ARMYVET
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Posts posted by ARMYVET
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On 9/27/2021 at 5:07 PM, Odd Duck said:
I’m sorry for your loss, that’s always hard and had happened to all of us at some time or another.
Please indulge me while I me recap to make sure I’m clear on the time line (I think I’m off someplace).
8/25 - water parameters are at first list, received fish, started med trio which was finished after one week. QT = 20 gallon bare bottom with sponge filter, plants, and hides.
9/1-9/8 - water parameters in QT tank stabilized at the second list of parameters.
9/22 (beginning of week 4) - lost the first fish sometime during this week (starting with the one that was weak from the start)?
9/25 - quarantine over, moved remaining fish to the 75 gallon and lost 2 more fish during week 5, is that correct?
Please correct any timing that I have wrong. Trying to wrap my head around this to see how/if I/we can help.
How often were you testing?
Breathing hard and swimming like they’re drunk/neuro sounds most like ammonia toxicosis to me. But that doesn’t really make sense if the last 2 died in the main tank. Unless the timeline is off. Minor adjustments in the time line may, or may not, change what we expect to see as far as potential causes of the fish loss.
I haven’t kept rams in at least three decades so I’m no expert on them specifically. Back then, we paid much less attention to pH, GH, KH, rarely did any testing with fresh water, etc, so in many ways I’m still relearning/learning some things.
But even then, they were considered a little fiddly and known to like softer water. That may play in because more toxic ammonia is more prevalent at higher pH and it tends to be shifted toward less toxic ammonium in lower pH water. So even though they seemed to tolerate the higher pH water, there could have been some slowly accumulative damage to the gills or their nervous system?
Speculating here since this still seems unlikely to me, but I can’t quite completely rule it out. A good filter can convert ammonia very quickly (24 hours or less) but maybe there were some sudden spikes that weren’t picked up by testing but still caused damage. We know fish almost guaranteed have some damage in shipping. Ammonia absolutely builds up in the bag no matter how carefully they are shipped.
I would dare to say that every single fish that gets shipped has some ammonia damage to the gills and likely some systemic damage. If we prevent further damage, then they can heal and survive. If they get even small amounts of further damage, it can tip them over the edge and their body can no longer compensate.
In patients with a very poorly functioning liver, they can get ammonia levels that gradually build up to the point where eating a meal high in protein can give them temporary neuro symptoms until the ammonia in their blood clears up until the next meal.
Also severely respiratory compromised patients are by far the most difficult to treat. Even cardiac patients are easier as long as their lungs aren’t completely filled with fluid. Once the lungs are past the tipping point, it is incredibly difficult to recover them.
Fish respiratory systems (gills) are incredibly efficient at collecting oxygen. They have to be since the oxygen concentration in water is soooooo much lower than it is in air (typically less than 0.001% vs 21% in air). Typical aquariums run 6-9 ppm oxygen at full saturation. Air is about 210,000 ppm.
Fish have THE most efficient respiratory system of all animals extracting about 80% of the oxygen that flows across their gills. It has to do with the direction of water flow over the gills plus the direction of blood flow through the gills. Plus their blood picks up and releases oxygen to the tissues better than ours.
Us puny mammals collect only about 25% of the oxygen that gets into their lungs (plus we have more feeble hemoglobin - we’re soooo inefficient at breathing compared to many other species). That’s why mouth to mouth resuscitation can work for mammals (don’t try it for your fish). If we extracted more oxygen at each breath, we would be smothering the patient with our CO2 when we tried to breath for them.
Sorry, got to diving down a rabbit hole reminding myself on the numbers on dissolved oxygen in aquariums and double checking the conversions from % to ppm.
All that being said and back to the subject, the swimming weird and neuro symptoms sound like actual ammonia toxicosis vs only gill burns which will usually leave them gasping at the surface. But maybe we have a combination of things happening that left your weaker fish right at the borderline of compromised, then the slightest little transient bump in ammonia caused symptoms and death?
Whew, somebody stop me! I need to work on aquariums today, not just dive down an aquarium rabbit hole! AGAIN! 😆
SO .... Im not sure exactly what you mean...can you explain that again...🤣
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On 9/27/2021 at 8:20 AM, Brandon p said:
I cant trust the strips . I get to many question able results.
What strips are you using
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On 9/27/2021 at 10:24 AM, Fish Folk said:
The most important lesson of all is not “don’t be afraid of the dark,” but rather, “Don’t be afraid of the Light.”
What if I am scared of the dark but others are scared of me in the light?🤷♂️
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To ensure not to skew any results after rinsing tubes in tap water I rinse in the tank water Im currently testing so no possible way to skew.
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I can tell you my baby Corys love BBS and the adults will climb the walls for it as well.
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On 9/27/2021 at 5:12 AM, Guppysnail said:
Congratulations on your new family member. Veggies my snails have eaten in order of preference I wash in hot water then steam you can also blanch microwave or use no salt added canned but the canned are messier and foul water more.
green beans, baby carrots, broccoli stalk do not use the floret it’s makes a huge mess, any color bell pepper, sweet potato, kale, cucumber, zucchini, romaine lettuce, Brussels spouts very lightly steamed or they are messy. Each of my 14 have their own unique preferences.
mystery snails are social. It is fine for them alone but they will be much more active with a friend. Here is Caramel from that thread a few days ago he loves to visit if I leave the lid open little rascal. Omega one veggie round wafers are his favorite my brats of course each prefer different commercial foods but eat most. I also add api or Kent’s liquid calcium to the repashy I make. Wondershells are great too.
