Mmiller2001

Just do a bit of review research to make sure they don't have problems and people are happy with them. If the older one is decently cheaper, consider them as well. I couldn't be happier with these.

I probably will after I get the value out of these first. I'm incredibly happy with them and they are relatively new. I imagine I will have them for many years coming. When they do need to be replaced, the pro will be on my list.

Thank you. You seem to be all over the place on nutrients. Look up Estimative Index dosing. I would start there. You will need specific nutrients but luckily they are dirt cheap. If you are looking to keep a better than average planted tank, you absolutely have to understand what you are dosing and why. And you need to learn our language spoken in ppm and degrees. I would look up Tom Barr Estimative Index dosing. I can almost guarantee that you are low on CO2. You will need a better method for measuring it. I don't use them as they are limited, but a drop checker is probably better than that test kit. A GH 18 is very high for plants. You will be on an up hill struggle even if you get everything else right. It is possible at 18dGH, but lower GH will be better with quicker results. Plants love stability. Constantly changing, fluctuating CO2 and inconsistent water changes disrupts stability. Here's a link that really helped me. I would read everything here. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/fertilize-planted-tank

What are you dosing in ppm? How are you measuring CO2? What's your GH and KH?

I'm just saying that water changes, made to match parameters of the outgoing water, doesn't harm fish in any way. Add to that, the reduction of organics, replacement of macro and Micro elements is an overall good thing for plant and fish health. I also believe going to no water changes, Diana's method, is an excellent way to go as well. Personally, it just seems easier to clean such a large tank when the water is reduced by half. Also, water changes are way cheaper than spending a lot of money on cleanup crews and testing if doing small or no water changes 😁.

Interesting, river fish get 100% water changes every few minutes. I'd imagine many breeders are using tap water with parameters not native to many of their fish. Here I agree it weakens fish. I will fall back to knowing your source water.

Don't hide it, just add could be. Research has shown even higher on Nitrates, I'm referencing lower numbers do to potential algae issues. It's just not necessary to be so high especially when not injecting CO2. I kind of fall into, "just because you can, should you." I've also found, while trying varying approaches to fertilizing, that leaner run tanks do a bit better. That said, others run full EI dosing and do quite well.

Careful here, as this is completely untrue. I and many others are doing 90% water changes weekly. Large water changes is a benefit to a planted tank and in fact keeps a more stable tank. If you look at the top AGA tanks, those are probably getting 90% changes 3 times a week. You just have to know your source water. Also, 20 to 40ppm NO3 on a non CO2 injected tank is too high. I would aim for 12 to 18ppm NO3 as proxy. Fertilization is more than just NO3. Make sure your are dosing comprehensively. I would go 50% per week. Just do yourself a favor and learn how to make these water changes not so much work. I.E. using water storage and pumps.

Interesting. I honestly have no idea how long they can go without circulation. One theory I don't want to test 😁. But seemingly, at least 7 hours wasn't long enough!

I was most worried about loosing my cycle. Both tanks have decent stocking.

Yes, just give it a quick rinse first.

I would use an aqua soil over dirt. Way less mess. Look into Landen Aqua soil.

Everything looks okay. Hat off to the wifey who, on 2 hours of sleep, continuously agitated the tanks by hand.

If I just wanted a decent light to grow most plants, I would go with this one. I would start with one light and if you wanted to try more 'High Light" plants, get 2. https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Aquarium-Automatic-Aluminum-ALC-12/dp/B0812MYYS3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14GQ5AXA33K9S&keywords=finnex%2Bplanted%2Bplus%2B24%2B7&qid=1660054145&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=finnex%2Cpets%2C171&sr=1-2&th=1

It also raises your GH. I would recommend not using wonder shell or crushed coral. Both of these option raise GH and KH. GH is rising do to continuous calcium addition. GH is both calcium and magnesium and when you start raising a single component, you then are throwing off important ratios. Ratios matter, probably more so than others when it comes to GH. I don't want to get too long winded, but the best way to raise KH is to add a carbonate or bicarbonate. If your GH is at a level you want, why raise it more with crushed coral? I like using potassium carbonate, it's dirt cheap and easily calculated. If you want a 3dKH tank, you will add an amount that will raise KH to 3dKH. There's no mystery or guessing. It also adds potassium to the water which will benefit plants. Many "All in One" fertilizers are low in K and additional K can help in many instances. https://www.amazon.com/CellarScience-AD640LB-Potassium-Carbonate-lb/dp/B074D9BXRT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2QJE3Q3GPXIPH&keywords=potassium+carbonate&qid=1660053103&sprefix=potassium+carbonate%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-5

Stability is key, and a cycled tank is more stable.

Yes is the best option. If no, then be prepared to do ongoing water changes.

Eheim AEH2262380 Filter for Model 2262-38 with Valves for Aquarium https://a.co/d/1Suk5oJ I'd probably run 2 of these.

I know I've been real quite recently, and I apologize. But I must mention my power was out for nearly 7 hours today. I fear my competition tank may be ruined. Fingers crossed. I have been just 3 weeks away from photos and submission.

You won't be disappointed.

It is, great stuff.

You will want to test the GH and KH of your source water, then cut with distilled at the proportion it would take to achieve your desired numbers. Example, tap is 5dGH and 5dKH. A 50 50 mix would be then 2.5dGH and 2.5dKH. If a parameter is lower after mixing, then you would mineralize the water. So if the above GH from tap was 2dGH, 1dGH after mixing, you would need to add some Ca, Mg back in.

If interested, you can get it here. https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/potassium-sulfate-k2so4-1lb-bag.html

Potassium sulfate (K2SO4). Dry powder.

I killed about 30 fish at once when I started. Trust me, we all started at the beginning 😁.