, and I don't think I've ever seen it on blue ones. Don't worry about your tank becoming overstocked. They have a very small bioload, and a 10 gallon tank can hold hundreds of shrimp without becoming overcrowded. https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/17903-am-i-shrimp-safe/?do=findComment&comment=156080

I rarely fertilise my tanks I have no problem with Java fern, anubias or swords. Given the high bio load of breeding guppies if you start steady you should be fine. Never messed with floating plants though. As you are on a budget start with only one Java fern it will take awhile but once it establishes it will start firing off new plants for you and you'll have more than enough. Anubias is the same but takes a little longer. Cheap stem plants can be great and propagate easily and lucky bambo can be picked up pretty cheap as well .

The Otto jumped plant when I moved. There is a tell tail of one if study the pic. My pygmies think the Otto's are pygmies and will school with them. And that SAE has been following them around for a day or two now and was sat on top of an Otto throughout yesterday's water change. It's not an aquarium it a glass box of identity issues

Some fish just don't know how big they are.

I cried for days nearly scraped the tank after Mr Pib & Trevor died (goldfish owned for decades), my spouse made me wait as I still had some surviving corys. It really hurts to lose a pet I haven't named a fish since

Today is going to be a messy (canister filter pipe cleaning I always prep for that to end badly) tank day so I'll have all the towels from the ready to wash pile thrown for use day to day tank stuff I just grab a tea towel.

They should all be happy on dried as a main food with occasional live/frozen foods. Brine shrimp probably suit all the tiny mouths best but my Harlequins are pretty amusing when they are swimming round with frozen bloodworm cigars

This is the first thing I bought for my goldfish (from the pet shop in the town market) approx 30yrs ago. It moved with Mr Pib to every single aquarium it had. If we took it out Pib would sulk until it was placed back in even thought after 20+ years he was unable to swim through it. So I doubt I'll ever throw it away now

I wouldn't recommend getting one with the hope of future upgrade wait until that big tank is in your possession. Life is a surprising thing so assuming something for in years time is a massive risk. Especially as rental homes and apartments still limit the size of tank in many cases. Take your time, what fish are you keeping now?

Congratulations

Tried another new store after not getting what I wanted from yesterday's and I have gained 1 lotus bulb One giant Anubis A huge Amazon sword 2 peppered corys 8 cherry shrimp (red) Nice little shop fish breeding in lots of the store tanks about 30 min drive from mine but just round the corner from my mums so extra points adding a family visit to the mix. Photo below of the store nano tank

I've been through this and it is about changing the smallest amount of water to keep the numbers in the safe zone (less than 1ppm) while the bacteria catches back up. You should be ok to leave it around 0.25 just test regularly and if it climbs switch out a bit maybe 1 bucket or less Don't overthink the prime ammonium thing it just throws more confusion in my opinion it might be showing on an ammonia test but not while we are looking at nitrates. No one is sure about the detox thing (lots of threads debating) but it's what I use and in the short term it does bind some so will be helping you with this.

This will help you understand the cycle don't worry you and the pets will soon be through this. https://youtu.be/PWoiCqCvJco

Ok any ammonia is bad so I would do a big water change on the one on the right now then, monitor it closely to keep it below 1. Looks like that tank hasn't cycled yet so with the Betta in there you need to keep the water comfy for the fish bit with enough ammonia in there to get the cycle going. This can be a tricky balancing act. Nitrite isn't good either so I'd change 25% on that and again keep a close eye for it raising. It looks like that tank is further along on its cycle By close eye test the water daily. This intense spell is normally only for a few weeks and if you add some plants they will absorb both these to help you.

Yup that's a lot for fish and Ghost is beautiful .

So I tried a different LFS today it is only a 15 mins walk from home. I'd not been before as it it's a marine shop and only recently added freshwater to their stock. I got some dry and frozen fish food.

Everyone enjoys a trip to Ikea don't they (except at weekend afternoon then it's something from Dante)