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drewzero1

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Everything posted by drewzero1

  1. drewzero1
    Send 'em here and I'll make 'em disappear 😁 To tie it in with fishkeeping, I ate a whole gallon of pickles to get the jar for my latest scape: Unfortunately the kind of pickles you get in a gallon jar tend not to be the highest quality, and they were pretty mushy. But it's like the old saying goes, 'we all have to eat a gallon of pickles before we die'... or something like that.
  2. drewzero1
    Added the driftwood from my work tank into my jar. Gee, it sure looks bigger in a 1 gallon than a 10! I think it will help hide the filter and heater a bit more. The shrimp seem to really enjoy it as well.
  3. drewzero1
    Tore down my desktop tank at work and brought everything home. I'm cutting office hours soon and won't have time to take care of it, plus I'll hopefully be able to enjoy my fish at home more. The fish and snails seem to be integrating well back in the 40B. Still need to clean out the old tank though. My coworkers will be disappointed, but they don't know my pickle jar plans. 🤫
  4. drewzero1
    Are you sure? That doesn't add up to me. Been a few years since I took a drafting class but I'm pretty sure the values you list would be 0.5" +/- 0.004" instead. For 3d printing it's usually easier to deal in millimeters, since that's what a lot of modeling and slicing tools default to.
  5. drewzero1
    I think for a prototype the print-and-glue method you describe in the video should be sufficient to see if the system works. I've been mulling over possible ways to construct the rest of the box. One idea that came to mind would be to bend some plexiglass to form the walls and bottom, and make the sealing lip component with a groove to fit the plexiglass. Plexi can be bent using either a heat gun (tricky) or a hot wire bender (much more precise). The school I attended had a hot wire bender in the shop class workspace, so it might be worth checking if your school does before building your own.
  6. drewzero1
    Sounds like you've got a pretty solid plan for a prototype! I think I like where that latch design is going. For mass production I'd probably recommend looking into molding the container and lip as one piece, but I'll defer to anyone with production experience on that one. (Most of my projects are one-offs.) For the block off plate on the end, my suggestion would be to have a short end with the intake, another short end with the outflow, and as many middle pieces as you want to make the custom length. I'm excited to see your project taking shape!
  7. drewzero1
    Did a test fit of v2 while starting to print v3 and realized my measurements were a little off, so I updated the model and restarted the print. Works great so far! Model is available here: https://printables.com/model/330171-sponge-filter-adapter-for-hob-breeder-box
  8. drewzero1
    I believe it's set to 1mm for these prints, but since it's a parametric model it can be changed to whatever is needed.
  9. drewzero1
    Still no chance to try it but here's my v1 (straight) and v2 (offset) adapters. I'm not sure if the offset is enough to clear the sponge, and I'm not super happy with the joints on the angled piece. Ideally the joints would be beveled for better flow and a cleaner seam. I'd like to make the taper more gradual as well.
  10. drewzero1
    Sorry, I was out of town for the weekend. I printed it before I left but haven't had a chance to try it... I realized I had to add an offset to the model because the sponge filter would need more space to avoid hitting the glass. I'll post it/send it when I get back to my computer.
  11. drewzero1
    Google's free CAD program is called SketchUp. I've used it to model rooms for estimating party supplies, but it's been a while. Never tried it for smaller objects though.
  12. drewzero1
    I use OpenSCAD, but I don't recommend it unless you really like programming and math. It's a parametric CAD program, meaning it uses parameters (easily-changed variables) for the dimensions. Basically you write a program to add and subtract shapes to get the design you want. Great for something like an adapter where someone else might want to use it on different sized sponge filter or uplift tubes, but really cumbersome when you start getting into more complicated models. (The text entered on the left is rendered into the shape on the right.) It doesn't look like the forum will let me upload the model files. When I get a chance to test it out I'll post it somewhere else and link here.
  13. drewzero1
    For the kit with input and output, note my first napkin sketch where the end sections are very short and the middle sections are longer. The short ends with the uplift tubes and the outlet chute would be that basic kit, and the longer middle sections could be added on up to the length of the tank. So here's a picture of my lunch container to illustrate the seal. There's a C-shaped channel along the edge of the lid that holds a squishy strip of silicone (the green thing), this would be the 'gasket & outer lip' in my ddrawings. I've pulled the gasket partially out of its slot to show the way they fit together. When the lid is placed on top, latches (the flaps on the sides) press the gasket tight around the rim of the container. (Or at least they would if the molded hinges weren't so stiff. Certainly a more secure latch/hinge design would be needed to keep water off of the floor.) I modeled an adapter to connect my sponge filter to my HOB breeder box as discussed upthread. I'll have towait to try printing it until tomorrow as my 3d printer is squirting out d&d minis all night. 😆
  14. drewzero1
    Yes, the vertical part of the highlighted section could be the channel that it slides into, and the smaller horizontal rectangle was meant as the latch. The circled part is the hook that hangs it over the edge of the tank.
