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New 125 (80) nitrates


TonyRs5
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I recently went from a 55 to a 125, I was able to use most of the old water and media from the 55, new substrate.  It has been three weeks, I have about 15-20 fish, community and a few plants.  I have a few root tabs if that makes a difference, the issue is I can't get my nitrates below 80, I was going to to a 50% water change, any other suggestions.  FYI, Ammonia is very low, almost 0 at last measurement, I would like to add more fish. Thanks.

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On 3/1/2022 at 10:06 AM, TonyRs5 said:

I recently went from a 55 to a 125, I was able to use most of the old water and media from the 55, new substrate.  It has been three weeks, I have about 15-20 fish, community and a few plants.  I have a few root tabs if that makes a difference, the issue is I can't get my nitrates below 80, I was going to to a 50% water change, any other suggestions.  FYI, Ammonia is very low, almost 0 at last measurement, I would like to add more fish. Thanks.

In my opinion, the easiest way to quickly lower nitrates would be to do a water change. For longer term solutions, having more plants will help, as will monitoring how much you are feeding.

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Thanks, I will look out for any other suggestions, however, I think you are correct as from what I read and can see after looking at the water change chart I will start with 50%.  I have never had a tank this large so definitely a learning curve and I probably have beginners luck as I have only lost a few fish.

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In my experience, a water change of more than 50% is not going to hurt fish. I have 2 tanks around 120 gallons and I never do a water change less than 50%. The same for my 20-gallon quarantine/grow-out tank which lately seems to be constantly occupied.

If your ammonia is not zero, I would not add more fish. Give the beneficial bacteria some time. In a mature tank with a mature filter, ammonia is zero.

Over-feeding is something I think we are all prone to. I combat that tendency by feeding once per day, measuring the food each time, and having one fasting day per week. 

 

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I think I will hold off on anymore root tabs post water change and also not add fish until stabilized.  Feeding is something I am working through as I try to make sure that my top fish (hatchets and lower fish, Khory and Loaches, get their share as everyone else fights for it in the middle.  Fasting a day is something I have read about, however, have not tried.

 

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On 3/1/2022 at 10:06 AM, TonyRs5 said:

I recently went from a 55 to a 125, I was able to use most of the old water and media from the 55, new substrate.  It has been three weeks, I have about 15-20 fish, community and a few plants.  I have a few root tabs if that makes a difference, the issue is I can't get my nitrates below 80, I was going to to a 50% water change, any other suggestions.  FYI, Ammonia is very low, almost 0 at last measurement, I would like to add more fish. Thanks.

80ppm nitrate is not a big deal. Also, change 50% water and you now have 40ppm. Magic! lol That is odd you used old water.

What did you do about filtration on the new tank? Did you add filter media from the old to the new? That would be good.

 

Edited by Wrencher_Scott
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Thanks, I was told that using the old water would help with the bacteria, I am not sure if it did, however, I didn't lose any fish so maybe I got lucky.  I did use the media from the old filter and I am using an FX6 and it seems to be working fine so far.  I will do the 50% change tomorrow and the strange thing is that my nitrates never seem to go above 80, they seem to hover there though I would like 40 going forward.

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On 3/2/2022 at 12:50 PM, TonyRs5 said:

Thanks, there are lots out there, are those the most accurate?  I have only ever used the strips.

I've compared the API liquid test kits to scientific grade test vials read with a spectrometer and they're surprisingly accurate. You do have to develop an eye for it but that's true of any color chart test.

The exceptions are the ammonia test kit reading below 0.25ppm looks the same as readings down to 0.05ppm and nitrate readings much above 20ppm mostly look the same. But those are true of all tests of the same type so that's not really a criticism.

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On 3/2/2022 at 2:30 PM, modified lung said:

I've compared the API liquid test kits to scientific grade test vials read with a spectrometer and they're surprisingly accurate. You do have to develop an eye for it but that's true of any color chart test.

The exceptions are the ammonia test kit reading below 0.25ppm looks the same as readings down to 0.05ppm and nitrate readings much above 20ppm mostly look the same. But those are true of all tests of the same type so that's not really a criticism.

question: on the API nitrate test.

The nitrate test doesn't turn red as it gets higher like about 40ppm or so???

I can't tell the difference between 10-20 but I have never left my tank very long to see if it goes reddish. I can see it if it's lower because the color is lighter. You know?

On 3/2/2022 at 9:33 AM, TonyRs5 said:

Thanks, I was told that using the old water would help with the bacteria, I am not sure if it did, however, I didn't lose any fish so maybe I got lucky.  I did use the media from the old filter and I am using an FX6 and it seems to be working fine so far.  I will do the 50% change tomorrow and the strange thing is that my nitrates never seem to go above 80, they seem to hover there though I would like 40 going forward.

That FX6 is good and large. 

there is very little benifitial bacteria in water, it's in the filter mostly and in the gravel some.

Remember as long as you didn't add fish your filter area is still good. So adding the old media to the FX6 is the perfect thing to do. Of course the water turnover is somewhat important to in that larger tank but that FX6 is big so no problem there.

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On 3/2/2022 at 8:57 PM, Wrencher_Scott said:

What do you use that you have to calibrate?

Take a known amount of 0 nitrate water and dose that water with fertilizer to a specific amount of NO3. Then test that water to see where your kit tests. Then remember the ofset if there is one. But honestly, it's always a "close enough" measure.

If you use Easy Green, here's a chart.

The larger the sample, the more accurate it should be.

Screenshot_20210510-144137.png

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