laritheloud

I'm so sorry!!! ONE of my adult rabbits did survive the treatment, so hope isn't completely lost -- but my stats were really rough. They might not move again, or they might suddenly rejuvenate and go back to it in about a week.

This is the best photo I could take of it. Slight pinprick Aha here’s another

I’ve been watching for Popeye and don’t think it is yet. I’m not seeing swelling or off behavior, but betta eyes are also a little bulgier than other fish eyes in general. Fingers crossed…

Not old at all! I just purchased him in December and he was shipped to me at the beginning of the month. He’s in a ten gallon and this is technically the hot spot quarantine time — but I’ve been observing closely and choosing not to prophylactically medicate unless I see something. Nothing in the fishes’ behavior or appetite is alarming to me, I’m just seeing a little bit of cloudy film on his eyes. He might be bumping his feeding ring? He jumps for his food to my fingers and I feed him one pellet at a time because he’s slow.

Hi everyone! I am noticing a little bit of gray cloudiness at the high point of my betta’s eyes and I want to try adding a little aquarium salt to his tank before moving to an antibiotic. He has a little bit of scraped/loose scale near his left eye, too. His appetite is good and he greets me at the tank but he is slow to find his food and I’m not sure if he’s naturally slow or can’t see. He is not flashing and showing no other alarming symptoms. the issue is I have kuhli loaches cohabitating with him. Is there a safe level of salt to add to a tank with kuhlis? What’s an alternative I can try? water parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate around 20 ppm. Temp is 79 degrees but the heater struggles in the cold so it reaches 77 to 78. He doesn’t act like he’s sick but I’d like to prevent worsening if possible. I tried to take pics but it doesn’t show up well on pics. thanks!

If you can source them, you can look around for trichopsis vittata. They're maybe a little bit bigger than honeys (2.5 inches), and bigger than sparkling gouramis with a similar look. They're also called Croaking Gouramis.

Perfect! Sparklers or honeys would do very well in a 15. Good luck!

I doubt the plants are related. Poor guy. I hope he improves, I love these fish so much!

Gosh, this is tough and I faced the same conundrum. In all likelihood I don't think your mystery snail will survive the treatment. Most of my larger 'fancy' snails passed away during the treatment process. Only one of my rabbit snails (the smallest adult) and all of my baby rabbit snails, along with my nerites, survived. Mystery snails and their relatives don't appear to be built to withstand levamisole treatment. There doesn't appear to be a consensus that mystery snails can act as a host for camallanus. I don't know how much risk there is in keeping them separate for up to 2 months and then moving them back, because I can't find controlled experiments that prove whether or not mysteries carry and transmit this parasite. I wish I could help you more, but I think it's up to you to decide how to proceed. 😞 Knowing what I do now, I'd probably move them out of the tank for treatment.

This is a sweet thicklipped gourami (trichogaster labiosa) and the poor guy does not look good at all. You need stronger antibiotics to help him, though, unless it's viral (which is could be if he shared a tank with true Dwarf Gouramis in the shop. How long have you had him?). Melafix isn't going to cut it. I'm so sorry, it looks so painful 😞

Agree with @JettsPapa, can't recommend Dwarf Gouramis. Aggression and weak genetics make them a huge no in my book. Honey Gouramis are definitely social, and you can squeeze in two to three of them in a 15 gallon. If you're looking for only one, you could instead try a Thicklipped Gourami (Trichogaster Labiosa, sometime sold as Sunset Gouramis/Red Honey Gouramis, look up pictures so you know what to look for at the store). You would only be able to fit one thicklipped in your fifteen gallon tank. They definitely enjoy having a group, but you can probably get away with a singleton if he or she has other fish to observe in the tank. They're highly interactive fish that grow to about 3.5 inches. I'm able to feed mine pellets from my hands, and they're always pecking and poking at me whenever I clean their tank. EDIT to add: Depending on your parameters you can also look into Samurai or Chocolate Gouramis. These are much more sensitive species and need acidic water to thrive.

I use Wondershells to remineralize my low-GH high-KH water and it works well for me. I use 1 of the smallest size shells in my 10 gallon tanks at a time (replace once fully dissolved and after a water change), 1 of the medium sized shells in my 29 gallon tank, and 1 of the large sized shells in my 55 gallon. This has consistently maintained a GH of around 7 to 8 in my tanks. Start conservatively and see what it does for your water and DO NOT follow the package instructions.

