Pacers94
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Posts posted by Pacers94
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On 5/17/2022 at 10:07 AM, Tihshho said:
What south american's did you have in mind? Going with the smaller and dwarf variety will allow you to stock other things in the tank. If you're talking larger (Red Devils, Green Terrors, Texas Cichlids, etc) then you're not talking about a lot of space for more than one adult fish, even if that. As for Africans, I'll let someone else chime in as them that has more experience.
I've liked the electric blue acaras and have kept a couple, but those are the only ones i have had experience with
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Hello everyone. I am redoing my 55 gallon tank to be a cichlid tank. I am still not sure on if i want to do a south american community tank, a peacock tank, if i want to just get like 1 severum. Not sure. I'm also not that knowledgeable in terms of different types and what goes with what and how many you can have of each. It will not be a planted tank, just thinking of sand and rocks to keep it simple.
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I haven't seen this before, pictures my wife sent me before I get home today. I have 4 other cichlids, all fine from looking. This one has been hiding, color faded, and now just today this growth. Anyone know what's going on? Parasites?
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Hey everyone! Just wanted to provide an update. From what i can see all the algae has gone! anything left has died and is being eaten by my siamese algae eaters. just need to do some light trimming of plants but it's back to normal!
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On 9/30/2021 at 1:51 AM, Torrey said:
There's a thread with a lot of discussions surrounding siestas and noticing a reduction in algae as intensity of light, plus length of siesta ( @Streetwise has a post on 'one siesta or two' but I am still too technologically challenged to figure out how to link / share posts) are dialed in for the tank.
I use the siesta period, in combination with applying H202 directly to algae with all water movement turned off for 15 minutes.
So far, that's been the easiest method for me.
Thanks for the feedback. What happens with the algae once it dies off with spot treatments, will i need to physically take it out or will it dissolve?
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Hi everyone. I've been really struggling with a staghorn outbreak in my 55 gallon. I've read many forums on here and other websites for advice, i just want to ask again and see what worked best for others. I bought 4 siamese algae eaters for my tank yesterday, as i can't have shrimp due to my other fish in the tank. I don't run CO2 but plan on getting a setup pretty soon. Other options i see that have worked best are a tank blackout and spot treating with liquid carbon. Any advice would be great. And to skip any questions, yes it is staghorn algae, PH 7.2, Ammonia and nitrite 0ppm, nitrates 40ppm, lights on about 8 hours but at 85% intensity
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On 9/15/2021 at 7:45 PM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:
You have the dreaded black beard algae - arrrggghhhh!
There aren’t a lot of critters that eat it as @Keegstated. Siamese algae eaters do eat it but they’re pigs for fish food and get big. I’ve had to starve them in order to get them to eat bba- I’m only partly kidding. I bought 3 large pieces of Malaysian driftwood that were covered in bba and it took 3 of them the better part of a year along with chemicals to clear it off.
Chemicals - you can use h2o2 in a syringe 💉 and spot dose these areas - @Irene did a nice video on this on the coop or her girl talks fish channel . H202 also can be used as a dip - pulls plants, dip for 2 minutes in 1:3 h2o2 to water. Then you’ve got algaecide like glutaraldehyde can help but in the end you have to make some decisions about how you’re dosing and lighting the tank as well to help keep this from recurring. It also works as a spot treatment.
This is why hi-tech enthusiasts love co2 - it drives plant growth and prevents algae from taking hold. No balancing needed helps start with it out. Hi-tech plants that have been bred to require those conditions will never thrive without it. The pics you’ve provided show swords and crypts which don’t need co2 (although some may disagree).
As @Cory has said many a time change one thing at a time - you can back off the ferts and light or my preference which is increase the ferts and throw in some guppy grass, hornwort or floaters to soak up the excess and then consider upping the light after a couple weeks if that doesn’t turn things around.
Have fun don’t let this get you down it’s happened to all of us.So will balancing eventually kill it on its own? And what's the best way to start? I reduced the light from 8 to 6 hours today so I don't want to change too much like you mentioned
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Thanks for the advice! Best way to remove the algae?
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Hey everyone! I tried to read up on this issue before I posted. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this, im still learning about different algae. From what I understand, this fuzz is caused by excess nutrients and/or lacking CO2 levels. I've seen people advise going easy on ferts and introducing CO2 to the tank to raise levels and have the plants out compete the algae. Any help to get rid of this.
