1moretank
-
Posts
80 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by 1moretank
-
-
Sorry about your loss. Sometimes no matter what we do, our pets die.
Your set up sounds good. I can't be certain, because I keep a 10 gallon QT tank set up all the time. It has rams horn snails and a few cherry shrimp in it all the time. I usually leave a guppy in it when its not in use, just so I stay good about feeding it lightly - I usually feed before and after a med treatment. I keep an air stone and hornwort in it instead of a sponge filter.-
1
-
-
@Brainsponge Have you considered the biggest rubbermaid type stock tank outside with 1 or 2 100 watt heaters in it set to 60 - so they only kick on if your outside temp drops too low? My pond gold fish come in every winter when the water temp gets down near 60, and they live in a 100 gallon plastic stock tank in a back room that isn't directly heated (barely warmer than a garage). My stock tank is full of Val (in and out of little planters), and the fish are from 2 to about 7 inches in size. I have more than 3.
Good luck with whatever you decide on.
-
1
-
-
On 11/25/2022 at 9:17 PM, smm333 said:
I just bought 4 platies and I have them in quarantine with medication to treat any possible issues. I'm super nervous because this is the most vulnerable time. Fingers crossed for healthy fish who can join my community tank in 4-6 weeks!
Good luck. The waiting is so hard, but it is always worth it to do it right. I heard Cory, on a live stream (I think), say that the length of the quarantine could be tied to the value you place on your display tank. If it is empty - you could QT in the display, but if you have fish you value, QT separate until you are sure they won't bring anything to your existing fish. The more fish I have, the longer I QT, this hobby is building my patience. 😇
-
@BBlue is there any way you can set the current bowl inside the 10 gallon tank and then add water until the 10 gallon is full?
That would allow the temperature to even out and make the change less stressful.
Once the waters were the same temp, you could just tip the bowl until the fish could swim out.
That would prevent the stress of netting him and it would also let you have he benefit of all the beneficial bacteria currently in his bowl.Good luck.
-
1
-
-
@RichNJ I have A 55 loaded with bristlenose and endlers. The bristlenose breed regularly. Endlers worse. I have 3 dwarf african frogs and almost perfect population control. Never see or find bodies, and there are always babies, but not too many babies. There are days my frogs are so fat I think they might explode, the rest of the time they are normal sized. The fat seems to follow baby plecos coming out of the cave.
All that to say I love frogs for population control and they are truly fun to watch.Good luck.
-
1
-
-
@Wet Elbows I have 4 that are more than 3 years old. They will eat food, go chew and pull on my plants, then go back and eat more food. They go after val, amazon swords, crypts and anubias equally - don't seem to have any preference. They are definitely not doing it because they are hungry. They tug on anubias hard enough to pull them off the wood and rocks I've glued them to.
If I was going to put them in a planted tank again, I would make sure the plants were really grown in first.
Good luck.-
1
-
-
@Native Keeper I keep my goldfish and some danios in a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank over the winter and put them out in a pond in the summer. In the house I have 2 4 foot super cheap old shoplights hung over it. On the back side the light is about 8 inches below the ceiling - way above the tank. On the front side the light hangs about 2 feet above the tank. I grow val on one end - it grows on both sides of the tank no problem; and I have pond plants on rock risers - on the other end, they seem to grow toward the lower light a bit, but not much. This set up has been working for 2 full years, and made 2 baby danios last summer when the fish went outside.
Have fun and good luck with the decision you make.
-
On 3/6/2022 at 10:47 AM, Brandon p said:
I have a question? Most of you that have answered this thread I have interacted with at some point of time. Most of know that there are many ways to do things and some work for some and others don’t and we take what works and use it for outseleves and pass it on. We also know that there are facts that don’t change and I’m going to be over the top” most fish need to live in water” I was away from the forum for a short bit an saw two facts that were being told to members as facts that were false. I didn’t make a big deal a moved on. Should we just move or make a bigger deal when false facts are presented as true. One Cory had already giving his two cents. I personally am going to move on because there is so much good information that is available. I just feel bad for new fish keeps that get bad info or information that is so complicated that it is almost impossible to follow. I love this group and don’t want to bring negativity I was just wondering how you would handle is and if I should continue to do as I am
@Brandon p In situations like what you describe, my choice is to say "in my experience, this is what I have had happen". I like to think that the person providing bad info is trying to do their best, and anyone that spends 30 minutes reading this forum for their own topic should be able to sift thru to the best information for themselves.
