ChefConfit
-
Posts
451 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by ChefConfit
-
-
You don't make a mess when moving decor or netting out fish. You don't have to gravel vac or worry about uneaten food getting lost in the substrate so maintenance is faster/easier. Also yes even cheap gravel adds up when you have that many tanks to fill.
-
Any chance we can get some? Either as a forum member exclusive (not that a free to join forum is exclusive) or in the coop shop.ive got a couple design ideas, but just a t-shirt that says nerm across the chest would be cool to start. Maybe the coop logo and/or the forum logo on the sleeves or across the back
-
1
-
-
@Cory I think you and the team at the coop are doing an amazing job with the forum, and it has helped my hobby more than I could have ever thought. And I can't thank you enough for all you do. The rules have been clarified multiple times now in multiple posts(including one of my own where I asked for clarification), so if people are still confused after being pointed to those posts this may not be the right forum for them. As you've said there are plenty out there.
@braids and anyone else who is confused by the rules. Heres ways I'd deal with needing to direct people to a specific product when it is relevant to a post.
1 just say the name of the product and let people google it if they don't already know what it is.
2 find a product page and zoom in on the relevant info for a screenshot (so that you aren't showing what website the info comes from) and add it to the post.
3 if you absolutely feel a link to a product page is necessary for the post, find a product page on a non retail website (one where you can't actually purchase the product) such as the manufactures website and post that link.
What you can't do is post a link to that product on petcos website.
There's also some common sense to use. Links to retail sites are perfectly acceptable in the things you've bought recently that you recommend thread in the non aquarium related section of the forum.
The only grey area I can really see some confusion in is websites that are affiliated with the coop in some capacity but are technically competitors such as a brand ambassadors website.
That's just my way of laying it out as plainly as possible in my understanding of the rules.
-
1
-
-
Deffinetly need more info dude. Start with water parameters, tank specs(filtration, stocking, substrate, ect), anything different you did before you went away and how long you were away. Without that info anything we say it a wild guess.
-
2
-
-
A regulator is the price you need to release some co2 then close off the flow. It's also by far the most expensive component of a full co2 setup so if you're gonna have to get one it makes more sense to me to get one that will still work when you upgrade to a regular co2 system
-
The hatchery as everyone else is suggesting is an amazing idea! Just be sure to get any off the additional stuff needed to run it that he doesn't already have.
-
Also only doing top offs would lead to harder water overtime. Because only water evaporates not any of the stuff dissolved in it. May not be a problem for a long time if you have very soft water, but can be one quickly if you have very hard water or are keeping fish that need very specific water parameters.
-
People also make lids out of the same plastic that they use for greenhouses. I think Primetime Aquatics has a video on it.
-
2
-
-
Here's a thread discussing everyone's favorite aquarium YouTube channels. Most if not all of them will have at least a few videos meant for people just getting into the hobby.
My personal favorites are Aquarium Coop, More Aquarium Coop, Steenfott Aquatics, KGTropicals, Michael's Fishroom, Primetime Aquatics and Dustin's Fish Tanks. I watch others as well but I watch most of the videos each of those put out. I also have seen all of them except I think Dustin on this forum which is cool.
-
Did you receive it as a clipping in a bag of shrimp? I bought shrimp off reddit and got a clipping of a plant that looks the same. I was told it's cabomba, I planted it and it's growing well. (unfortunately the shrimp did not like my water and didn't last)
-
What dry foods do you feed? Every color enhancing flake I've used has resulted in red poop because of the red flakes, I'd imagine any other red food like extreme krill flakes would also have the same effect.
-
How about finding a field guide for aquatic/semi aquatic plants in your area, then plan a collecting trip.
-
1
-
-
@MattyIce you've got me intrigued! It looks like you disassembled it, cut the back pane to the same size as the bottom pane, sanded all edges then reassembled with the former front pane as the new bottom? So you have the same viewing window as a 20 long but 6in more space front to back.
-
I always assumed anything other than tail shape/color was arbitrary and just what the original breeder of that strain decided to call it. Sometimes multiple people develope similar stains without knowing about each other and you end up with different names for basically the same feature.
