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Cory
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Posts posted by Cory
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I'd just put the other piece of tubing on it, and then does it still make a sound once hooked up with air going into the aquarium?
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I was gonna say your best bet might be MTS, but sometimes they won't allow any loaches.
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It whistles after you connect the other side of tubing? The pump whistles or it whistles coming out of the check valve?
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Nothing stands out so far. Do you have a picture of the tank? Maybe we'll see something on the fish? When was the last time you changed water? I'm not advocating you need to, just trying to get the whole picture. 20ppm nitrates should be no problem at all.
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4 minutes ago, Streetwise said:
Thanks for sharing your schedules, Cory. It looks like the light on that 125 has a firmware update available.
Yep, I haven't updated any of my lights cause they don't add any features I actually need. I have 1 updated purely so I could see the process of the update and the pro schedule feature that I don't use either.
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I'm not sure, I'd try making the ramp down period longer. Without using a par meter, it would be hard to verify over the internet. I believe the problem is the short ramp down period and the way power is supplied to the leds vs what the human eye perceives.
Either that, or like you said it's faulty, but out of the very high quantities of these lights we've sold over the years, we've never seen this "problem" before. I would try either pro mode, or elongate the sunset mode to see if that gets the direct effect you're looking for. There is always going to be a "switch" type of effect, it's not noticeable when sunrising because the lights start from off and come on, so the initial off to on ramp up seems normal. But from on to ramping down, usually you can see the step down as less light is more noticeable than more light if that makes any sense.
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This is a setup I use on the tanks in my fish room.
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Your profile would look like this with the setup I outlined above.
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1 hour ago, Neotropico said:
Need some assistance with programing to see if it is working OK or not!
(1) I just got a 48" Fluval 3.0 6500 K 59 Watts aquarium LED light and it seems that it is "off program" ie not working properly. Sunrise is set to start 8-9 AM and Sunset @ 19:00-20:00 (or 7-8 PM). However, Sunset is starting 5 minutes before 7 PM and by 7PM it goes into Night mode (Blue Light). The other thing is that it seems to be at full Daylight by 8 :30 AM as opposed to evenly spread during that 1 hour period between 8-9 AM.
(2) Also I would like to know how to incorporate DST into the selections, or will the program synchronizes to the app or to the smart phone in which the app is running. Any suggestions are welcome! Today is NOV the first, and I have gone in and out of the app a couple of times to see if it synchronized, to no avail! . Meaning it started at 7-8 AM! instead of @ 8-9 AM. Or will I see it tomorrow the 2nd?
To me this looks like it's working correctly. You have your settings up high all the way until the last hour. This isn't how sunsets and sunrises work. It doesn't go from full strength to darkness in 1 hour typically. What does happen is it starts going down, and then when the sun comes over mountains/behind mountains it gets dark very quickly.
To get a slower ramping time that you desire, change the parameters. If you were to take your cool white and drop it down some you see how the slope is more gradual than red for instance? That's because it needs to go from high light to low light faster than lower light to low light.
The easiest way to see this is change your sunset period from say 5pm to 8pm. You'll now see it's not a sharp drop off, it's more gradual like a sunset. The sun typically has it's peak at noon, which means from noon till 8pm it should slowly be getting more dim.
I'm attaching a graphic to show what a typical day looks like in terms of brightness with sunlight. So in your 12 hour light period you have set. You might like something like 8am to 11am sunrising. Full strength from 11am to 2pm, then 2pm to 8pm sunsetting.
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I've done a lot of tanks like this in the past. I think focus on what you think he might react to. Some people have a big problem with a dead fish. So when a guppy dies of old age as 2 years old will that be a big deal? If so, maybe try tetras and such. On the flip side, would seeing babies be a big deal?
When setting up aquariums for other people, I focus on hardy fish, sometimes something like serpae tetras , albino corydoras, and something else will be wonderful, maybe not what I'd setup in my house, but white clouds are every bit as magical as neon tetras to those who haven't seen the other.
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In general most things aren't worth "eradicating" all these things exist in nature and a balance is found. I find far often out attempts to get rid of something we think is "bad" actually does far worse things. My first question to everyone in the store is, is this actually a problem? Most respond with, I don't want it to become a problem. Well until you know it would even become a problem, we shouldn't really worry about it.
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I'd start at the beginning where is the ammonia coming from? You're changing the water and it's coming back. If you're feeding them, I'd stop for at least a week. If you aren't feeding them I'd look towards something in the tank leeching ammonia out.
Also know that if you have chloramine in your water, and you do a water change, dechlorinator breaks the bond and turns it into ammonia. So these big water changes might not be helping the problem really. Time usually will solve this problem while getting the ammonia low enough to not be too toxic to the fish.
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I bought some known solution to test, test strips I'm working on. If it seems like a decent video after I see results I may film something about it. My guess is like Daniel said, hobbyist grade test kits will be only so accurate and are better for monitoring changes in the aquarium and not such much exact numbers.
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I'm more likely to spend my sunday morning put a turtle stick with extra calcium in the tank so that their shells grow even more beautiful.
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It's doable, you might find benefit in getting the plants to attach to rocks in another tank before putting them in the petro tank. I'm guessing the petros will be like tropheus and want to pull any algae off the plants which can pull them off the decoration if not well established.
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Looks like some hair algae, got any other tanks with mollies, siamese algae eaters, shrimp?
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I keep meaning to do themed tanks each year but I always end up so busy 😞
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Bacteria can stay alive if there is a food source for it.
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is this the 4 ft 33 long? If so it might be a bit short for the angelfish.
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I like Hatchefish. and Eques Pencilfish
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Livebearers, african cichlids and goldfish would thrive in that water.
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We ship everything at priority speed as well.
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The problem is you're searching by tags. You want to search all content.
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I would use an Ap 100, it has 2 outlets and would run both in our testing.
Aquatop Air Pump
WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COMAdjustable Air Control Valve 1 Year Warranty Handles Deep Aquariums Air pumps are a great addition to any aquarium. Providing circulation and oxygen to the fish is a vital function. Air pumps however do make sound by...
Mysterious Consistent Deaths
in Diseases
Posted
Well typically ich doesn't kill things suddenly. However stress usually causes ich to break out. This can be one of those things where people don't notice all the things going wrong. For the time being I would be dosing Ich X and following the instructions.