Such an adorable little gecko! I love this!!! I'm starting with an 18 x 18 x 24 enclosure for one gecko, and I have some containers 5 to 10 gallon containers I can use for quarantine to observe behavior and get him/her vet-checked. The vivarium will be bioactive/planted, and quarantine will have fake plants, hides, and paper towels for a 'substrate.' I'm not sure how long I should keep a gecko in quarantine when it'll be my first. I see everything from 1 to 6 months. I'm pretty inexperienced so I was hoping to leave it at 1 month with a vet check. For purchasing a lizard, I'm thinking about a $100-$300 pet. It doesn't need to be the fanciest colorway, but from what I'm seeing on morph market, this isn't unreasonable for some really sweet and pretty animals. Enclosure and food costs, I'll pay what I need to give them a good habitat. I'm fortunate that we're not on a tight budget, and I want to give my pets the best we can provide. I am not planning on an auto-misting system yet and will make do with a water bottle, but I also live in a pretty humid region, especially in the summertime. I did find a local hobbyist crested gecko breeder and a gargoyle gecko breeder in about 30 minutes from my home, but if you have any reputable suggestions, please DM me! For bugs, I'd probably prefer to feed worms and larvae over crickets, but I'm flexible. My son is super fearless when it comes to bugs and he'd be happy to feed a gecko whatever bugs they need. I've been doing a lot of research this weekend, that's for sure!

Lucens. Parva is smaller!

I'd keep an eye on them. Sometimes rainbows can be less robust, depending on source and breeding, especially the smaller species. Good luck!

Giant Day Geckos are GORGEOUS! I quickly removed them from my list, though, because they are not handleable (they will run away and you'll never see them again). Anoles are still on my list, and I'll have to research what those other species require. I have my vivarium and some quarantine kritter keepers on the way to me now, and I'll probably dial in humidity and temp while I plant it up before getting anything. We are very excited!

If you did not add an ammonia source after adding quickstart and continue adding an ammonia source daily, that isn't cycling your tank, unfortunately. So you're starting from scratch. You can add bottled bacteria to try and help this along!

That sounds like it might be an acclimation issue. When did you add them to the tank? Did you add them while CO2 was off and the lights were off? How did you acclimate them? Did you quarantine your threadfins? I don't want to be alarmist, but I did have a few pseudomugil rainbows that did this upon adding them to my tank, and it turned out that they were weak fish and ended up getting very sick a couple months down the road. If you did not quarantine your fish, keep an eye on them; if you can quarantine them, I'd move them to a separate tank without CO2 and observe.

What was your cycling process without fish, if I may ask? We can help you troubleshoot what went wrong. Daily water changes and using Seachem Prime will help the most throughout your cycling, just keep being diligent. EDIT to add: This tank is pretty heavily stocked, too. 5 pea puffers is a lot for 15 gallons along with the other fish on your list.

Are the sharp-shinned hawks the very small species? We once had a very, very small hawk (like maybe a a jay or a crow, if that) show up in our driveway, once. If it's a bigger species I'd lean Cooper's.

My family and I find the insects a draw (worms moreso than crickets). 🤣 I've heard mixed things about gargoyles, though -- some like more insects and some want nothing to do with them and eat just the crested gecko diet. We'll see what we end up with! We have time, though. I'm setting up XL Kritter Keepers as a quarantine and a nice 18 x 18 x 24 for the permanent bioactive vivarium.

So glad he's doing better! Best of luck to you both. He's so beautiful!

I love reptiles and never kept one, but I'm starting on a journey to create a bioactive setup for a crested or gargoyle gecko. 🙂 Been researching the heck out of it!

Kuhlis are the silliest and I love them so much. 😝 as long as you make sure they're not in there when you pull it out, I'm sure it's fine. They're little noodle worms!

It's extremely difficult to sex honey gouramis by fin shape. Female honey gouramis (even mine) have almost identical dorsal and anal fin shapes to the males; the difference is extremely subtle and can only be seen when they swim side-by-side, and even then, that can be chalked up to normal variation and not necessarily purely to sex of the fish. Source: I have both wild-type and gold-type honey gouramis and the shape of the fins are the same in both my females and my dominant/subdominant male. EDIT to add: Gold-type honey gouramis can, actually, be sexed by color. Wild types are harder. Picture proof, gold-type female: Gold-type male: Wild-type female: Wild-Type Subdominant Male: