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Alternatives for Bowfront Aquarium Lighting??


Tarazzl
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Good day!

I am thinking of changing the light bar that came with the TopFin Bowfront Aquarium. The white LED is too bright and white to my liking.

As the pictures shown below, you can see how it is attached to the hood, but I would like to use my Beamswork light, which is much wider and does not come with anything for me to secure it under the aquarium hood. I tried using outdoor double-sided tape, it's either I got a dud or because of the built-up moisture, the light bar eventually fell from the hood. I would like to keep the aquarium hood, so I can't use the extendable "arms" to "hug" both sides of the tank. I'd appreciate any creative and practical ideas.

Thank you!

 

 

PXL_20220331_180842342.jpg

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Edited by Tarazzl
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the heat is probably going to soften the adhesive long term.  If it were me I'd carefully drill a hole near the edge of the aluminum light enclosure.  You can then either tap or use self taping screws to screw the lid into the top.

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On 3/31/2022 at 1:07 PM, Patrick_G said:

I wonder if gel superglue would work? 

There is a variety of "plastic adhesive" that would work and should bond the plastics to one another. That being said..... I worry about the chemicals added to the tank and long term viability given how wet that atmosphere is going to be.

There might be some heat dissipation requirements to make sure the light doesn't melt the plastic.

I would just use silicone on each end of the light. Easy to remove it if you need be and that light won't go anywhere, also gives you the ability to have an air gap if need be. (apply a dot of silicone and let it dry, similar to a bump on, and then put the light on place and use the silicone as needed to attach the light like it's hot glue)

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On 3/31/2022 at 5:24 PM, CT_ said:

the heat is probably going to soften the adhesive long term.  If it were me I'd carefully drill a hole near the edge of the aluminum light enclosure.  You can then either tap or use self taping screws to screw the lid into the top.

I absolutely did not think of the heat factor! That is a good point! I will take the aquarium lid off and check it out. Thank you so much!

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On 3/31/2022 at 5:40 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

There is a variety of "plastic adhesive" that would work and should bond the plastics to one another. That being said..... I worry about the chemicals added to the tank and long term viability given how wet that atmosphere is going to be.

There might be some heat dissipation requirements to make sure the light doesn't melt the plastic.

I would just use silicone on each end of the light. Easy to remove it if you need be and that light won't go anywhere, also gives you the ability to have an air gap if need be. (apply a dot of silicone and let it dry, similar to a bump on, and then put the light on place and use the silicone as needed to attach the light like it's hot glue)

Considering silicone is widely used for fish tanks, it is a safe option. I happen to have a tube for shower/bathtub purposes, so I will definitely give it a try before drilling holes. Thank you very much for your input!

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On 3/31/2022 at 1:14 PM, Tarazzl said:

It's good idea. Is there any recommended brand? I asked because I got the Gorilla double-sided tape last time, and it failed. 

Superglue and silicone have a very high heat deflection temperature. I’d try the silicone first because it’ll be easy to remove if it doesn’t work. I’m in the marine trades and we use a lot of different adhesives for different surfaces. Silicone is the weakest, but the easiest to remove. 

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I haven't used the beamswork light specifically, but I have cooked other lights by putting them inside aquariums (and other enclosed spaces). It looks like it has an aluminum casing so if its using that as a heat sink, adhering it to plastic lid will insulate it and hurt some heat transfer.  I would check operating temperature in open air and then once you mount in under the hood to make sure you're not causing yourself problems. 

I would also be concerned about how waterproof that light is.  It may not work well in that high humidity.

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On 3/31/2022 at 5:27 PM, MarkM said:

I haven't used the beamswork light specifically, but I have cooked other lights by putting them inside aquariums (and other enclosed spaces). It looks like it has an aluminum casing so if its using that as a heat sink, adhering it to plastic lid will insulate it and hurt some heat transfer.  I would check operating temperature in open air and then once you mount in under the hood to make sure you're not causing yourself problems. 

I would also be concerned about how waterproof that light is.  It may not work well in that high humidity.

This is going to be the big thing. I would slant towards having a glass top if you can find one from the vendor who made your tank or have one made for your tank.  It's totally worth it if you can find one.

this one *might* work.  Aqueon is good about releasing dimension sheets.
https://www.petswarehouse.com/aqueon-versa-top-36-gallon-bow-front-29-3-wide/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpuvzzpfy9gIVXwytBh3sLgS_EAQYASABEgKtI_D_BwE

Edited by nabokovfan87
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This light will fail and the warranty won’t cover it. It is not totally v sealed and will get water in it and fail. I know tha many people don’t like to see the light but I would put a clear top and have the light sit as close the the to as you can. I use Lexan fuck cories talked about our products that have higher par rates. Almost any light is going to fail quickly put in a steam bath 

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On 3/31/2022 at 5:48 PM, Patrick_G said:

Superglue and silicone have a very high heat deflection temperature. I’d try the silicone first because it’ll be easy to remove if it doesn’t work. I’m in the marine trades and we use a lot of different adhesives for different surfaces. Silicone is the weakest, but the easiest to remove. 

Thank you, I will definitely give it a try!

On 3/31/2022 at 8:27 PM, MarkM said:

I haven't used the beamswork light specifically, but I have cooked other lights by putting them inside aquariums (and other enclosed spaces). It looks like it has an aluminum casing so if its using that as a heat sink, adhering it to plastic lid will insulate it and hurt some heat transfer.  I would check operating temperature in open air and then once you mount in under the hood to make sure you're not causing yourself problems. 

I would also be concerned about how waterproof that light is.  It may not work well in that high humidity.

Thank you for sharing your thoughtful consideration. I have not checked the operating temp, I will definitely do so. 

On 4/1/2022 at 1:56 AM, nabokovfan87 said:

This is going to be the big thing. I would slant towards having a glass top if you can find one from the vendor who made your tank or have one made for your tank.  It's totally worth it if you can find one.

this one *might* work.  Aqueon is good about releasing dimension sheets.
https://www.petswarehouse.com/aqueon-versa-top-36-gallon-bow-front-29-3-wide/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpuvzzpfy9gIVXwytBh3sLgS_EAQYASABEgKtI_D_BwE

Thank you so much for your detailed info! I think I will play around with my plastic lid knowing that there are glass lids out there if I mess up. lol...

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On 4/1/2022 at 9:28 AM, Brandon p said:

This light will fail and the warranty won’t cover it. It is not totally v sealed and will get water in it and fail. I know tha many people don’t like to see the light but I would put a clear top and have the light sit as close the the to as you can. I use Lexan fuck cories talked about our products that have higher par rates. Almost any light is going to fail quickly put in a steam bath 

THANK YOU for letting me know about the Lexan! I have been wondering what they are called!!! Now I found it!! I will definitely get it for my holding tank, and see how that works out. 

I do worry that because of the constant moisture, the life of the lights will be shortened. I have to put this into my consideration.

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