Also, what critters can I get to help this? Currently in the tank are 3 acara cichlids, 2 dwarf gourami, 8 corydoras, I rubberlip pleco. I bought some otocinclus but they didn't really touch the stuff.
Tank has fluval stratum, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate about 40ppm. Ph 7.2
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If there is a die back period, what can I do to ensure they don't full on die?
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@Fish Folk yes its about 5 weeks old. 55 gallon, 20" tall, 12" deep, 4' wide
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@Fish Folk I have very hard water. Temp is about 75 degrees. The photos were taken today, plants have been in there maybe 3 weeks
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Hi everyone, hope your weekend started of well! I've received a bunch of helpful feedback on others questions I've posted, and I hoped I could get some help with my plants. I can't seem to get that nice, green, lush look from my plants. Attached are some pictures of what I'm seeing. I do have root tabs in, several for each of the bigger plants. I am using the Fluval stratum so there's a little bit of nutrients there. I use Easy Green and have been messing around getting the right ratio. I also copied an intricate light schedule I saw from someone else on the forum. Any advice is appreciated!
Ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates ~ 40ppm, ph 7.2
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@Odd Duck thanks man. So it was the UV that got it done? And it stayed away once it went away?
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How well do you think this will work on a 55 gallon? i've been struggling trying to find the right schedule, might adjust to these when i get home and see. @StaceyTNBCkicker
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Hey everyone, just wanted to provide an update and maybe see if @Cory might chime in?! So water parameters are great, ammonia and nitrites at 0, nitrates about 40ppm. the pictures below are the time lapse of how this has gone. The first picture was on 06/27 before any fish (and i did put them in a little premature so that slowed cycling), the cloudiest picture was about a week later and at it's worst. the last picture was as of this morning. I bought a UV sterilizer this past friday 07/23 and have been running it 12 hours at a time. I haven't done anything crazy, only a few 10% water changes every 3-4 days. My question is I clearly want the water clarity in picture 1, will the sterilizer get me there? do i just need to be patient and let it ride out, monitoring water parameters? Any advice is much appreciated.
P.S. - the camera adds a little orange to the pictures, so they're not as bad as they appear
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Thanks! Yea just haven't seen it grow like that before
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Hey everyone. Just wondering if this is good or bad algae, I've never seen this before. I've mainly dealt with hair algae. I brushed the tank last week and it's slowly grown back. Not too worried about it unless it's really bad.
Ps going to be getting a rubberlip pleco tomorrow, so hopefully he'll take care of it
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Hey everyone, just wanted to update. The ammonia dropped to 0 around friday night, meanwhile nitrites started to climb. as of last night the nitrites are going down slowly, hopefully nearing the end of this cycle. i did a 10% water change on thursday and last night. The water has cleared up a bit, but still has that tint to the water. When researching the fluval substrate, i've read that it could color the water until it matures and most of the nutrients have come out of the substrate. But fish seem happy and healthy, they've never stopped eating. Added some adult amazon sword plants over the weekend. I'll upload a picture when i get home tonight
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I'll upload pictures after work. How soon should i put her in a breeder box?
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I think a green plant background would look good. I like to match the color scheme. I have a tank with a similar substrate to yours and plants and i put a nice green planted background. Then i have a blue gravel substrate with some rocks, so i put kind of a blue sky background on it
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Hey everyone! I've never had a fish give birth on my before, and i'm almost positive my female molly is pregnant. Like i said i've never dealt with fish babies, so if she does give birth what do i need to do? i don't have a spare tank, and she's currently in a 29 gallon with 2 other male mollies, about 15 tetras of mixed kinds, 1 angelfish, and 2 corydoras. Any advice would help!
Also, what can i do to help ensure she does give birth? water is about 77 degrees, ph 7, nitrates 20 ppm
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@Duke Silver The picture was as of about 8pm last night. readings were ph 7.2, ammonia 1ppm, nitrites 0.5, nitrates 10-15 ppm. Camera adds a little bit of an orange tinit so it's less than what the picture shows
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@Duke Silver I'll take a picture when i get off work. I have it on 5 hours a day at white 100% with the blue light at 0%
55 gallon remodel - need recommendations!
in General Discussion
Posted
I just couldn't sustain the plants and find a happy place where they thrived. Also with work just too busy to maintain. I just wanted to go bare bones on the tank with sand and rocks then whatever cichlids, african or SA, fit that profile and the right amount.