Guupy42

I found a video, maybe it will help. I'm not sure if the method will work as shown in the video, so do some more research before trying anything. Also, maybe try reaching out to some other fishkeepers on the forum. This is what @Colu said in another recent forum post about dropsy: Epsom salt or aquarium salt 1 table spoon for 2 gallons that will help reduce fluid buildup and metroplex in food feeding a small amount twice a day for upto 3 weeks Based on this, it seems like your salt treatment might be a good idea. It's up to you, though. I recommend you look for advice from more experienced members of the forum.

When you are adding your medicine or adjusting pH, make sure not to make any extreme adjustments, such as going from a pH of 6.5 to an 8.4. Take it slowly, and add the chemicals (Or whatever else you are using) a little bit at a time.

Unfortunately, it looks like to me that Dropsy is a possibility. On the top view, one side of her stomach is enlarged, while the other side looks normal. Have you noticed any pineconing? It is a little hard to tell just from those images. The fin damage that you notice could be from aggression from your other fish, Sunny, but goldfish are not usually aggressive, I found after some research. They might, in some cases, as in this forum post, though, so look for signs of that. @Colu might be able to help with your problem. Based on the parameters you provided, it looks as if your pH might be a little bit low, as in this article, it says that goldfish should ideally be in a pH range of 7.0 - 8.4. This Aquarium Co Op Blog Post says that "Most freshwater fish are happy at pH levels between 6.5 to 8.0. ". Good luck to you and your fish in the treatment process.

Here is a treatment plan you could follow, if you can get the dosing for the aquarium salt right. It treats ich, finrot, and other diseases naturally. Good luck with your treatment, no matter what approach you try and take. https://www.aquariumnexus.com/natural-method-cure-almost-any-guppy-disease/

Don't take this seriously, but here is a edited forum post.

I happened to go to the pet store today, the employee said that aquarium salt is fine for plants, and that they are only going to go bad in complete saltwater such as a reef aquarium (after I asked about the salt tolerance of the plants they had). I recommend you search up the types of plants you have, to see how salt tolerant they are. In the meantime, if it is an emergency, put your plants in a food safe container or quarantine tank if you can remove them, and salt the tank.

If it is getting worse, then it is probably finrot. Also, the black edges are another sign that this is finrot, not just an injury. I have also had guppies that had a tail like your fishes, specifically two, and I used to use this general cure medicine called Tetra Lifeguard, but I stopped using it once I got my Nerite snail. It works well, but it is not invertabrae safe. Another way to take your problem is by using Aquarium Salt. It is safe for snails (What kind do you have?) and will also kill the worms if they are still there. Also, what are your water parameters? A lot of the more experienced fishkeepers here will ask for those, and will be able to provide better advice. You might also learn something or find out what is wrong just by testing the water.

Yes, I agree. I am even doing a school project about inbreeding in guppies, and I found an article about it. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/livebearers-are-becoming-weaker Anyway, the next time I go to the pet store, I will consider switching to Endlers, because I've heard that they are similar to be guppies, but are sometimes less inbred.

As a beginner, something pretty similar has also been happening to my tank, and I also struggle with keeping fish for a long time. It started with one guppy dying of dropsy. Then another fish gets depressed, passes away, and the cycle repeats itself, with more fish getting stressed from the loss of a tankmate. I have only really kept one guppy for over a year, but not too much longer, as he unfortunately also fell into the cycle of depression. However, remember, when you bring the fish home, they are at least living a better life than they did at the pet stores, in the overcrowded tanks, probably with ammonia too, if you have seen the numerous fish that have passed away in the feeder fish tanks at chain stores. The fish there are mostly mass bred, and come with diseases or deformities. Where do you get your fish? The last time I went to my local PetSmart, there were only three guppies, and only one that I liked. Sometimes, they just have an inbred batch of fish.

Unfortunately, my fish died overnight (He was still in his quarantine container, so it most likely didn't poison the water). Maybe there was something wrong with that batch of guppies at PetSmart, as they both had some disease, and brought out when they got stressed from shipping and their first water changes. I am going to a different pet store this time, as they have more fish, and possibly healthier ones, too. Thank you for all the help you have given me.

I don't keep Betta fish, but I have had a guppy with something similar. I later found out that it was an ulcer with a fungal infection, so look for signs of those. As for the treatment and symptoms, I found this detailed article that may help with Betta ulcers. It might or might not be that kind of injury for sure, but it is just another possible idea. https://www.bettafishfacts.org/ulcer-on-betta-fish-causes-treatments/

It depends on what your goal is when you isolate the fish. I am not sure, but people will probably quarantine their fish sometimes when they are too weak or can't get enough food, so the fish can eat or get food easier. However, for people who are looking to treat disease like I am right now in This post, it is probably better to fast the fish. There is an article explaining how to do this method for guppies. https://www.aquariumnexus.com/natural-method-cure-almost-any-guppy-disease/

Okay, thank you. I did a water change this morning, and the results I gave was the most recent water test I did. The water quality might be different now, but I still don't think I should do a water test yet. I will do one tomorrow morning, after the new water has had some time to settle. Do you want the water parameters of my main tank, or the small quarantine box that my sick fish is floating in? I will be doing small water changes in the box every day, just remove visible poop and stuff, and take out some water, so maybe testing the main tank will be better? He seems to be getting better in his quarantine container.