Holy Moses...thats one huge snail!
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You took some amazing pictures…great job!😁
Where the food? 😬
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On 9/27/2021 at 5:16 AM, Guppysnail said:
Says the voyeur who knows how great the night vision is on his camera 🤣
Oh I openly admit it….bring on the fishy porn.🤣🤣🤣
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On 9/26/2021 at 5:45 PM, Beccs410 said:
What camera did you go with and where did you get it? I've been wanting to add one for my 14 gallon! I have a fancy pleco who only likes to come out at night...so...I am not ashamed to ask this...does that live camera also have night vision? 😂🤪 Nooooo, I don't have a fishy obsession at allllllll....Seriously, though...what camera?
You want to look at your fish while it is night time….your a fish peeping Tom 😂🤣😂
Yes the camera I use films in 2k and has the best night vision possible …you would swear the lights we’re on.
it’s made by Kasa
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On 9/26/2021 at 8:32 AM, Arty Mars said:
ONLY $15 A POUND! If you can fill up a shipping container let me know and we'll be in business haha
You get the Australian govt to let me move there and live and we can be partners in the duckweed growing business!
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I’m a mechanic by trade but thru my years I have done many jobs…electrical , plumbing, const, small eng repair …even roofing. I have always said there is nothing I can’t fix.
When it comes to tech….I was programming computers before it was a thing…lol
So now I’m a techno junkie that can fix anything. Bring it on lol
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Once she got it connected to her wifi the rest is easy peazy
Once you know what the different settings do it’s a piece of cake
@Hobbit if you need help I will be there for you!
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What temp do you want to maintain as your tank temp?
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On 9/25/2021 at 6:17 PM, Kimberly P said:
I saw the fenbendazole solutions as well. I also found a DIY trap that I've set up to see if that works.
I have such a problem getting the cherry shrimp to breed. Water parameters are all good, but I've never seen a baby shrimp. I just got this new order of 20 & hoping for some babies!
Wishing you the very best
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On 9/25/2021 at 3:31 PM, Sandra the fish rookie said:
I have now resorted to having a beer
I dont drink alcohol (NO judging) but this is where I would be expressoing it like no tomorrow ...LOL
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SO right now from that pic....it is telling me that your current temp in the tank is 77.8 ...your set temp is 75.5. SO right now the work light is off telling you that no power would be supplied to the heaters because you current temp is higher then your set temp.
If you were to make the SV lets say 79...then the work light would come on letting you know that power is being supplied to the heaters.
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On 9/25/2021 at 2:51 PM, Torrey said:
Maybe I need more coffee first🤔
I always need more coffee😵
On 9/25/2021 at 2:51 PM, Streetwise said:Okay, try to get into your Wi-Fi settings via that link.
@Sandra the fish rookie what your looking for is your wifi name and password. You need to enter those into the inkbird app so it can connect to your wifi.
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now the controller will power them on when the temp is below the temp you set in the controller
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Tank each heater and plug into wall that way they get power and set them first....once they are set to 5 deg above your target temp unplug them and plug them to the controller
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t1 and t2 are your temp probs current temp reading. This is telling me that one probe is reading 85 deg and the other is 84 deg
AH is the hight temp alarm...you set this number to 5 deg above your desired tank temp
AL is the low temp alarm...you set this number to alert you to when the temp drops to a certain temp I would go 5 deg below your desired set temp.
Set the continious heating temp time to 3 or 4 hours .
Do not touch the calibration settings
looking at your router I looked it up and it does indeed have 2.4ghz capability
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I would set he continuous time to 3 hours. This way if it shows it heating longer than that you can check to make sure the heaters are working.
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First of all you manually set the temps on the heaters to 5 deg above your intended temps. This way the heater itself will always be on. You want the controller to turn power on and off to the heaters not the heaters doing it.. That would defeat the purpose of controller.
So if you want to keep your tank at say 78.....set the heaters to 83-84
can you take a pic of the readout so I can see what its doing?
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COntinuous heating time is a setting where if the tank does not come up to temp before that time it will send you a notification.
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On 9/25/2021 at 1:23 PM, Sandra the fish rookie said:
@ARMYVET I have it all set up, and the SV is giving me a "P"
I have read the instructions back and fourth and it says nothing about what a P means? I also for some reason can't get it set up to my WiFi and I have no idea if its a 2.4Gh2?? How would I know that?
and it appears that it has over ridden my heaters, so I can't manually set them... so I have NO idea if they are heating or not.
I am going to look up the instructions then PM you and we will get this working pronto
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Master Test Kit with Multiple Tanks
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by ARMYVET
Sooo @Torrey....... Shake with the left hand.....shake with the Right hand.....Up...Down...Upp...DOwn.....Big Circles....Oh sorry was having a flashback to Mr. Miyagi and Danielsan!