  15. drewzero1
    This will certainly require more study, actual prototypes, and refinement, but this is my initial thought. I would use silicone rather than rubber for the gasket, as it doesn't seem to harden and crack as easily, though rubber would probably suffice for a prototype. I'm envisioning the catch and hinge molded into either side of the joint, and the latch as a separate piece of plastic. Here's an alternate shape that aligns the gasket surface with the force of the latches:
  16. drewzero1
    Box shaped is probably better for filter media, arranging plants, etc... I just didn't bother to draw it that way. I need to measure my sponge filter and breeder box uplift tubes so I can model an adapter and see how that works. I'll share the files if I ever get around to it. 🤞
  17. drewzero1
    I have a couple of ideas, mostly based on interlocking drain systems: https://www.drainageconnect.com/nds-5-pro-series-additional-resources Pretty much this, but with a gasket to mitigate leakage, and some latches to keep the sections from coming apart. Here's my quick napkin sketch of what I'm imagining:
  18. drewzero1
    My kid dropped a chunk of banana in the tank this past summer, and since the mollies seemed to like it I left it in for a few hours. Seemed fine for them but one of my cories died that night. After a medium water change the rest of the inhabitants were okay, didn't seem to cause any lasting issues. Lesson learned-- we now wait until he's done eating to feed the fish. I'd keep an eye out for any odd bacterial growths. (I think that'd be the fuzz.) I could see the bacteria in yogurt really liking the warm, wet conditions of an aquarium, plus any added sugar that might have been left behind.
  19. drewzero1
    Here's my big mama molly getting ready for another drop:
  20. drewzero1
    Right before she drops fry you may see her belly really starting to get square-shaped with the corners under her chin and around her vent. Freaked me out the first few times I saw it, but it seems to mean she'll have fry within a day or two... looked like she swallowed an ice cube!
  21. drewzero1
    I picked up two more cherry shrimp for my gallon jar bringing the total up to three. The plants I added have been melting back a bit but the snails seem to be enjoying the snack. I've had a hard time finding examples of jar aquariums with equipment in them, everything seems to be "no filter, no heater!" Well, mine has a sponge filter and a heater, so there! (I'm only using the jar lid as a coaster for tools/accessories... I don't want the rust getting in the water.)
  22. drewzero1
    Yes, I'm imagining something like this, only instead of a seal around the lid it would be a seal between two segments: And possibly some kind of latch to keep the segments locked together when in use. Pretty much just like turning a Sterilite container inside-out and sideways.
  23. drewzero1
    I've been thinking maybe I should get a few more. I worry about adding aggression, since my current pearl in her former home reportedly bullied another pearl nearly to death, but you're not the only person I've heard recommend against keeping pearls alone.
  24. drewzero1
    The modular length is a neat idea, but will definitely take some development to make sure it can stay watertight. Maybe an interlocking interface with a silicone gasket, like some food storage containers use on the lid. It may be helpful/necessary to incorporate a locking mechanism to ensure the sections don't come apart when full of water. For air uplift tubes the principle is simple: bubbles on the bottom make water go up through the tube. Here's the video that helped me understand how it works. Airlift construction starts at 12:06, but the whole thing is worth a watch. (If you're drilling pipe, best to use a vise instead of a cardboard box like Dean does. "Don't drill your fingers.") Here's another, really technical video that goes more in depth about how and why air uplift tubes work. Normally I can't stand text to speech narration, but the diagrams are really good.
  25. drewzero1
    I have had pothos growing in a Marina air powered flow-through HOB breeder box for about a year and recently stuck some of my pond plants in there to winter over as well. I could see something longer being useful for similar purposes, say the length of a 20 long or so. Depending on how much flow you need, an air-powered uplift tube might be enough... it's certainly simpler to build than something with an electric pump. If I could change one thing about the breeder box setup it would be to widen the end of the uplift tube, to make it possible to use an air stone (smaller quieter bubbles!) and/or a sponge filter (for bonus mechanical prefiltration, especially when using the box for raising fry.) Interested to hear more ideas!
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