What I meant by the numbers (For example, 0-20) was that the colors on my testing strips were close to one color, but slightly a little off. The 0-20 means that the nitrates are somewhere in that range. I am not sure of the exact numbers, though. Right now, I have quarantined my fish in a small container, because I am going to try doing the method described here: https://www.aquariumnexus.com/natural-method-cure-almost-any-guppy-disease/

@Colu, I could not do a water test accurately, because I just finished a water change. My most recent test was on last Tuesday, and the parameters read: 0-0.5ppm Ammonia 0-20 Nitrate 0 Nitrite 75-150 Hardness 0 Chlorine 300 Alkalinity 8.4 pH As I am writing this post, the temperature is 78°. The PetSmart employee also tested my water on Wednsday, and she said that the water was good. @Whitecloud09, I do have decorations and plants in my tank, but they are mostly near the bottom so my guppies don't use them too much, that is why my sick fish is hiding behind the filter. The fin clamp has been getting worse. After doing a water change today, I added a new tablespoon of Aquarium Salt, and some Stress Coat. Could someone give me a way to help with the fin clamp and lethargy? Again, thank you for all your help.

I recently got some new guppies from PetSmart. One died of Columnaris, he had an open mouth, and the other one is currently suffering of finrot and tail clamp. It started as a bite in his tail, and after the passing of his friend, his tail started getting clamped, and he has been hanging out by the filter a lot. He still comes out to eat, and swims a little when I tap on the glass, move the filter, or do anything to stimulate him. The last time I checked, the water was okay, and the PetSmart employee said that my water looked good. Anyway, here are some tank details. It is a 5 gallon tank with 3 adult male guppies and one Black Racer Nerite. I am currently doing a treatment of aquarium salt and stress coat. The GH might be a little low, but I am working on raising it with a cuttlebone. I also just noticed the white part in the hole, is that a sign of infection, or has he started healing? Also, since he gets temporarily active with some stimulation, what are some ways to provide entertainment to my fish? Thank you in advance. Here is a picture. Sorry if it is a little blurry, but he wants to stay behind the filter.

https://guppyexpert.com/guppy-fish-types/ Will the article above help? Nice guppies. I am thinking along the lines of a Albino Delta Glass Guppy (Poecilia Reticulata), as a combination of tail shape, pattern, and color.

Here are some Ideas. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/top-7-freshwater-snails The website says that rabbit snails can eat soft plants if they are not fed enough, but requires a male and female to reproduce. However, Bladder Snails can reproduce rapidly by themselves. The website doesn't say anything about Bladder Snails eating dead plants, though, so I recommend you do some research. Another warning, they are sometimes found with live plants and are referred to as "Pest Snails". Nerite Snails can only lay eggs in Saltwater, so don't go with those if you want a large snail population, even if they are good algae eaters and easy to raise. It's up to you to find the perfect balance. https://michael-langerman.medium.com/why-i-put-snails-in-all-aquariums-847fb87d9710 This article also says that guppies will eat snail eggs, so if you decide to get bladder snails, your guppies should keep the population in control.

Day one of cuttlebone is done. The fish seemed to have (mostly) recovered from the stress of losing a tankmate, and there hasn't seemed to be too much issue in the water, but there has been algae growth. Is this caused by some water parameter, or is it about the light level in the aquarium? I have also noticed that my snail has been more active since the introduction of the cuttlebone, just a side note. Maybe it's working to supply the snail with calcium.

I added the cuttlebone into my HOB. I don't think it had any smell at all. I rinsed it out at first, and then put it in a cup of aquarium water. I made sure all of it had got a good dip in the water, and here we are now. I will post back later with updates. Was this the forum post about the unprepared cuttlebone?

Okay, thanks. I will add the cuttlebone in this afternoon and post how it goes. So I just put it in the HOB, and watch it? Edit: I was researching if cuttlebone raises pH. Turns out, it only raises GH, which is what I want, and doesn't change the KH or pH much. Again, thank you for your help.

Is that a "Yes, I should use it just in case" or a "No, but here is some future reference"? I noticed while doing a water change that one of my other guppies' tail was bareley smaller than it used to be. Nothing serious, but something to mention, because it is probably caused by soft water, too. Also, how do I use the cuttlebone without raising pH as well? Again, thank you for all the help you have given me. I greatly appreciate it.

Thank you for all the help you have given me. I got the cuttlebone, but unfortunately, it was too late to save the fish.😢 Should I still add the cuttlebone, or should I save it for another emergency like this one? If so, how should I use it? (Dosing instructions, specifications, etc.) If I do a water change, I will no longer be able to give accurate results for the water test.

The fin clamp has been getting worse. Is there some sort of emergency action I could take? I don't have any crushed coral on hand right now. I might be able to get cuttlebone from my local pet store, will that work? It will make pH higher, so can I use pH down to let it work better?

@Tony s Found this on their website: Medicinal ingredient (in each chewable tablet) 750 mg Calcium carbonate/tablet Non-medicinal ingredients (alpha): adipic acid, artificial and natural flavours, corn starch, FD&C blue #1 Al. lake, FD&C red #40 Al. lake, FD&C yellow #5 Al. lake, FD&C yellow #6 Al. lake, mineral oil, sodium hexametaphosphate, sucrose, talc.