But marketing is probably more accurate.
-
As @cory said its probably fine.
I'd put it on foam and do a water test. Since you're probably more worried than a normal 2nd hand tank do the test for a week rather than a day or 2. If it holds water then you're probably good to go. I still wouldn't use it for really expensive display fish but as a utility tank or for less expensive fish it'll be awesome.
-
Also keep in mind that some dechlorinators and other products we use are known to screw with tests. I think prime is one of them.
-
No math needed the product was designed so that 1 pump per 10 gallons provides 20ppm nitrates. @cory has stated it several times in videos
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, Brandy said:
I actually would do this in the opposite order. Neons, then Otos, then Betta last. This way the most territiorital fish doesn't have time to set up a territory. You let most shy fish gain confidence without harassment.
My reasoning for the ottos last was because they can be fairly sensitive to changes in water parameters so they do best in a well seasoned tank. You are also correct though about adding territorial fish last though. Maybe run it for 1-2 months with just the neons then add the ottos and the betta last.
Keep in mind that you will want quite a but of algae buildup before adding the ottos as they tend to come in already under fed and can be hard to get onto algae wafers. They're also mostly wild caught so quarantine and deworming is definitely recommended even more so than usual.
-
1
-
-
1 betta and a half dozen each of neons and ottos should be fine in a 10 gal. Just add fish slowly and make sure your BB can keep up. I'd add the betta first then neons maybe a month later. Then add the ottos half at a time a few weeks apart.
I had ottos in my 5 gallon for almost a year and they did fine
-
@FishyJames is right about the path of least resistance. You should get air valves for each one and adjust until they are equal. I'd start with both turned down to 75ish% max flow but you may have to turn the one that currently has more flow lower
-
2
-
-
-
I think you'll be happy with them. Are you gonna do a single strain or mutt guppies?
-
Personally I would go with 2 medium sponge filters. It will provide better water circulation than a single filter in a large tank, and @Cory has mentioned in several videos that he prefers to use multiple of the mediums over larger sponges because they begin to get unwieldy to clean when you use the larger size.
-
1
-
-
I'd say @Marnol D is right about the shading being what is going on with the sprite. Plants will get rid of leaves that aren't getting enough light rather than waste nutrients keeping them alive for no return. You could trim very short every once in awhile to combat it or top and replant Dutch style.
As for your nitrates I have a few suggestions. 1 cut back on the easy green. The recommended dose is 1 pump per 10 gallons per week which will provide 20ppm nitrates. So even at the stated volume of your tank you are slightly over the recommended dose. Now subtract the volume of your substrate, decorations and plants plus you lose volume because you don't fill the tank to the brim. Actual water volume is probably somewhere between 35 and 40 gallons. @Irenemade a video awhile back about how to dial in the proper dose for your tank that might help.
I'd also suggest doing smaller water changes more often to help keep everything more stable. Probably won't help with nitrates but it use usually best practice to keep water changes under 20 or 30 percent unless something is going wrong.
Finally be careful not to overfeed as that can cause nitrates to build up faster. You could even go one day a week without feeding to encourage scavenging so there isn't any extra food lying around in the tank. There is a post from the other day about fasting fish here
-
2
-
Substrates in Stores
in General Discussion
Posted
I'd say it really comes down to efficiency. They could do painted, slate, tile or universal rocks style bottoms and still avoid the above drawbacks of substrate. But some stores elect to set up display tanks to look nice then set up the tanks they sell fish out off to move fish in and out as efficiently as possible.
Think of a grocery store. They have a few nice displays to showcase some products but most stuff is just stacked on shelves. They could only do nice displays, but they wouldn't fit as much product in their store and the labor cost to keep everything looking nice would be way higher.
Fish stores can do the same thing. Set up a nice display tank for product they want to move, but actually sell it out of a bare tank that's less work to get the fish out of.
If I were to open a fish store (which will probably never happen) I'd consider doing painted bottoms and sides (maybe use one of those spray paints that comes out with a rock texture) then doing a planter or two painted to match. That way you can remove the only obstacle if the fish are difficult to catch.