-
6
-
-
@Scapexghost the key is to use super glue GEL, not liquid, and that the ingredient is cyanocrylate. Then I have never seen a side effect from putting glue on plant, plant on item, sticking into tank - I think the explanation was that the water activates and speeds up the glue gel setting.
Good luck.
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 3/3/2022 at 1:53 PM, Biotope Biologist said:
They are the cutest ugliest things you’ll ever lay your eyes on. Most species max out at 2-4 cm!
picture credit: planet catfish
I have 2, they are more than 3 years old, the smallest is about 3 inches long. The largest is about 6 inches - at least as broad and long as a full grown bristlenose pleco. I was told once I put them in my tank I would probably never see them again. Truth is they appear on occasion but usually you can't find them. They bury themselves in the gravel - which is really cool to watch if you ever get to see it. When you do see them, you'll think they are dead because you almost never actually see them move - they lay very still on the plants. Super cool, but not a fish you are gong to sit and watch swim.
@BenA have you looked at Panda Garra? They are super active interesting fish. I highly recommend them for a fish to enjoy watching.
-
@Cinnebuns Sounds unlikely, give it a good clean, test it for leaks, let it air dry. Then fill it and let it run, you can test for ammonia with test strips.
Good luck-
1
-
-
Definitely, you can, no filter needed.
-
On 3/2/2022 at 3:50 PM, Gideyon said:
So I'm getting close to the stage of getting my first plants. From everyone's feedback, it seems obvious that the rooted plants will do just fine in gravel. But one thing I just don't know and I can't find online....
How do I plant it? Every time I see a video of someone planting, they're using some kind of forceps and pushing it into sand, soil or some kind of plant substrate. But that won't work with gravel, and I don't have those kinds of tools.
Do I just use my fingers and make a small crater, put the plant in, then move the gravel back into the crater?
You can use forceps to plant in gravel, sand or dirt, you can use the finger & crater method you described, you can use 1-2 drops of super glue gel to attach a small rock to the plant root to weight it, then just carefully drop it on top the gravel or soil. If the plant comes in a small planter in rock wool you can just drop the plant -container-rock wool into your tank. As you practice and experiment you will find different things work better for different plants.
My experience, using mostly pea gravel and larger gravel (1-inch) for substrate is that val, amazon swords and crypts with good root systems are easiest to push in, then drag a bit, with or without tweezers, because that helps spread out the root system under the substrate. Anubias works best with a few roots (not rhizome) pinched between rocks or buried under the gravel, or glued to a rock or piece of wood (cholla wood will almost dissolve out from under the plant leaving it kind of floating but anchored. Swords or crypts with almost no root system work best with a small rock glued to the side of the root/stem spot then set on top the gravel - roots grow faster and grow down into the gravel to anchor it and you don't risk the plant getting buried too deep and rotting.
Most important is to do what is easiest for you, experiment and have fun.Good luck.
-
2
-
-
If your tank is shallow (10 or 29 gallon) try putting an algae wafer in a cup (I like the size betta are sold in). Lower it in the tank and wait 5-10 minutes, guppies go for the wafers every time in my experience. Then lift the cup out and use your fingers to return any you did not want to catch back into the tank.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
@Ponyoryx When I moved my fish 4 states away from very soft to fairly hard water, I bought 20 5 gallon buckets and lids at the new place. I had someone fill all of them and set them where the tanks were going to Then I put a bunch of my old tank water in 5 gallon buckets and drove it with everything else to the new place. I set up tanks, filled to about 1/3 with old water and mixed in the new water. Out of 6-7 tanks full of fish, I lost no fish on arrival, and only 1-2 older fish in the following months.
Good luck with your move.
-
1
-
-
@Cinnebuns floating plants that feel "fuzzy" to the touch do not appreciate having moisture on the top sides of their leaves. Good luck.
-
Hello, I think you might be stopping the cycle with your water changes. Instead, may I suggest that you stop changing water twice a week - instead wait a week after you dose Easy Green, and then test your water. Only do a water change if the Nitrates are over 40. If they are less - no water change. Then dose fertilizer again - wait a week and test again. Only change water if Nitrates are over 40.
When you need to change water, only change 25% and then re-test to see what the Nitrates are. If still above 40, you can change 25% a 2nd time.
