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Tony s

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Everything posted by Tony s

  1. Female platys are kinda like guppies. You just assume they’re always pregnant. They can hold onto them for a long time. I even tried sorting them by sex into different tanks. That didn’t work. They kept having them for months with no male around. so until she feels comfortable you may not see anything.
  2. I have this issue as well. I think it’s normal for being in a new tank. But I’m hoping we both find out
  3. It’s supposed to be top rated. There are several other brands. Seachem flourish and flourish trace are good. And there are expensive ones just for aquascapers. and you may need a good root tab as well. Coop root tabs work well. Most fertilizers are designed not to raise either.
  4. @Wadikus that there is going to be your problem. I tried 6 in a 75 and they did fine. Right up until breeding. I ended up with 2 pairs. One very mild. One marble set the male was downright nasty. Even pushed rainbows onto the bottom on the other side of the tank. And the unpaired angels to the opposite corner. He and his mate had to move to a breeding tank. Angels grow very slowly after they get to that size and continue growing for several years after. So a 55 is okay for a while, but you’ll need bigger as they fully mature. You’ll know when it’s time for a larger tank. They can get huge at that stage. you may be able to stop aggression by separating sexes if you can figure them out. After a while you can tell. I know who my boys are. Angels aren’t really aggressive unless breeding. But they’re cichlids, so behavior is variable
  5. Snails will basically eat anything organic. Including eggs, algae, food waste, and dead fish. So they could definitely be a reason for less fry.
  6. Not really. The things plants need most are nitrogen (in your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates), phosphorus and potassium primarily. Then they need iron, calcium, manganese, magnesium. Even things like boron, selenium, sulfur are important for plant growth. A balanced fertilizer gives you the correct ratio for most of these ingredients. We test for more in a field crop. But you get the idea. to fight algae and grow plants you need all that. And more plants to keep your nitrates lower than 20. Excess nitrates cause excess algae
  7. Well, if they”re working together now. It may work. Every tank is different. Just keep an eye out for aggression. Even angels can be very aggressive when they pair off and start trying to lay eggs. I have a really mean male marble I had to move to a breeding tank with his mate. He kept everybody else in one corner of a 75g. But he was okay when not breeding.
  8. You probably do need to dose fertilizer. A good balanced one. With the correct ratio of micronutrients in it. You may be fine on nitrates. But could easily run out of other nutrients your need. Especially things like phosphorus and potassium.
  9. Less light for sure. But set it to be on when your schedule lets you be near your tank. Your fish doesn’t need the light. And your plants just want consistency. I have a tank set from 5-11pm. When I can be near it. the thing with fertilizer is you want a balanced one. Something like the easy green. That way they can try and out compete the algae. And you’ll want to try and keep your nitrates down to around 20. More than that is just extra algae food. unfortunately, right now, the best algae removal is going to be pure elbow grease. Vacuuming and scraping. You may need to pull the rock and the planters out and spritz with hydrogen peroxide. Or scrub down completely. The less active growth you have, the slower it will come back. Unfortunately, that is also the situation I find myself in right now. But mine’s a 75g. I just haven’t had the time to do proper maintenance on it recently.
  10. Not sure the tigers and angels are a fit. Tigers can be very nippy. But cherry barbs and others would be great. Using your system, you could look at geaphagus with your angels. And supplementing with a tetra school. or bypass the softener and go for lake Malawian mbuna or even haps. YouTuber cichlid brothers or Ben ochart have really good display tanks on both types of cichlids yeah, we’re on a well also and softener. But have too much iron in the water still. I actually have to figure out a better way to use my water. The easier things are the better job we’re going to do.
  11. African cichlids can be very aggressive. Most are very beautiful as well. But there are a whole range of South American cichlids to choose from. Lots are small. Less than 5”. Most prefer soft water. I assume if you’re by Canada and in Vermont you also have soft water. Makes an easy match. African cichlids need very hard water. if you’re wife likes the big fish. Lots of those from South America as well. Including oscars, severums. Blue acaras. Discus. I’m kind of intimidated by the discus. They need a ton of care. But unbelievable colors. I’m not endorsing this site. But imperialtropicals.com has a great list of both African and South American cichlids. You can find anything from peaceful to very aggressive. Most of the dwarf cichlids are relatively peaceful
  12. I’d be cautious about leaving a Cory in. They have pretty good sized spines in their fins, and the bodies are very hard. It could cause issues when being eaten. Depending on depth of substrate, fertilizer could work.
  13. I’m getting to the point I have them in several tanks. They don’t really moved around a ton. Don’t add a lot of bio load. They’re just kind of there. It’s not something that bothers me at all anymore. But some people have different views and must have them out. Either way is perfectly acceptable. Oh, and if you have a loach, they make good snacks.
  14. You could very easily do both. I’m assuming you have relatively soft water up there. There are a ton of dwarf cichlids you could have. All matter of apistogramma, nannacara anomala, laetacara curviceps. And lots of others. Angels are also cichlids. And Bolivian rams. Or with a big enough tank, electric blue acara are stunning. Then you could fill in with the school of your choice. Making sure they’re large enough to go with your cichlids. Just maybe let her choose the cichlids to keep her involved in the project.
  15. Same. Still not sure it’s not
  16. Turns out I’m kind of in your shoes a bit right now. I picked up a 45g on impulse. For cheap. Without figuring out what I wanted first. Turns out it’s not big enough. I’d have been better to have bought a much bigger tank. So, really, figure out what you want first
  17. It looks like columnaris. So I’m calling the expert @Colu
  18. I think there’s one step before the information from @xXInkedPhoenixX . What fish do you want to keep. What do you like. Is there something that gets a hold of you. Everything depends on that. Or do you want to be an aquatic gardener and just use fish for that. That decision is everything. If you want 30 Pygmy corys, or shell dwellers or just an immaculate tank with lots of color and a few fish. Figure that part out first. We have people here that can help with anything.
  19. If she’s in a quarantine tank. Kanaplex would work best. Or maracyn2 Kanaplex if no invertebrates or plants
  20. It’s not ideal tank size. But works. I keep my bettas in 10’s or 20’s, with other peaceful fish. Platys and rasboras usually. And almost always with snails
  21. Kinda on the small side for a betta. But if it’s what you have. It works. Better would be a 5g though. Keep an eye out for betta aggression though. Most bettas are fine with snails. Some aren’t
  22. I’d use that in a quarantine tank. It has a tendency to stain the inside of the tank. Especially the silicone 😀
  23. Yeah, that would work great also. Really, anything with tannins. Assuming they have any tolerance for tannins in the water. Some people won’t tolerate the look.
  24. Yes. Kanaplex works great for active infections. Not sure if it’s an infection yet. @Newbie-ishfish if it continues to get worse, you may need it. It could be a mild case of fin rot. Just no snails or shrimp or plants if you use it.
  25. Possibly add in tannins to help prevent infection?
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