If you want to speed everything up, you might try "ghost feeding" your tank a very small amount of fish food each day, as if you had one guppy in there.Good luck, and keep us updated on your progress.
-
5
-
-
On 1/26/2022 at 8:17 AM, Bettakeeper86 said:
I am trying to put together a shopping list and would like to know what my best options would be in regards to the aquarium co-op nets. I am building an out door fish room with a 110 gallon pond ( moderate to heavy planted), a 20 long quarantine tank, a 20 long breeding tank ( moderate planted), two 10 gal grow out tanks, and two 5 gal tanks. I plan on keeping bristle nose plecos, corydoras, guppies, rosy red minnows, and cherry shrimp. I know that there are many factors that are involve such as fish size, tank size, volumes of plants, and I am a little lost on which nests might be best. Also would the nano net work for brine shrimp?
My experience has been that plecos get caught in nets - not fun. For baby plecos I use an old betta cup to catch them. For big plecos, I try to pick them up when they are in a cave, or I use a plastic cup about the size of a 32 oz jar, but with a more straight neck (one from a gas station soda is a good size). These aren't traditional shopping list items, but I find them invaluable. For nets, I like one about 3 x 4 and a small one. I've never had reason to use a really big one because I don't sell my fish.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
On 1/24/2022 at 2:50 PM, Troy328 said:
Thanks for the info! I like to know how other people go about these types of things.
Another quick question: If quarantining for a week or longer, when do you begin feeding the fish in quarantine? I know fish can go a good while without food, but if I end up quarantining these guys for let's say two weeks, when should I give them their first pinch of food? Should I feed them during the med trio?
I put new fish into QT and observe and feed for 1-3 days, if they are fish that I generally have issues with (like cories) or that I haven't had before, I dose the med trio one a week until I've done all 3 - no water change. If they are fish I know, then I dose all 3 meds at the same time. During QT I usually feed lightly once a week - usually 2-3 days after dosing until QT is complete. After all treatments are complete, I usually leave all fish in QT until I want to get new fish or I am tired of taking care of the extra tank.
Good luck
-
If one has a planted tank that is mostly balanced, will adding pothos or mangroves or other heavy feeders hurt the tank or will it just require heavier fertilizer dosing?
-
1
-
-
@msapphire012 I have not had the experience you describe. Recently my only local fish store is a PetSmart and the cories from there are often healthy looking but don't make it though all 3 meds at once. I attribute this to them not being extra healthy. I am writing because I have found that If I do the meds one at a time as Cory suggests "if you aren't in a hurry" and as you seem to be trying now, I have much better success with the PetSmart cories and have even had one accidental baby. I hope your one-at-a-time quarantine will be successful.
Good luck.
-
1
-
1
-
-
I agree with @Streetwise and @eatyourpeas. I nearly always put new plants direct from the shipping bag into my QT tank (if it doesn't have salt in it) or in a 5 gallon bucket full of tap water and leave it setting in my kitchen floor. Have never experienced a problem from the rock wool or had an ammonia spike. I can't even think of a way that plants could cause an ammonia spike just by being new.
They should be just fine in your tank until you are ready to plant.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
@juneaugoalie More information will help others help you. Octopus is a plant that grow very fast & uses a lot of fertilizer. One possibility is that your newer, less established plants may be starving out. Please include your tank size, lighting, fertilizers you are using, tank stocking, water change schedule, and tank parameters.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
@gerbilfood You are thinking right that your rooted plants can benefit from Easy Green. As others stated above, the rooted plants might not be getting any fertilizer because floating plants are more efficient at using it. You can test your water to determine if there is any fertilizer in the water a couple days after fertilizing.
You are also correct that the rooted plants would benefit from root tabs. Please do a lot of your own research before making your own, as most of the components for DIY root tabs have ammonia which is toxic to fish. Easy Root Tabs do not have ammonia in a toxic form.
Good luck, and do keep us updated.
-
2
-
40 gallon community tank planning
in General Discussion
Posted
Welcome to fish keeping.
I don't think shrimp are necessarily harder than fish or that they make fish keeping more difficult. I think they are a wonderful part of a community tank.
However, I think shrimp need a much more established tank than most fish do. Since they essentially "nibble" all day on the things in our tank, a newly set up tank may not have what they need. They also need more hiding spots and cover than most fish do, so as your plants grow and your tank becomes more established keeping shrimp will become easier.
Wonderful that you are thinking it all out in advance - good luck and enjoy!